NA1.6 Stock internals... advice please!
08-23-2013, 07:17 PM
#121
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I was saying I would swap my entire drivetrain over to an NB2 shell. I wouldn't actually do it, being that I prefer NA's. But, I did think it would be funny. I kinda want to do it now.
Totally wasted. Except when I think about my motor, turbo, manifolds (intake/exhaust), exhaust, 6spd and clutch costing less than a built BP short block from a "shop". No way in hell I could justify starting all over and spending 2-3x's the money to pick up power in a range that I don't care about. I wouldn't be able to do it. I'd still be stuck with my lame FM3 kit complaining about studs
-BP is superior track motor- Never questioning that, and from what I hear it does increase package size, if you know what I mean.
Totally wasted. Except when I think about my motor, turbo, manifolds (intake/exhaust), exhaust, 6spd and clutch costing less than a built BP short block from a "shop". No way in hell I could justify starting all over and spending 2-3x's the money to pick up power in a range that I don't care about. I wouldn't be able to do it. I'd still be stuck with my lame FM3 kit complaining about studs
-BP is superior track motor- Never questioning that, and from what I hear it does increase package size, if you know what I mean.
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08-23-2013, 08:37 PM
#123
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Common misconception, parroted mostly by people who have never actually driven on a track. Good track cars need acceptable torque at ~4000rpm, or they need to be geared and built to rev well past 8000rpm. The former is much easier and cheaper to do. I have yet to see someone here build a car to do the latter.
If you don't think a track car needs torque at 4k, please stay out of my way on corner exit
If you don't think a track car needs torque at 4k, please stay out of my way on corner exit
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08-24-2013, 06:34 AM
#127
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Well I'm amazed.
I have my reasons for staying 1.6, if those of you who want to know it's mainly due to classes here in UK club level motorsport and with the multi-pliers I'd end up against EVOs etc with a 1.8 turbo. Thats a fight I don't want to be fighting just yet.
This isn't a discussion about 1.6 vs 1.8, I already know that story - I've built enough 1.8's NA and FI to know that they're infinitely better than the 1.6, it doesn't change the fact that I want to do this on a 1.6.
If I do forged it's my choice and whilst you lot won't like it personally I couldn't give a crap, I'm not here to try and impress I'm trying to find out information that IS ON THIS FORUM - but it's hidden amongst pages and pages of threads like this. So far I've had opinion and facts on the 1.6/1.8 debate, I want FACTS on the 1.6 please.
Dan.
I have my reasons for staying 1.6, if those of you who want to know it's mainly due to classes here in UK club level motorsport and with the multi-pliers I'd end up against EVOs etc with a 1.8 turbo. Thats a fight I don't want to be fighting just yet.
This isn't a discussion about 1.6 vs 1.8, I already know that story - I've built enough 1.8's NA and FI to know that they're infinitely better than the 1.6, it doesn't change the fact that I want to do this on a 1.6.
If I do forged it's my choice and whilst you lot won't like it personally I couldn't give a crap, I'm not here to try and impress I'm trying to find out information that IS ON THIS FORUM - but it's hidden amongst pages and pages of threads like this. So far I've had opinion and facts on the 1.6/1.8 debate, I want FACTS on the 1.6 please.
Dan.
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08-24-2013, 11:44 AM
#128
At 3500rpm, it's literally 100ft.lbs of torque, and several people with GT2560R or EFR6258/6758 setups have made more low end torque than my old 2871R setup used to.
Let's put it this way: My naturally aspirated 1.8 liter PTE car makes more torque than your 1.6 turbo car does at ~4000rpm.
Let's put it this way: My naturally aspirated 1.8 liter PTE car makes more torque than your 1.6 turbo car does at ~4000rpm.
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