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Old 09-20-2016, 09:20 AM   #21
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Building a turbo miata is a slippery slope..
Yes it very much is.
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Old 09-20-2016, 09:22 AM   #22
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2.5 years ago, the absolute ceiling on my budget was 3k. This somehow ballooned to 3 x's that. Watch it.

First all you want is some ebay rods. Next thing you know, you've cut the floor out of the car to fit the seat you really want.
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Old 09-20-2016, 09:26 AM   #23
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Well it gets stupid expensive fast if you want to track a turbo car reliably and be above 200whp. You can build a fun street turbo miata for $4000 and have it be reliable. It is the minute you hit the track, or want more then what the stock rods can handle that the costs explode.
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Old 09-20-2016, 09:31 AM   #24
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Agreed. 100%
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Old 09-20-2016, 10:02 AM   #25
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Originally Posted by ryansmoneypit View Post
2.5 years ago, the absolute ceiling on my budget was 3k. This somehow ballooned to 3 x's that. Watch it.

First all you want is some ebay rods. Next thing you know, you've cut the floor out of the car to fit the seat you really want.
I actually just saw your floor modification on your thread a week or so ago. I am about as tall as I can be while still fitting in the car. I did a foamectomy on the stock seats. But ideally I will end up with something lower.
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Old 09-20-2016, 10:03 AM   #26
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Quote:
Originally Posted by shuiend View Post
Well it gets stupid expensive fast if you want to track a turbo car reliably and be above 200whp. You can build a fun street turbo miata for $4000 and have it be reliable. It is the minute you hit the track, or want more then what the stock rods can handle that the costs explode.
I am going to do my best to keep it under control. I really do just want a fun street car.
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Old 09-20-2016, 10:07 AM   #27
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It's all fun, until some 17 year old **** stain, breaks you off in the STI his parents pay for.

On the track.
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Old 09-20-2016, 07:15 PM   #28
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Where do the GM IAT leads go for 94-97 cars? The following diagram/info is from Joe Perez that I found in a different thread. Would the GM IAT go to the "IAT" pin and the "signal ground" pin? Or the "IAT" pin and the "power ground" pin? I feel like this should be simple to figure out, but I don't know enough about how the sensor works to know the answer.

W/R = 12v
R/B = IAT
R/W = MAF (0-5v)
B/L = signal ground
B/LG = power ground
(MAF sensor is the bottom right one in the image below)

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Old 09-21-2016, 02:52 AM   #29
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5 speeds blow up on track over 225ft/lbs.

I've seen 2 do it.
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Old 09-21-2016, 09:49 AM   #30
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JD8 View Post
Where do the GM IAT leads go for 94-97 cars? The following diagram/info is from Joe Perez that I found in a different thread. Would the GM IAT go to the "IAT" pin and the "signal ground" pin? Or the "IAT" pin and the "power ground" pin? I feel like this should be simple to figure out, but I don't know enough about how the sensor works to know the answer.

W/R = 12v
R/B = IAT
R/W = MAF (0-5v)
B/L = signal ground
B/LG = power ground
(MAF sensor is the bottom right one in the image below)

yes the iat wires should go to the IAT pin and power ground, the order doesn't matter. I believe it isn't based on polarity
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Old 09-21-2016, 10:02 AM   #31
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Forrest95M View Post
yes the iat wires should go to the IAT pin and power ground, the order doesn't matter. I believe it isn't based on polarity
The IAT sensor is just a thermistor. A resistor that changes resistance based on temperature. So as long as one side goes to the ECU and the other side is grounded it will work.
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Old 09-21-2016, 10:14 AM   #32
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Originally Posted by Forrest95M View Post
yes the iat wires should go to the IAT pin and power ground, the order doesn't matter. I believe it isn't based on polarity
Why power ground and not sensor ground?

Unfortunately I realized last night that my connector does not match the diagram I linked above so now I am even more lost. Here is my connector:


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Old 09-21-2016, 02:16 PM   #33
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See here:
https://www.diyautotune.com/support/...5-mazda-miata/
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Old 09-21-2016, 02:17 PM   #34
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Old 09-21-2016, 02:37 PM   #35
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Thank you both! From the diy site: "Wire one lead of the GM Sensor to the Brown Wire at the AFM Connector, and the other lead of the GM Sensor to the Yellow wire at the AFM Connector."

My connector has neither a brown nor a yellow wire! What is the deal?? But based on their images, they agree with Braineack so that is what I will be doing tonight.

Thanks again guys!
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Old 09-21-2016, 02:39 PM   #36
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Braineack View Post
Any idea if this would be accurate for an MS3 with MS3X board built using Frank Westfield's guide? I just happened to pick up an MS EBC solenoid the other day but haven't had the chance to look into hooking it up yet.
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Old 09-21-2016, 02:41 PM   #37
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JD8 View Post
Any idea if this would be accurate for an MS3 with MS3X board built using Frank Westfield's guide? I just happened to pick up an MS EBC solenoid the other day but haven't had the chance to look into hooking it up yet.
It depends on how your wired up your db37. I am not familiar enough with Frank's guide to say one way or another.
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Old 09-21-2016, 02:53 PM   #38
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It depends on how your wired up your db37. I am not familiar enough with Frank's guide to say one way or another.
I actually bought it with the car from Sklr. I will have to do some investigating to find out.
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Old 09-21-2016, 03:02 PM   #39
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JD8 View Post
Why power ground and not sensor ground?

Unfortunately I realized last night that my connector does not match the diagram I linked above so now I am even more lost. Here is my connector:
Looks to me like the only difference is you have a red wire and the wiring diagram shows a red with white stripe. Are you sure your red wire doesn't have a white stripe?
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Old 09-21-2016, 03:18 PM   #40
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Quote:
Originally Posted by huesmann View Post
Looks to me like the only difference is you have a red wire and the wiring diagram shows a red with white stripe. Are you sure your red wire doesn't have a white stripe?
Assuming my red wire is supposed to have a white stripe (I am 100% sure that it does not), then everything would still be switched to the exact opposite side of what the diagram says it would be. Doesn't the box with the "x" in it denote the clip where the plug latches?





If so then the picture I posted and the diagram image are oriented the same and my wires are backwards (mirrored across the y-axis).
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