COP Thread
06-22-2011, 03:23 PM
#1442
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LOL 12V. But the ignition systems can run alot more which I found out the hard way when I was a young boy holding onto a spark plug lead whilst my dad cranked the engine!
Thats why im concerned about the ignition system. The last thing I want is to melt wires because there to thin or get a cap blow up
Thanks Reverant 35V min
Thats why im concerned about the ignition system. The last thing I want is to melt wires because there to thin or get a cap blow up
Thanks Reverant 35V min
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06-22-2011, 03:33 PM
#1443
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Good thing we dont have coils amplifying voltage throughout the rest of our electrical systems 
The cap is there to store energy. The larger the cap, the more energy you can store. Think about the large 2 farad caps you pu ton large stereo installs to prevent lights from dimming on bass drops. This is the same idea, the 10,00uF cap is storing a bit of energy between sparks so you always have full voltage at the coils for maximum spark.
The voltage rating has to do with the amount of power you pump through it. You want a good fudge factor so the cap doesn't get too hot and explode. ~14v will be passing through it, if you got a cap rated at 12V, it's possible it will actually explode and fail. Not beause the coils operationg, but because the alternator was pushing more voltage through it than it could handle.
The cap is there to store energy. The larger the cap, the more energy you can store. Think about the large 2 farad caps you pu ton large stereo installs to prevent lights from dimming on bass drops. This is the same idea, the 10,00uF cap is storing a bit of energy between sparks so you always have full voltage at the coils for maximum spark.
The voltage rating has to do with the amount of power you pump through it. You want a good fudge factor so the cap doesn't get too hot and explode. ~14v will be passing through it, if you got a cap rated at 12V, it's possible it will actually explode and fail. Not beause the coils operationg, but because the alternator was pushing more voltage through it than it could handle.
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06-22-2011, 03:36 PM
#1445
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Amazon, Mouser, Newark, DigiKey... shipping will suck to the UK but you should be able to find is somewhere on the interwebz. NTE makes the 25v 10k uf I'm using. I can check the PN when I get home. Hell, there is probably a PN buried in this thread
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06-22-2011, 11:55 PM
#1449
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I'm going to go out on a limb and suggest this may be because the hard plastic flanges on the bottom of the coils are actually wider than the valley in the valve cover. I had to file the sides of mine to get them to fit all the way down. Your Fonzarelli strategy could lead to failboat of its own.
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06-23-2011, 01:04 AM
#1450
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...but in all seriousness, its a minor interference fit. "Whack" may be too strong of a word. Direct pressure is enough to seat them nice and snug, and they are not tight enough to warrant busting out a file to take care of right now. The more times I r&r these things the looser they get. I have no illusions that the situation is somewhat less than ideal. I will build some sort of hold-down apparatus in the near future, but it worked fine to get me to work and back today.
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09-02-2011, 03:13 PM
#1451
I think I found why I cannot make my COPs works....
I have Diamond Toyota 90080-19025 COPs that look exactly like the Denso 90919-02244.
They come from a Camry 1.8L 1998+ or Sienna 3.3L 2004+ ...
... these to cars are 24V cars......
So this might be the reason why they don't work ?!
I've looked to my wiring many times and redid everything twice.
Now, can someone tell me if I can make them work or not.
Thank you
I have Diamond Toyota 90080-19025 COPs that look exactly like the Denso 90919-02244.
They come from a Camry 1.8L 1998+ or Sienna 3.3L 2004+ ...
... these to cars are 24V cars......
So this might be the reason why they don't work ?!
I've looked to my wiring many times and redid everything twice.
Now, can someone tell me if I can make them work or not.
Thank you
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09-02-2011, 04:41 PM
#1457
is there a way to verify if the pinout is like this?
pin 1 : ground
pin 2 : trigger
pin 3 : tach
pin 4 : 12V
this is exactly how I wired it
I don't know whats might be wrong.
When I put them on the car and I try to start the car, it does crank but no spark
pin 1 : ground
pin 2 : trigger
pin 3 : tach
pin 4 : 12V
this is exactly how I wired it
I don't know whats might be wrong.
When I put them on the car and I try to start the car, it does crank but no spark
Last edited by absRTP; 09-09-2022 at 03:44 PM.
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09-04-2011, 05:20 PM
#1458
I found this:
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/5180459-post66.html
It's a different Toyota COP but the pinout is totally different, +12V, -12V, 5V trigger....
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/5180459-post66.html
Originally Posted by http://forums.pelicanparts.com/5180459-post66.html;
Another option ... and update on my progress ...
I am forging ahead with Toyota COPs with built-in ignitors.
Toyota #90919-02246 for 3MZFE engines (Kluger in Aus, Highlander in US and other models as well). Picture back in post #45.
I now have 14 units to play with after picking up 8 for $9 each on fleabay.
I have managed to get some more info from Toyota on their wiring diagram ...
wire #1 - earth (12v-)
wire #2 - ignition (12v+)
wire #3 - 5v ignition signal
wire #4 - signal back to ECU to confirm firing (not necessary to use)
Before I was aware that they only use a 5V signal, I tested them at 12V (post #97 in thread "using a coil pack ignition"). Luckily, it doesn't seem to have done them any harm.
I will be using MS-II or new MS-3 as a controller.
The COPs fit nicely into 964 valve covers as far as length is concerned. I need to source a slightly larger soft rubber seal for a gap-free fit. Planning to slice some a/c pipe insulation into rings about 1/4" thick for this.
The lower coils also need to be fixed in place so I will make up a set of retainers that use rocker cover studs or the existing mounting points for the original spark plug lead clips. I'll probably do the same on the top coils just to be safe.
I am forging ahead with Toyota COPs with built-in ignitors.
Toyota #90919-02246 for 3MZFE engines (Kluger in Aus, Highlander in US and other models as well). Picture back in post #45.
I now have 14 units to play with after picking up 8 for $9 each on fleabay.
I have managed to get some more info from Toyota on their wiring diagram ...
wire #1 - earth (12v-)
wire #2 - ignition (12v+)
wire #3 - 5v ignition signal
wire #4 - signal back to ECU to confirm firing (not necessary to use)
Before I was aware that they only use a 5V signal, I tested them at 12V (post #97 in thread "using a coil pack ignition"). Luckily, it doesn't seem to have done them any harm.
I will be using MS-II or new MS-3 as a controller.
The COPs fit nicely into 964 valve covers as far as length is concerned. I need to source a slightly larger soft rubber seal for a gap-free fit. Planning to slice some a/c pipe insulation into rings about 1/4" thick for this.
The lower coils also need to be fixed in place so I will make up a set of retainers that use rocker cover studs or the existing mounting points for the original spark plug lead clips. I'll probably do the same on the top coils just to be safe.
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09-06-2011, 02:30 AM
#1460
Ok, I've read this whole tread "I think". I have my COP's (part #19015), with pig tails, weather resistant plugs 4pin but look like little trailer plugs but they'll do, and can solder pretty well. I'm looking in wiring them 2by2. As in two COP's per wire harnes to each OEM coil connector and reverse the plugs on each harness to avoid plugging them in backwards on accident. I'm looking in the capacitors. 35v but running 4 caps with one on each pigtail as close to the COP as possible, the idea is thats where the voltage drop is. But do I need 10000uf for each or can I try ruffly 5000uf for each since it doesn't need to supply all 4 COP's. Bigger capacitors are well bigger and would like to hide the capacitor in the harness. Also who has blown up a 25v? thinking of downsizing the voltage to minimize cap size.
EDIT: This is basically what I'm looking at
EDIT: This is basically what I'm looking at
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