hustler

iTrader: (6)

I don't have time for that ****. I ordered the spacer, now I just need to get some 90* hoses, a barb, and someone to weld it.

What size barb do I need? I'd look myself, but I'm a few hundred miles away to check.

MazDilla

iTrader: (7)

As sure as a guy who has never actually ordered (much less seen) one can be

Here's some more wizdom from teh (dot) nets you can agonize over.

I have also read you'll need to:
- machine a groove for the T-stat
- drill/tap/weld ports for temp sensor and heater
- massage the bolts holes because they're a little off

m2cupcar

iTrader: (5)

Is there not a tstat recess in the BP/B6 head already? I thought there was from the fwd applications. Using the bowl type mixer in the photo would eliminate the need for anything more if the ports were used/modded as discussed.

hustler

iTrader: (6)

that would be pretty baller. I'm going to use the one from my 99 motor though. Any thoughts?

m2cupcar

iTrader: (5)

I'd go with the coolant cap/mixer in the photo I posted IF the head does have a tstat recess in it. What is that from - 99 front? I'd cut about an inch off the end and take the piece to the parts store, browse through the rad hoses in the back and find one that goes 90* under the coil pack and then 45* rotation 90* bend towards the front of the car. Use a coat hanger as a center line to mock up your bends. I've done that for a couple of rad hoses and heater hoses and found stuff that would work every time. Then you'd just need to get the coolant sensor in that bung and address the heater feed. I wouldn't bother with a 90* fitting for the heater feed either. Look for a hose with a 90* in it and enough length to get the core at the firewall.

MazDilla

iTrader: (7)

Yes, there should be a recess in the head for the thermostat. I missed the mods you are referring to. Most people use the spacer to move the thermostat out of the head allowing access to pre-thermostat water for the temp sensor and heater port.

If you are going to tap everything directly off the head you don't need the spacer.

hustler

iTrader: (6)

do you have any idea how big the bore is on the proposed heater lead? I might have to chop off that nipple to be sure I get enough hose clamp contact. Is there any chance that the bore is too small to adequately supply the heater?

hustler

iTrader: (6)

this is what usually happens when I buy something.

MazDilla

iTrader: (7)

You may still want to use the spacer to give you some clearance for your hoses.

m2cupcar

iTrader: (5)

If it's the same wall thickness as the heater return pipe, it's fine. It looks to be the same OD from the pics. I'd cut the end off with a hack saw and see what it looks like. Worst case you pull it out of the head and then tap the hole for an NPT pipe nipple. That'll give you a sufficient ID for flow and good OD to fit the hose. I'm using some NPT pipe on my modded cam cover now for the same features.

hustler

iTrader: (6)

I could, but look at the pics, I don't think I'll need it.

mcsinc

On mine there was.

I used the right angle nipple on the pax side and a j-shaped hose to get coolant over to the turbo. Where is everyone sourcing the turbo coolant from?

mcsinc

Sorry, I basically copied BBundy's re-route -- copying the original 323 GTX setup. I've used the blocked off port on the intake manifold (dremel out the block off, weld a plate between the bottom of runners 3&4, and add a hose fitting to direct coolant to the heater):



You can see the blue female AN- fitting that does a vertical 90* in the 3rd pic below.

I have a temp sensor in this line/circuit to send to the TEC3, so it always knows what temp the coolant coming out of the back of the head is (even with the T-stat closed):



There is also a temp sensor inline with the large diameter hose going from the back of the head to the radiator has BEGi's in-line port. This is the one that controls the fan. The fan would never need to be activated while the engine is just warming up and coolant is not going to the rad, so it should be fine to be here:





Anyone see anything wrong with this setup?

mcsinc

(double post) -- mods can you remove this?

hustler

iTrader: (6)

Sorry, I have a re-route that uses the blocked off port on the intake manifold (dremel out the block off, weld a plate between the bottom of runners 3&4, and add a hose fitting to direct coolant to the heater:



You can see the blue female AN- fitting that does a vertical 90* in the 3rd pic below.

I have a temp sensor in this line/circuit to send to the TEC3, so it always knows what temp the coolant coming out of the back of the head is (even with the T-stat closed):



There is also a temp sensor inline with the large diameter hose going from the back of the head to the radiator has BEGi's in-line port. This is the one that controls the fan. The fan would never need to be activated while the engine is just warming up and coolant is not going to the rad, so it should be fine to be here:




Anyone see anything wrong with this setup? I basically copied someone else's route that looked at how the original 323 GTX setup worked and mocked up the routing of that system. Can't remember his name right now.

m2cupcar

iTrader: (5)

msc- you're reroute looks complete and functional to me

hustler- you could use your begi piece then just take an OE housing like one in the pic below, chop off the flanged end and put it inline on the way from the back of the head to the rad. You could use it as the ~90* to come around the corner from the back of the head. Just plug or use the ports pre tstat... I'm sure somebody has done this.

ZX-Tex

iTrader: (15)

I searched here for information on that plug once I noticed it was there. I would like to add a sending unit for an add-on coolant gauge. FWIW I did have it located on the reroute hose between the heater core and the tee into the radiator hose and it always read much cooler than the stock gauge. Installing the sending unit where that plug is would essentially co-locate it with the stock gauge.



OK so if anyone knows what the thread type is for that 99503 plug in the diagram above, speak up

m2cupcar

iTrader: (5)

That cooler temp makes sense. Did it rise to a normal temp when you turned the heater on?

mcsinc

What is the thread on your sending unit? If it's not metric, there's not much point worrying about the plug.

Isn't the problem with putting a temp sensor in the 99503 location is that it will only sense the temp after the thermostat (ie: when the thermostat is open? Hard to tell from that diagram, and it's been awhile since I looked at the back of the head.

mcsinc

Hustler: did you figure out your main routing out the back of the head? The 1.6 cap fits perfectly and points to the i/t manifold side, horizontally (3:00 position, direction). Not sure why more people aren't just using one of these instead of chopping and welding the 1.8 cap ??