DIY coolant reroute from aluminum race jack
08-21-2011, 11:26 PM
#1
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DIY coolant reroute from aluminum race jack
I turned my old aluminum race jack into parts for a lower coolant reroute. I used a Moss spacer for the upper reroute. I'm still waiting on the Kia thermostat housing.
The sides of the jack were used for the front blocking plate, the base for the water bump inlet and the threaded temp sensor mount on the spacer. I used the jack handle to make the tubes for the water pump inlet and the front tube to connect the radiator to the water pump inlet. It was made as an elbow to make sourcing the hose easier. All I need is two 90 degree bends to connect it.
I used a Dremel to make the thermostat groove on the spacer. I used 5/8" aluminum tube to make the heater hose nipples on the spacer and the front tube. I still have to add the small hose barb to the water pump inlet part.
The sides of the jack were used for the front blocking plate, the base for the water bump inlet and the threaded temp sensor mount on the spacer. I used the jack handle to make the tubes for the water pump inlet and the front tube to connect the radiator to the water pump inlet. It was made as an elbow to make sourcing the hose easier. All I need is two 90 degree bends to connect it.
I used a Dremel to make the thermostat groove on the spacer. I used 5/8" aluminum tube to make the heater hose nipples on the spacer and the front tube. I still have to add the small hose barb to the water pump inlet part.
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08-22-2011, 02:00 PM
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I first tried to source the aluminum tubes but could not find any. Then my jack broke and I realized that it had all the aluminum for the parts I needed. The handle was a perfect match for the coolant hoses.
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09-01-2011, 12:05 PM
#12
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http://www.onlinemetals.com/
Virtually any type size or shape of material in small or large quantities to your door in within a day or two.
Nice job of recycling though. I swear it seems some of that fully manufactured **** you get at Harbor Freight cost less than you could get the raw materials for.
Bob
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10-03-2011, 12:07 AM
#13
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OK. After taking a vacation, I finally finished this project.
The water pump inlet ported to match the rectangular opening. The elbow has a nipple for the heater hose offset so that it doesn't interfere with the AC pulley. I also added spacers for the idler pulley bracket so that it clears the inlet.
The water pump inlet ported to match the rectangular opening. The elbow has a nipple for the heater hose offset so that it doesn't interfere with the AC pulley. I also added spacers for the idler pulley bracket so that it clears the inlet.
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10-03-2011, 12:07 AM
#14
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The upper reroute was also completed. 
I installed the spacer and Kia thermostat housing. I had to buy another hose section with two bends and join it at the rear to raise the hose so that the long GM hose would clear the AC lines. I left the front plate with the blue anodize.
I installed the spacer and Kia thermostat housing. I had to buy another hose section with two bends and join it at the rear to raise the hose so that the long GM hose would clear the AC lines. I left the front plate with the blue anodize.
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10-10-2011, 10:46 AM
#15
I turned my old aluminum race jack into parts for a lower coolant reroute. I used a Moss spacer for the upper reroute. I'm still waiting on the Kia thermostat housing.
The sides of the jack were used for the front blocking plate, the base for the water bump inlet and the threaded temp sensor mount on the spacer. I used the jack handle to make the tubes for the water pump inlet and the front tube to connect the radiator to the water pump inlet. It was made as an elbow to make sourcing the hose easier. All I need is two 90 degree bends to connect it.
I used a Dremel to make the thermostat groove on the spacer. I used 5/8" aluminum tube to make the heater hose nipples on the spacer and the front tube. I still have to add the small hose barb to the water pump inlet part.
The sides of the jack were used for the front blocking plate, the base for the water bump inlet and the threaded temp sensor mount on the spacer. I used the jack handle to make the tubes for the water pump inlet and the front tube to connect the radiator to the water pump inlet. It was made as an elbow to make sourcing the hose easier. All I need is two 90 degree bends to connect it.
I used a Dremel to make the thermostat groove on the spacer. I used 5/8" aluminum tube to make the heater hose nipples on the spacer and the front tube. I still have to add the small hose barb to the water pump inlet part.
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10-13-2011, 01:51 PM
#16
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Thanks! This reroute works really well. When I finished it I thought my temp sensor was bad because the temp gauge was always cold. To verify, I disconnected the fans and the temp gauge needle started to move. This mod going to be great on the track.
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10-14-2011, 01:42 PM
#18
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Most of it can be done without welding if you just buy the $80 BEGI spacer. Expensive compared to the above freeness, but the original mixing manifold can be tapped for a turbo water line and/or turned around, and the elbow isn't necessary if you don't have AC. Just the Yukon hose and a 90* piece that has a bit of length off one end.
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10-14-2011, 01:52 PM
#19
I got my spacer from Reverend Greg on here, I've also read about people using one from Moss (I believe this part has to be drilled/tapped though):
part number is 051-046
No need to call Moss. You can order by part number directly from their web page and it will put the spacer in the cart and show a price automatically:
http://www.miatamania.com/shop/OrderByPart.aspx
Edit: It's $15 and here's more info:
http://users.telenet.be/miata/englis...nt_reroute.htm
part number is 051-046
No need to call Moss. You can order by part number directly from their web page and it will put the spacer in the cart and show a price automatically:
http://www.miatamania.com/shop/OrderByPart.aspx
Edit: It's $15 and here's more info:
http://users.telenet.be/miata/englis...nt_reroute.htm
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