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Old 08-21-2006, 06:02 PM   #1
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Default Turbo And Manifold, Need Help!

oK I have run into another snag, I haft to find a way to rotate the turbo assembly so the intercooler outlet does not rest on the manifold, the turbo will not bolt directly on unless I rotate the outlet, how the heck do I go about this...I need help ...
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Turbo And Manifold, Need Help!-turbo-1.jpg   Turbo And Manifold, Need Help!-turbo-2.jpg   Turbo And Manifold, Need Help!-turbo-3.jpg   Turbo And Manifold, Need Help!-turbo-4.jpg   Turbo And Manifold, Need Help!-turbo-5.jpg  

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Old 08-21-2006, 06:13 PM   #2
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easy, looks like a turbo i delt with recently. if it is there is a giant 6 inch c clamp on the center cartridge side of your compressor you will need to take out for you to rotate it. youll beable to see two clips near eachother and a hole in each. pull them together to loosen it, if it is a c clamp design. if you like the other 80% of turbos out there there are 6 bolts at the same place that you loosen.

this is assuming your oil return is already at the bottom when it is mounted to the engine. if its not first loosen your bolts on the turbine that hold it to the center cartridge and rotate the center till the oil return is on the bottom. then turn the compressor where youll need it.

if you have an internally gated turbo you will need to remount the acuator to the compressor keeping the arm the same length from the flapper pivot.... that is very important to keep your boost at the same place and keep from spiking/crepping/slow spool and helping the arm have the leverage it was made for.
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Old 08-21-2006, 06:15 PM   #3
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is that a T-25 or T-28? Either way it should have some 12mm bolts around the back of the compressor and turbine housing.

Loosen those and that should allow you to rotate the housings.

BE CAREFUL WITH THIS, once chip on those blades and the turbo is practically usless. Another thing, make sure the oil drain is pointed straight down or no more than 15* from plumb.
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Old 08-21-2006, 06:56 PM   #4
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It is a t25 from a SR20DET, loosining all six bolts would not be a easy task, one of the bolts is located right behind a drain port, I can't budge it too far,there is a metal clamp in the compressor housing , so by removing that I can rotate the inlet assembly correct...ummm, and when you speak of chiping the blades are you speaking of the internal ones Or the intake inlet of the turbo..
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Old 08-21-2006, 09:34 PM   #5
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Didnt I already tell you what to do?!

take off the c-clip, rotate the housing (however you want it to point), reinstall teh c-clip. Thats it.
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Old 08-21-2006, 09:42 PM   #6
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Quote:
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Didnt I already tell you what to do?!

take off the c-clip, rotate the housing (however you want it to point), reinstall teh c-clip. Thats it.
lol ,Sorry its just a bit confusing when you have like five different people telling you how to do it, rev I am going to do as you said when I get to the house, Im just nervous Because Its my first DIY project, But I going to try and do as you recommeded,... Im learning by asking ?'s , Im trying not to be noobish, but apparently it's not working...damit
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Old 08-21-2006, 10:24 PM   #7
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if you break it you buy it
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Old 08-21-2006, 10:32 PM   #8
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if you break it you buy it


what is It like to Daily drive a first gen FI miata , I will find out soon..but what do you like and dislike about it?
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Old 08-22-2006, 12:20 AM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mxv View Post
there is a giant 6 inch c clamp on the center cartridge side of your compressor you will need to take out for you to rotate it.
thats two people saying the same thing. get to it son! as for chipping the compressor blades... dont do it
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Old 08-23-2006, 02:33 PM   #10
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I got it, the snap ring was a real B!TCH to get off , but I got it done , yay!! thank you miataturbo forum, you guys kick @ss

and yes I am happy, For a second I thought I had to buy a new turbo.
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Old 08-23-2006, 02:36 PM   #11
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Now on to figuring out your plumbing. I dont think you want to stick your filter out the top of the hood.
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Old 08-23-2006, 02:47 PM   #12
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oH thats not going to be too hard to figure out....I hope
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Old 08-23-2006, 03:03 PM   #13
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acutally you could probably throw a 90* on there and still have room to spare.
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Old 08-23-2006, 03:18 PM   #14
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I was thinking somthing like this, I am master of pc paint, lol jp
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Old 08-23-2006, 03:35 PM   #15
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not master enough to crop the pic lol

glad you got your **** sorted
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Old 08-23-2006, 03:49 PM   #16
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Originally Posted by Sirnixalot View Post
not master enough to crop the pic lol

glad you got your **** sorted

LoL ...well what can I do , I don't really know how to use the stupid Pc paint ...I try , lol besides I like drawing on paper, a pencil and ruler are my best friends, Pc does'nt like me jp
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Old 08-23-2006, 05:31 PM   #17
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Heres another setup that would not be a bad idea, With proper venting.
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Old 08-23-2006, 05:57 PM   #18
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smic? unless you do something like the begi scooper for that side and cut most of the side of your bumper out i dont see it?
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Old 08-23-2006, 06:34 PM   #19
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Quote:
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smic? unless you do something like the begi scooper for that side and cut most of the side of your bumper out i dont see it?

I guess you are right to that idea
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Old 08-23-2006, 06:35 PM   #20
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A while back there was a white turbo miata with a sidemount. It used a Saab 900 I/C and had a hood scoop. The IC layed semi-flat next to the intake manifold. I thought it was pretty neat, but not sure how efficient the set was.

---Nissan used to have a 1.8L top mounted I/C. The IC sat directly on the engine.---It's the I/C I use, I had to take it a part and rotate the tanks for it to be a FMIC...
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