ABSURDflow Turbo KLDE Mazda V6 Thread
#121
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a good percentage of the turbos i've sold with tial vband turbine housings attached have had the 6mm tial chra bolts loosen up resulting in a damaged turbine wheel and a ~$450 chra exchange bill.
Drilling the inconel chra bolts for safety wire, and actually using inconel safety wire, is required.
Drilling the inconel chra bolts for safety wire, and actually using inconel safety wire, is required.
#123
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Drilling them is a pain in the dick, yes. I charge $160 for the service, not including the price of the 6 bolts themselves, which is ~$80.
Hustler had some local wire EDM guy do his.
Hustler had some local wire EDM guy do his.
#129
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OK got the recommended info from Precision. Now help me feel better about my turbo decision:
What would you recommend for a streetable 18psi 93 octane 2.5l (not peak HP)? Assuming the same price:
1. Brand new Precision PT5858 CEA billet compressor wheel, dual ceramic ball bearing, ported T04S compressor cover, .86 a/r vband in/out single scroll turbine housing, one precision 46mm vband EWG. There's not much info on these cause they are new.
PT5858 T04S
2. Gently used Garrett GT3582R, ball bearing, twin scroll 1.06A/R T4 turbine, two tial MVS 38mm EWG
GT3582R T04S
Or for less than half the price of the above two:
3. New Borg Warner Airwerks S200sx 7670, 1.00a/r twin scroll, journal bearing, Tial MVS EWG
S200SX 7670
What would you recommend for a streetable 18psi 93 octane 2.5l (not peak HP)? Assuming the same price:
1. Brand new Precision PT5858 CEA billet compressor wheel, dual ceramic ball bearing, ported T04S compressor cover, .86 a/r vband in/out single scroll turbine housing, one precision 46mm vband EWG. There's not much info on these cause they are new.
PT5858 T04S
2. Gently used Garrett GT3582R, ball bearing, twin scroll 1.06A/R T4 turbine, two tial MVS 38mm EWG
GT3582R T04S
Or for less than half the price of the above two:
3. New Borg Warner Airwerks S200sx 7670, 1.00a/r twin scroll, journal bearing, Tial MVS EWG
S200SX 7670
#131
Ah yes, I've heard of the bolt issue with the tial housings.
I heard tial introduced new bolts for their housings to solve this problem sometime in 2011, no?
Funny enough, I ordered a new set of bolts for my tial housing from atp turbo mid-2011, and 2 out of the 6 came pre-drilled? Wonder if they're inconel or not.
I heard tial introduced new bolts for their housings to solve this problem sometime in 2011, no?
Funny enough, I ordered a new set of bolts for my tial housing from atp turbo mid-2011, and 2 out of the 6 came pre-drilled? Wonder if they're inconel or not.
#132
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/threadjack
#133
OK got the recommended info from Precision. Now help me feel better about my turbo decision:
What would you recommend for a streetable 18psi 93 octane 2.5l (not peak HP)? Assuming the same price:
1. Brand new Precision PT5858 CEA billet compressor wheel, dual ceramic ball bearing, ported T04S compressor cover, .86 a/r vband in/out single scroll turbine housing, one precision 46mm vband EWG. There's not much info on these cause they are new.
PT5858 T04S
2. Gently used Garrett GT3582R, ball bearing, twin scroll 1.06A/R T4 turbine, two tial MVS 38mm EWG
GT3582R T04S
Or for less than half the price of the above two:
3. New Borg Warner Airwerks S200sx 7670, 1.00a/r twin scroll, journal bearing, Tial MVS EWG
S200SX 7670
What would you recommend for a streetable 18psi 93 octane 2.5l (not peak HP)? Assuming the same price:
1. Brand new Precision PT5858 CEA billet compressor wheel, dual ceramic ball bearing, ported T04S compressor cover, .86 a/r vband in/out single scroll turbine housing, one precision 46mm vband EWG. There's not much info on these cause they are new.
PT5858 T04S
2. Gently used Garrett GT3582R, ball bearing, twin scroll 1.06A/R T4 turbine, two tial MVS 38mm EWG
GT3582R T04S
Or for less than half the price of the above two:
3. New Borg Warner Airwerks S200sx 7670, 1.00a/r twin scroll, journal bearing, Tial MVS EWG
S200SX 7670
#136
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Having programmed/operated an older waterjet for a few years, I'm not saying it can't be done but I would love to see a waterjet pierce a .062" hole thru .390 inconel consistently, quickly (affordably) and without making a mess. I'd predict the hole on the bottom side would be 'a lot' larger than .062. It'd probably work but look like poo-poo. Then again waterjet tech. has come a long way in the last decade.
