Notices
DIY Turbo Discussion greddy on a 1.8? homebrew kit?

ABSURDflow Turbo KLDE Mazda V6 Thread

Old Jan 6, 2012 | 07:09 PM
  #121  
shuiend's Avatar
mkturbo.com
iTrader: (24)
 
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 15,235
Total Cats: 1,700
From: Charleston SC
Default

Originally Posted by turbotim
a good percentage of the turbos i've sold with tial vband turbine housings attached have had the 6mm tial chra bolts loosen up resulting in a damaged turbine wheel and a ~$450 chra exchange bill.

Drilling the inconel chra bolts for safety wire, and actually using inconel safety wire, is required.
ftfy
Old Jan 7, 2012 | 11:45 AM
  #122  
vehicular's Avatar
Elite Member
iTrader: (3)
 
Joined: Feb 2008
Posts: 1,855
Total Cats: 47
From: Huntsville, AL
Default

I imagine drilling those inconel bolts is a severe pain in the dick. Does anybody sell pre drilled bolts for reasonable money? Well, reasonable for inconel hardware, that is...
Old Jan 7, 2012 | 11:51 AM
  #123  
TurboTim's Avatar
Thread Starter
Elite Member
iTrader: (9)
 
Joined: Jun 2006
Posts: 7,033
Total Cats: 425
From: Chesterfield, NJ
Default

Drilling them is a pain in the dick, yes. I charge $160 for the service, not including the price of the 6 bolts themselves, which is ~$80.

Hustler had some local wire EDM guy do his.
Old Jan 7, 2012 | 05:46 PM
  #124  
triple88a's Avatar
Elite Member
iTrader: (2)
 
Joined: Apr 2006
Posts: 10,522
Total Cats: 1,830
From: Chicago, IL
Default

I wonder how electric discharge will work for the bolts? I've seen that process done....works amazing against hard steel.
Old Jan 7, 2012 | 08:09 PM
  #125  
TurboTim's Avatar
Thread Starter
Elite Member
iTrader: (9)
 
Joined: Jun 2006
Posts: 7,033
Total Cats: 425
From: Chesterfield, NJ
Default

Originally Posted by triple88a
I wonder how electric discharge will work for the bolts? I've seen that process done....works amazing against hard steel.
Originally Posted by TurboTim
Hustler had some local wire EDM guy do his.
Old Jan 7, 2012 | 08:10 PM
  #126  
TurboTim's Avatar
Thread Starter
Elite Member
iTrader: (9)
 
Joined: Jun 2006
Posts: 7,033
Total Cats: 425
From: Chesterfield, NJ
Default

Originally Posted by Faeflora
That borg turbo with 1.22 A/R FTMFW. Have less backpressure than me. Timing victory
You are running a S300, right?
Old Jan 7, 2012 | 09:41 PM
  #127  
triple88a's Avatar
Elite Member
iTrader: (2)
 
Joined: Apr 2006
Posts: 10,522
Total Cats: 1,830
From: Chicago, IL
Default

Originally Posted by TurboTim
LoL agreed had a noob moment there.
Old Jan 8, 2012 | 11:09 AM
  #128  
TurboTim's Avatar
Thread Starter
Elite Member
iTrader: (9)
 
Joined: Jun 2006
Posts: 7,033
Total Cats: 425
From: Chesterfield, NJ
Default

Nah, EDM is still the best way to drill the holes though.
Old Jan 10, 2012 | 12:35 PM
  #129  
TurboTim's Avatar
Thread Starter
Elite Member
iTrader: (9)
 
Joined: Jun 2006
Posts: 7,033
Total Cats: 425
From: Chesterfield, NJ
Default

OK got the recommended info from Precision. Now help me feel better about my turbo decision:

What would you recommend for a streetable 18psi 93 octane 2.5l (not peak HP)? Assuming the same price:
1. Brand new Precision PT5858 CEA billet compressor wheel, dual ceramic ball bearing, ported T04S compressor cover, .86 a/r vband in/out single scroll turbine housing, one precision 46mm vband EWG. There's not much info on these cause they are new.
PT5858 T04S

