TorqueZombie

iTrader: (6)

Here's a fun fact for ya. Apparently the Hydra won't fire COP's run in wasted spark. I was pulling my hair out in the garage and called Trackspeed for any ideas. He can correct me if I mis-quote him. Long story short the Hydra can fire 1 coil for 2 cyl or sequential fired. For some reason it doesn't want to fire 2 coils for 2 cyl. I could fire the coils manually but the coils wouldn't fire during the starting. I've given up, ordered more weatherpacks, and trying to figure out how I want to wire it all up this time. On that note,

Any issues with wiring the ground wires to the block? or any other place good? Just trying to limit the rats nest. So this is the idea. Factory coil plugs go to Cyl 1&2, then pin off the Hydra for cyl 3&4 for +12&trigger and make the ground go to the block(unless there is a better spot for a ground location). Then click the sequential ignition button in the hydra and hope nothing explodes.

engled

A mount Pop made for a friends ITA car.



More pics here.
https://sites.google.com/site/wizzermotorsports/parts

pitbull113

iTrader: (14)

nice

taxicabyellow

Im happy people are still kinda chatting on this thread, Because I have a question i cannot find an answer to in all 76 thorough pages of awesomeness...

I have an early 95 with 4 wire coils... I have 2 dead coils im gonna hack up, wire/solder/epoxy to make pnp harnesses... It woul seem most people only pull the trigger wire from which ever side they arent getting power ground tach from? It would seem "smarter" to ALL the wires from both harnesses, no? power,gnd,tach,trigger for 1-4, as thats what the factory coil does, and power, gnd, tach, trigger for 2,3 with the oppisite connector...

Does anyone see a problem with this? I fully understand its a bit more work... but i think the end result would be cleaner power using 16ga wiring (thats the factory size of the toyota pigtails atleast)... Im i missing something? Is there not a tach signal in both harnesses? you guys are MUCH better than me with this stuff... I just figured it would be a more stable setup, and be a little more akin to a factory setup... Kindly prove me wrong!

taxicabyellow

NM! refered to a wiring diagram, and i see that the two harnesses come from 1 pwr wire anyway, and the gnd come from the rear engine chassis gnd... Can one of yall just confirm im retarded?

Braineack

iTrader: (62)

there should be a power/gnd/trigger/tach in each connector right?

just connector together the power, ground, and tach wires on your side of the wiring, but there should remain 2 trigger wires; 1 for each batch of coils.

green_comet

Finished the cops setup in my NA8 today, I modified the exising loom to make them plug and play.


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-htSa...ature=youtu.be

IHI

Looks clean. But I am missing a very important part....
Looks a bit like this:

green_comet

It's in the works, don't worry. lol

Godless Commie

iTrader: (2)

I redid my COP setup the other day.
For some weird reason, my initial attempts to include a capacitor in the circuit had resulted in blown fuses, so I had just opted to leave the cap out.
This time around, I properly charged the cap and installed it with the new wiring and the improved grounds.
Makes a very, very visible difference from the get go. Idle AFR values are about .7 points or so leaner now.. Same with cruise.
Unreal stuff.
Next, I will install two dozen caps for ultimate fuel economy...

TorqueZombie

iTrader: (6)

More caps=more awesome

blaen99

iTrader: (6)

http://www.ebay.com/itm/TOYOTA-COROL...item4843eceb2c

2 left, 4 pigtails + 4 COPs for ~$80 shipped.

Delete when done. Figured someone else would want these.

jim_rocketmow

I just finished my cops harness project. It looks good and all but.. I forgot to slice ground wire to head grounding. Now it grounds only to cars oem harness. Shieet, does it work without it? I have '93 1.6

poobs

iTrader: (1)

Maybe you guys can help with this..

I blew two coils on my COP set up about a year ago while trying to burn anMSQ into my Megasquirt.

Recently I purchased two toyota coils from Fleabay and replaced the bad coils but the tach does not work. Other than that the motor runs great with the COP set-up.

Does the tach need al the COPs to drive it ?

Any idaes what could be wrong and how I can fix it ?


Thanks

blaen99

iTrader: (6)

So, about to throw in COPs. Any big dos or don'ts guys?

Braineack

iTrader: (62)

do you have IG- and b+ jumped with a 1K resistor in the diagnositics connector?

and if yes, check to see if you have continuity between ground and IG-, if you do, unplug each coil until it goes away. When it/if it does, that coil has a bad tach output.

poobs

iTrader: (1)

Thanks man!!!

Yes, I have the 1k ohm resistor and the caps too. It all worked fine before.

You mean unplug each coil until the tach comes back to identify the bad coil ?

Braineack

iTrader: (62)

i guess you could do that too. if one is bad, the ig- wire will be grounded (when it shouldnt be)

peterd444

iTrader: (2)

Hey guys,

I've been following this thread and I found some Toyota Echo 1.5L COP 90919-02240. I followed all the wiring instructions including installing a 1k (1/4 watt) resistor in the +B and -IG and 10,000 uF Capacitor between +12V and ground.

Car fired up first try, idles great and cruises great but I'm getting what seems to be spark blow out on high rpm and boost. The plugs are still gapped at 0.026 (ran fine before with the stock 1.6 coil pack). Another problem is the tach isn't working at all.

I tried the "continuity test" Braineack suggested and everything was fine.
I strongly believe the 1.5L Toyota Echo COP aren't as suitable as the 1.8L Toyota COP.

Can anyone confirm this for me?

Braineack

iTrader: (62)

check the coils, how many pins on the 3 or 4?

gap them back up to .040"