nester

iTrader: (6)

New engine, new radiator, etc.. Same problem.

I need to figure out some ducting or diversion panels, etc.

cjernigan

iTrader: (13)

well what in the hell could be going on with your car.

nester

iTrader: (6)

i dunno. i even had my turbine and manifold ceramic coated..

cjernigan

iTrader: (13)

Where's the pics of your car man?
You like the Koyo besides the fact that they're expensive and it didn't help your cooling issue any?

y8s

iTrader: (8)

you ever checked your thermostat? what mix of water do you run? have you verified fan working?

nester

iTrader: (6)

i could care less, honestly. the rest of my under hood area is so hideous that the dressup is pretty trivial.


y8s, when i put the new engine in, i didn't change the t-stat, so it has a 5k mile OEM t-stat, which should be 192*. I still have a 180* that has approximately 500 miles on it that I could swap in.

Coolant is mostly 50/50 pre-mix, a bottle of waterwetter, and then some distilled water to make up the rest. It's probably like 40/60 at best.. the mix that was in there when the **** overheated was probably 15/85, it was mostly water.

I guess when I get back from vacation, I am going to check the radiator cap and pressure test the cooling system. This **** is going to get old real fast.

JasonC SBB

Aero drag requires power to increae with speed^3.
Cooling capacity through the radiator may go up with speed, maybe speed^2.
So cooling capacity can't keep up with heat production as you increase cruise speeds.

m2cupcar

iTrader: (5)

Bet the high pressure under the front end isn't do too much for your rad flow either with that make shift under tray. I ran a Miata on track w/o that undertray and at 100mph it looks like the hood is ballooning.

nester

iTrader: (6)

my plan is to build some diversion panels to force air through the radiator. I have a cutting machine at my disposal, so I just need to get some thin gauge steel (i'm thinking 20 gauge)..

I was planning on using cardboard to make templates, transfer that to the steel plate, then use that to transfer to the software.


What I don't understand is that I didn't have this problem at all last year, and I had no under tray on there at all.

Mymiataflys

When I first installed my turbo 6 years ago I was in a hurry to drive the car and never installed the black nose piece or the underpanel. Car had A/C then. Drove down the interstate in the Carolina summer and couldn't use the A/C above 70mph cause the temp needle started moving. Didn't have a way to measure actual temp but knew the gauge didn't start to move until it was getting hot. Then shortly after that I barely made it to Deals Gap for the July run due to high temps going up the mountains. I installed the undershield and nose piece and highway cruising was solved. Then A/c got a leak and I wanted to track it at Roebling Road in the summer, so I removed the A/C condenser(?) from the mouth and put in ghetto shrouding using the pool noodle things. took it to the track and had no problem with overheating.

people who say their car doesn't overheat after several boosted runs on the street haven't really tested the cooling capacity. On the track for 20 to 25 minutes is a totaly differant ballgame.

Ben I wish I could have helped you with some IAT #'s while in boost but I had to reboot my laptop and lost a boatload of datalogs and now i have like 5
Just got my car on the road this week. running it without a hood right now and using Corky's small 6.5 inch intercooler. one 1st to top of 4th gear pull at only 8 psi shows IAT going from 34 to 40 and quickly back to 36 then 34.

Anyway Getting air in the mouth and through the radiator/intercooler and out the engine bay is the way to go I'm convinced. Richard Murray has done alot of testing with coolant reroutes and he believes strongly that reroutes do little if anything to prevent overheating but rather are beneficial for a more even cooling of the motor when compared from front to back.