2. Gently used Garrett GT3582R, ball bearing, twin scroll 1.06A/R T4 turbine, two tial MVS 38mm EWG
GT3582R T04S

Or for less than half the price of the above two:
3. New Borg Warner Airwerks S200sx 7670, 1.00a/r twin scroll, journal bearing, Tial MVS EWG
S200SX 7670
Old Jan 10, 2012 | 01:09 PM
  #130  
jacob300zx's Avatar
Elite Member
 
Joined: Jul 2007
Posts: 3,207
Total Cats: 150
From: Houston, TX
Default

Waterjet is easier and cheaper for safety wire holes.
Old Jan 10, 2012 | 01:45 PM
  #131  
GT42R's Avatar
Junior Member
 
Joined: Aug 2008
Posts: 127
Total Cats: -1
From: Toronto, Canada
Default

Ah yes, I've heard of the bolt issue with the tial housings.

I heard tial introduced new bolts for their housings to solve this problem sometime in 2011, no?

Funny enough, I ordered a new set of bolts for my tial housing from atp turbo mid-2011, and 2 out of the 6 came pre-drilled? Wonder if they're inconel or not.
Reply
Leave a poscat -1 Leave a negcat
Old Jan 10, 2012 | 01:53 PM
  #132  
shuiend's Avatar
mkturbo.com
iTrader: (24)
 
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 15,235
Total Cats: 1,700
From: Charleston SC
Default

Originally Posted by GT42R
Ah yes, I've heard of the bolt issue with the tial housings.

I heard tial introduced new bolts for their housings to solve this problem sometime in 2011, no?
HAHAHAHAHA I have bolts from 2011 and they did not solve the problem. I just got done having my turbo safety wired after a CHRA exchange, because of bolt issues.

Originally Posted by GT42R
Funny enough, I ordered a new set of bolts for my tial housing from atp turbo mid-2011, and 2 out of the 6 came pre-drilled? Wonder if they're inconel or not.
From what I have heard Tial drilled some Inconel bolts and then stopped doing it for whatever reason.

/threadjack
Old Jan 10, 2012 | 02:19 PM
  #133  
Efini~FC3S's Avatar
Elite Member
iTrader: (4)
 
Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 3,317
Total Cats: 99
From: Charlotte, NC
Default

Originally Posted by TurboTim
OK got the recommended info from Precision. Now help me feel better about my turbo decision:

What would you recommend for a streetable 18psi 93 octane 2.5l (not peak HP)? Assuming the same price:
1. Brand new Precision PT5858 CEA billet compressor wheel, dual ceramic ball bearing, ported T04S compressor cover, .86 a/r vband in/out single scroll turbine housing, one precision 46mm vband EWG. There's not much info on these cause they are new.
PT5858 T04S

2. Gently used Garrett GT3582R, ball bearing, twin scroll 1.06A/R T4 turbine, two tial MVS 38mm EWG
GT3582R T04S

Or for less than half the price of the above two:
3. New Borg Warner Airwerks S200sx 7670, 1.00a/r twin scroll, journal bearing, Tial MVS EWG
S200SX 7670
New for 1/2 price, for a street car? I say option 3...
Old Jan 10, 2012 | 02:24 PM
  #134  
hustler's Avatar
Tour de Franzia
iTrader: (6)
 
Joined: Jun 2006
Posts: 29,085
Total Cats: 375
From: Republic of Dallas
Default

Originally Posted by shuiend
ftfy
I checked my turbo safety-wire on Friday, I think I put 10-weekends on the Inco wired Inco bolts and they were still tight.
Old Jan 10, 2012 | 02:38 PM
  #135  
Seefo's Avatar
Elite Member
iTrader: (5)
 
Joined: Dec 2010
Posts: 1,961
Total Cats: 48
From: Raleigh, NC
Default

Originally Posted by hustler
I checked my turbo safety-wire on Friday, I think I put 10-weekends on the Inco wired Inco bolts and they were still tight.
tite like a virgin? or just tite?
Old Jan 10, 2012 | 03:16 PM
  #136  
TurboTim's Avatar
Thread Starter
Elite Member
iTrader: (9)
 
Joined: Jun 2006
Posts: 7,033
Total Cats: 425
From: Chesterfield, NJ
Default

Originally Posted by jacob300zx
Waterjet is easier and cheaper for safety wire holes.
Having programmed/operated an older waterjet for a few years, I'm not saying it can't be done but I would love to see a waterjet pierce a .062" hole thru .390 inconel consistently, quickly (affordably) and without making a mess. I'd predict the hole on the bottom side would be 'a lot' larger than .062. It'd probably work but look like poo-poo. Then again waterjet tech. has come a long way in the last decade.


