thirdgen

iTrader: (26)

This photo is my SR20 turbo mounted in my car right now. The compressor outlet is pointed down and the I/C pipe sits right in front of the coolant hose.
I feel it's a clean setup and this way you can also use the shortest length of piping possible to your I/C inlet.

thirdgen

iTrader: (26)

I don't have A/C, but I still have power steering. This does not affect my power steering pump or lines at all, but if I had an A/C compressor, it would never work.

bikersam717

iTrader: (5)

Awesome, thank you. Exactly what I was looking for. Happen to have any pictures of your wastegate? I've seen a few different examples, not quite sure on how I'll end up mounting it.

curly

iTrader: (25)

Check out slutz4's setup. He used an exhaust clamp.

thirdgen

iTrader: (26)

hang on...gotta switch computers...

thirdgen

iTrader: (26)

Here is a photo from the top.

thirdgen

iTrader: (26)

God I love high speed internet! It takes me longer to walk down the hallway than it does to upload a photo!

thirdgen

iTrader: (26)

That wastegate actuator is adjustable and it came off of a 1980 Pontiac Sunbird turbo. The stock SR20 actuator I think mounts on the outside of the compressor, not the inside like I mounted mine. It is non adjustable, pre-set to 7psi I believe, and has a longer rod. You can easily fabricate a mounting bracket and if the actuator rod is too long, just cut it in 1/2, cut it down until it fits, and weld it back together.

bikersam717

iTrader: (5)

Whatever actuator bracket came with mine was mounted on the inside like yours. There's 2 sets of holes tapped on the inside. I just need to redrill where the actuator holes go in the bracket and I think mine will work just fine. Thanks again.

bikersam717

iTrader: (5)

Here's a link in case anybody else want's to see it:
https://www.miataturbo.net/showpost....3&postcount=57

I might pick up an exhaust clamp and try that.

bikersam717

iTrader: (5)

Clocked it like so.
I can fit the actuator with one of the sets of holes for the bracket that was already drilled, but it pulls the rod out of the actuator maybe ~1/16th of an inch. I'd say about 1/6 of the way out in order to fit. Is that going to be a problem? Should I cut it and weld it ~1/16" longer?

thirdgen

iTrader: (26)

Know what I wish? I wish I could take a China charger 2871 compressor and make it fit my SR20 CHRA. I mean, use the 2871 compressor and wheel on my SR20 CHRA with the SR20 turbine wheel and turbine. It'll be a genuine garrett journal bearing CHRA and turbine, with a china compressor and wheel.
Did anybody ever think about doing this???
We all like the SR20 for the same reasons...they're dirt cheap, they last forever, and they spool FAST. I like it for the 1st 2 reasons...I'm sick of fast spool, and the SR20 turbo looses steam around 225whp. I want to still be cheap and dependable, but I also want to make 240whp without making my turbo max out.
Who digs this? Or do you guys think it's a lost cause and it would be a better idea to just buy a godspeed 3076 and run low boost like I planned?

thirdgen

iTrader: (26)

If you don't cut it so it stops pulling out of the actuator, the actuator won't open at like 7psi, it'll open at like 10psi. What is happening is, it's pulling the internal spring tighter, which causes it to open with higher boost. If you cut the rod and threaded it, so it would screw together, it would make it adjustable.

bikersam717

iTrader: (5)

Something like this?

thirdgen

iTrader: (26)

$hit yeah something like that!!!
Great illustration!

pusha

iTrader: (5)

pretty much what I got going on, I need to clock the sucker though!!