I dont build turbo's and never claimed i did. But I do work with bearings on a daily basis. And to much lubricant is a huge problem.
If you cant get enough lubricant then go throw 10qts of oil in your car.
Comming from the subaru community there are alot of restrictors used. We run almost 100PSI oil pressure at cruise.
I dont know anything about this particular turbo but I am guessing he needs a restrictor. Is it water cooled or just oil cooled? If it is only oil cooled there is a possibility the problem is the oil may be passing through the journal bearing to quik to absorb the heat. If thats the case it is gonna overheat very quikly. I could be totally wrong about this but this is my guess.
. Is it water cooled or just oil cooled? If it is only oil cooled there is a possibility the problem is the oil may be passing through the journal bearing to quik to absorb the heat. If thats the case it is gonna overheat very quikly. I could be totally wrong about this but this is my guess.
Wut wut wut?
Oil passing through too quickly to absorb the heat?
You are totally wrong is my guess.
Please go take a heat transfer class. The only thing I can think of is that you are somehow confusing oil cooling in a turbo with coolant in a radiator. Yes, in a radiator, you need a certain (low) flow rate to see adequate delta Ts. This is why you never completely remove a thermostat. When you do this the car overheats because the coolant passes through the radiator too quickly to achieve the required ~30 degree drop.
A radiator is you heat sink in this case. The case of the turbo is different. For oil in a turbo, the oil pan is the heat sink. You are cooling the turbo.
NO, that is not true. PSI doesnt mean flow, flow is what cools the bearings, mass flow of oil thru the bearings. PSI is pressure or amount of force the oil makes against some area, as I have stated before, in the honda world that I come from, most chinachargers lasted as long as the name brand turbos as long as they were properly restricted from too much pressure in the bearing. Good luck thought, it seems that this turbo is running dry and it may have damaged something inside. Time to test warranty, to be honest with u, most warranties fail, especially garrett.
Like a fellow member said somewhere:
"Garrett is so sure their turbos are excellent that if the turbo breaks, its YOUR fault"
Btw urabus, your over-lubrication premise only applies to bearings with rolling members, ie: ball-bearing turbos.
Journal bearing turbos (like OP's) are always sliding, and therefore can't fail due to overlubrication, which causes rolling parts to slide instead of roll, because well, they're already doing that inefficient rolling thing.
This is why you never completely remove a thermostat. When you do this the car overheats because the coolant passes through the radiator too quickly to achieve the required ~30 degree drop.
I havent taken heat transfer yet(Next fall), but I have taken thermostats out and the effect is exactly the opposite. Lower temp in the block, ECU adjust fuel to heat engine to proper temp, lower MPG.
While you are removing the same amount of heat over time, you are now averaging the coolant temp, instead of providing a sufficient delta T. This means that heat compounds in areas that were designed to receive coolant at a certain temp, and are now seeing something much hotter. The temperature gradient at these points is what matters to keeping an engine cool.
Without getting too technical because, well I cant,
A thermostat is basically at derivative of time with respect to temperature, when it sees a temperature, it opens up for some time and then closes when the temperature goes under a level. Given that idea, a lower temp thermostat is just a lower dF, a lower temperature difference will open it up. No thermostat should give u constant flow of cooler water into the block and therefore lower final temp.