Turbo And Manifold, Need Help!
#2
easy, looks like a turbo i delt with recently. if it is there is a giant 6 inch c clamp on the center cartridge side of your compressor you will need to take out for you to rotate it. youll beable to see two clips near eachother and a hole in each. pull them together to loosen it, if it is a c clamp design. if you like the other 80% of turbos out there there are 6 bolts at the same place that you loosen.
this is assuming your oil return is already at the bottom when it is mounted to the engine. if its not first loosen your bolts on the turbine that hold it to the center cartridge and rotate the center till the oil return is on the bottom. then turn the compressor where youll need it.
if you have an internally gated turbo you will need to remount the acuator to the compressor keeping the arm the same length from the flapper pivot.... that is very important to keep your boost at the same place and keep from spiking/crepping/slow spool and helping the arm have the leverage it was made for.
this is assuming your oil return is already at the bottom when it is mounted to the engine. if its not first loosen your bolts on the turbine that hold it to the center cartridge and rotate the center till the oil return is on the bottom. then turn the compressor where youll need it.
if you have an internally gated turbo you will need to remount the acuator to the compressor keeping the arm the same length from the flapper pivot.... that is very important to keep your boost at the same place and keep from spiking/crepping/slow spool and helping the arm have the leverage it was made for.
#3
is that a T-25 or T-28? Either way it should have some 12mm bolts around the back of the compressor and turbine housing.
Loosen those and that should allow you to rotate the housings.
BE CAREFUL WITH THIS, once chip on those blades and the turbo is practically usless. Another thing, make sure the oil drain is pointed straight down or no more than 15* from plumb.
Loosen those and that should allow you to rotate the housings.
BE CAREFUL WITH THIS, once chip on those blades and the turbo is practically usless. Another thing, make sure the oil drain is pointed straight down or no more than 15* from plumb.
#4
It is a t25 from a SR20DET, loosining all six bolts would not be a easy task, one of the bolts is located right behind a drain port, I can't budge it too far,there is a metal clamp in the compressor housing , so by removing that I can rotate the inlet assembly correct...ummm, and when you speak of chiping the blades are you speaking of the internal ones Or the intake inlet of the turbo..
#6
lol ,Sorry its just a bit confusing when you have like five different people telling you how to do it, rev I am going to do as you said when I get to the house, Im just nervous Because Its my first DIY project, But I going to try and do as you recommeded,... Im learning by asking ?'s , Im trying not to be noobish, but apparently it's not working...damit
#20
A while back there was a white turbo miata with a sidemount. It used a Saab 900 I/C and had a hood scoop. The IC layed semi-flat next to the intake manifold. I thought it was pretty neat, but not sure how efficient the set was.
---Nissan used to have a 1.8L top mounted I/C. The IC sat directly on the engine.---It's the I/C I use, I had to take it a part and rotate the tanks for it to be a FMIC...
---Nissan used to have a 1.8L top mounted I/C. The IC sat directly on the engine.---It's the I/C I use, I had to take it a part and rotate the tanks for it to be a FMIC...