From my experience:
1. they started with regular off the shelf 10mm hex stainless bolts
2. then went to a nickel-alloy ('inconel') 8mm hex bolt with a large washer face, predrilled for safety wire
3. then they removed the safety wire hole, keeping the 8mm and large washer face
4. then they went to a 10mm hex inconel, a basic copy of the original 10mm bolt.
And all the while the thread quality varied from ok to full-suck. The threads were rolled.
They did it because it cost a lot of money to do. I'm sure they didn't like changing out drill bits every other part. And I drilled your 10mm hex bolts for safety wire. I thought you drove around with no safety wire for a while...
Thank you for being the only reply that stayed with the thread topic and answered my question. Option 3 wouldn't be as 'baller' and require more EWG dump fabrication, unless I just VTA which is an idea...hmmmm
Ah yes, I've heard of the bolt issue with the tial housings.
I heard tial introduced new bolts for their housings to solve this problem sometime in 2011, no?
Funny enough, I ordered a new set of bolts for my tial housing from atp turbo mid-2011, and 2 out of the 6 came pre-drilled? Wonder if they're inconel or not.
I heard tial introduced new bolts for their housings to solve this problem sometime in 2011, no?
Funny enough, I ordered a new set of bolts for my tial housing from atp turbo mid-2011, and 2 out of the 6 came pre-drilled? Wonder if they're inconel or not.
1. they started with regular off the shelf 10mm hex stainless bolts
2. then went to a nickel-alloy ('inconel') 8mm hex bolt with a large washer face, predrilled for safety wire
3. then they removed the safety wire hole, keeping the 8mm and large washer face
4. then they went to a 10mm hex inconel, a basic copy of the original 10mm bolt.
And all the while the thread quality varied from ok to full-suck. The threads were rolled.
HAHAHAHAHA I have bolts from 2011 and they did not solve the problem. I just got done having my turbo safety wired after a CHRA exchange, because of bolt issues.
From what I have heard Tial drilled some Inconel bolts and then stopped doing it for whatever reason.
/threadjack
From what I have heard Tial drilled some Inconel bolts and then stopped doing it for whatever reason.
/threadjack
Thank you for being the only reply that stayed with the thread topic and answered my question. Option 3 wouldn't be as 'baller' and require more EWG dump fabrication, unless I just VTA which is an idea...hmmmm
Last edited by TurboTim; 01-10-2012 at 03:30 PM.
#139
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True.
Precision stuffs ordered. Cha-ching.
Going into work tomorrow to work on the adapters some. Called the block machinist to see what's up and he said it should be done tomorrow night, which means in another few months. Cylinder heads are...?
Crank balancer guy's last day at work was today so that turn around may take longer than planed too. Jesel is hiring a 5axis CNC programmer/machinist...
I have to disconnect the PPF from the trans & whatever wires are on top of the trans then I can yank the engine/trans out. The harborfreight engine crane doesn't seem long enough though. The jack hits the bumper before the hook is centered above the valvecover. Hmmm. I'll try it before trucking over my dad's old badass crane from the shop.
I think $5k for my entire drivetrain is good? I won't have the torsen out for another month or so though. 180, 175, 175, 170 compression cold/dry.
Precision stuffs ordered. Cha-ching.
Going into work tomorrow to work on the adapters some. Called the block machinist to see what's up and he said it should be done tomorrow night, which means in another few months. Cylinder heads are...?
Crank balancer guy's last day at work was today so that turn around may take longer than planed too. Jesel is hiring a 5axis CNC programmer/machinist...
I have to disconnect the PPF from the trans & whatever wires are on top of the trans then I can yank the engine/trans out. The harborfreight engine crane doesn't seem long enough though. The jack hits the bumper before the hook is centered above the valvecover. Hmmm. I'll try it before trucking over my dad's old badass crane from the shop.
I think $5k for my entire drivetrain is good? I won't have the torsen out for another month or so though. 180, 175, 175, 170 compression cold/dry.