Originally Posted by GT42R
Ah yes, I've heard of the bolt issue with the tial housings.

I heard tial introduced new bolts for their housings to solve this problem sometime in 2011, no?

Funny enough, I ordered a new set of bolts for my tial housing from atp turbo mid-2011, and 2 out of the 6 came pre-drilled? Wonder if they're inconel or not.
From my experience:
1. they started with regular off the shelf 10mm hex stainless bolts
2. then went to a nickel-alloy ('inconel') 8mm hex bolt with a large washer face, predrilled for safety wire
3. then they removed the safety wire hole, keeping the 8mm and large washer face
4. then they went to a 10mm hex inconel, a basic copy of the original 10mm bolt.

And all the while the thread quality varied from ok to full-suck. The threads were rolled.

Originally Posted by shuiend
HAHAHAHAHA I have bolts from 2011 and they did not solve the problem. I just got done having my turbo safety wired after a CHRA exchange, because of bolt issues.



From what I have heard Tial drilled some Inconel bolts and then stopped doing it for whatever reason.

/threadjack
They did it because it cost a lot of money to do. I'm sure they didn't like changing out drill bits every other part. And I drilled your 10mm hex bolts for safety wire. I thought you drove around with no safety wire for a while...

Originally Posted by Efini~FC3S
New for 1/2 price, for a street car? I say option 3...
Thank you for being the only reply that stayed with the thread topic and answered my question. Option 3 wouldn't be as 'baller' and require more EWG dump fabrication, unless I just VTA which is an idea...hmmmm

Last edited by TurboTim; Jan 10, 2012 at 03:30 PM.
Old Jan 10, 2012 | 07:18 PM
  #137  
jacob300zx's Avatar
Elite Member
 
Joined: Jul 2007
Posts: 3,207
Total Cats: 150
From: Houston, TX
Default

Send me a bolt and I'll send you a test bolt
Old Jan 10, 2012 | 07:55 PM
  #138  
mx594m's Avatar
Junior Member
iTrader: (1)
 
Joined: Dec 2010
Posts: 279
Total Cats: 3
From: Knoxville, TN
Default

the choices were so DUH that no reply was needed
Old Jan 12, 2012 | 06:16 PM
  #139  
TurboTim's Avatar
Thread Starter
Elite Member
iTrader: (9)
 
Joined: Jun 2006
Posts: 7,033
Total Cats: 425
From: Chesterfield, NJ
Default

True.

Precision stuffs ordered. Cha-ching.

Going into work tomorrow to work on the adapters some. Called the block machinist to see what's up and he said it should be done tomorrow night, which means in another few months. Cylinder heads are...?

Crank balancer guy's last day at work was today so that turn around may take longer than planed too. Jesel is hiring a 5axis CNC programmer/machinist...

I have to disconnect the PPF from the trans & whatever wires are on top of the trans then I can yank the engine/trans out. The harborfreight engine crane doesn't seem long enough though. The jack hits the bumper before the hook is centered above the valvecover. Hmmm. I'll try it before trucking over my dad's old badass crane from the shop.

I think $5k for my entire drivetrain is good? I won't have the torsen out for another month or so though. 180, 175, 175, 170 compression cold/dry.
Old Jan 12, 2012 | 07:35 PM
  #140  
Faeflora's Avatar
Elite Member
iTrader: (2)
 
Joined: Jan 2007
Posts: 8,682
Total Cats: 130
From: Los Angeles, CA
Default

Originally Posted by TurboTim
You are running a S300, right?
S300SX 66MM

and yes you could have gotten the s200 with a T4 1.5 A/R or whatever housing.


BTW lol at my neighbor just doing a burnout in reverse up his concrete driveway. mustang gt power!!!1

Thread Tools
Search this Thread

All times are GMT -4. The time now is 01:49 AM.