headed to the strip tonight

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
Old 08-15-2013, 06:59 PM
  #41  
Elite Member
iTrader: (5)
 
Erat's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2011
Location: Detroit (the part with no rules or laws)
Posts: 5,677
Total Cats: 800
Default

Also, you don't want to "squat" to much as these cars camber out quite a bit with compression of the suspension.

ie. The Miata makes a bad drag car.
Erat is offline  
Old 08-15-2013, 07:09 PM
  #42  
Elite Member
iTrader: (3)
 
concealer404's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2011
Posts: 10,917
Total Cats: 2,201
Default

I'd take a good weight transfer at the expense of some camber gain over a stiff *** that doesn't do you any favors any day.
concealer404 is offline  
Old 08-15-2013, 08:46 PM
  #43  
Elite Member
iTrader: (2)
 
thenuge26's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2012
Location: Indianapolis
Posts: 3,267
Total Cats: 239
Default

That's cause your car's Fail Wheel Drive.
thenuge26 is offline  
Old 08-15-2013, 10:15 PM
  #44  
Elite Member
iTrader: (2)
 
triple88a's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2006
Location: Chicago, IL
Posts: 10,457
Total Cats: 1,801
Default

I'd imagine heaviest rear swaybar you can find?
triple88a is offline  
Old 08-15-2013, 11:56 PM
  #45  
Elite Member
iTrader: (46)
 
Stein's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: Nebraska
Posts: 4,729
Total Cats: 166
Default

Originally Posted by triple88a
I'd imagine heaviest rear swaybar you can find?
I have no rear bar. I had cut off the endlink mounts when I repositioned the shock pockets, meant to weld them back on and forgot and took all the suspension components to sandblast and paint.
Stein is offline  
Old 08-16-2013, 11:53 AM
  #46  
Elite Member
iTrader: (3)
 
concealer404's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2011
Posts: 10,917
Total Cats: 2,201
Default

Originally Posted by thenuge26
That's cause your car's Fail Wheel Drive.
When drag racing a Fail Wheel Drive car, there's no such thing as "a good weight transfer."


I still stand by my statements for RWD. Gimme some squat.
concealer404 is offline  
Old 08-16-2013, 02:36 PM
  #47  
Cpt. Slow
iTrader: (25)
 
curly's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: Oregon City, OR
Posts: 14,210
Total Cats: 1,139
Default

Are you seriously slipping the clutch in 1st?

I know I only have a few drag runs to my name, but I always assumed it was best to drop the clutch, and adjust your starting rpm and boost (good luck) off the line to compensate for too much bogging or wheel spin.

That way you're not putting as much heat through the clutch, lending it to slip later on in 4th.

I know if I burned my SPEC clutch a little too much, I wouldn't see slippage issues in 1st and 2nd, but for a few miles down the road it was useless in 4th and 5th, which is where clutches show their issues.
curly is offline  
Old 08-16-2013, 02:55 PM
  #48  
Elite Member
iTrader: (2)
 
Scrappy Jack's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2008
Location: Central Florida
Posts: 2,799
Total Cats: 179
Thumbs down

Originally Posted by curly
Are you seriously slipping the clutch in 1st?
Get out of this thread, road-course boy.
Scrappy Jack is offline  
Old 08-16-2013, 03:01 PM
  #49  
Cpt. Slow
iTrader: (25)
 
curly's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: Oregon City, OR
Posts: 14,210
Total Cats: 1,139
Default

Zing, ya got me there!
curly is offline  
Old 08-16-2013, 03:05 PM
  #50  
Elite Member
iTrader: (13)
 
Fireindc's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2006
Location: Taos, New mexico
Posts: 6,612
Total Cats: 567
Default

Launching is all clutch work, i don't know how you would modulate power quickly and accurately enough with the throttle alone to get a good launch.
Fireindc is offline  
Old 08-16-2013, 03:07 PM
  #51  
VladiTuned
iTrader: (76)
 
18psi's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2008
Posts: 35,821
Total Cats: 3,481
Default

you could modulate with throttle but that's nowhere near as effective in our cars.
18psi is offline  
Old 08-16-2013, 03:11 PM
  #52  
Elite Member
iTrader: (13)
 
Fireindc's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2006
Location: Taos, New mexico
Posts: 6,612
Total Cats: 567
Default

Originally Posted by 18psi
you could modulate with throttle but that's nowhere near as effective in our cars.
Good point, thinking about it now it's definately a little of both. I usually rev it to 4k and modulate the clutch to put down the power. This technique changes drastically based on your power delivery, though.

I HAVE smoked my clutch doing this once. Just once though, then I figured it out. Clutch is still fine and holds plenty o powah.
Fireindc is offline  
Old 08-16-2013, 04:08 PM
  #53  
Elite Member
iTrader: (2)
 
Scrappy Jack's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2008
Location: Central Florida
Posts: 2,799
Total Cats: 179
Default

It's probably a confusion of terminology. In drag-racing, we would refer to modulating throttle and clutch on the launch as "slipping the clutch" [verb]. That'd be distinct from "dumping the clutch" or "riding the clutch" and not to be confused with "a slipping clutch" [noun].
Scrappy Jack is offline  
Old 08-16-2013, 05:14 PM
  #54  
Elite Member
iTrader: (2)
 
triple88a's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2006
Location: Chicago, IL
Posts: 10,457
Total Cats: 1,801
Default

Turn on boost per mph adjustment.
triple88a is offline  
Old 08-16-2013, 06:38 PM
  #55  
Elite Member
Thread Starter
 
flounder's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: Detroit
Posts: 1,524
Total Cats: 31
Default

Originally Posted by triple88a
Turn on boost per mph adjustment.
Yeah, I'm sure my EMB has that feature.

I probably need to start another thread in a different section for this question but, anyone know anything about going return fuel on an nb?

I know I need to remove the in tank fpr and aim the fuel dump at the pump for cooling, then replace the pulsation dampener on the fuel rail with a stock 94-97 fpr, then run a return line into the afpr and back to the tank.

My question is don't I have to maintain 60psi for the car to run properly? With the NA fpr I'll only be seeing 45psi correct?
flounder is offline  
Old 08-17-2013, 12:06 AM
  #56  
Elite Member
iTrader: (46)
 
Stein's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: Nebraska
Posts: 4,729
Total Cats: 166
Default

Originally Posted by flounder

My question is don't I have to maintain 60psi for the car to run properly? With the NA fpr I'll only be seeing 45psi correct?
You should be able to compensate for the lower fuel pressure with additional injector open time in your fuel map, however you do that with EMB. Should be able to go with a set percentage across the entire map.
Stein is offline  
Old 08-17-2013, 03:40 AM
  #57  
Elite Member
iTrader: (2)
 
triple88a's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2006
Location: Chicago, IL
Posts: 10,457
Total Cats: 1,801
Default

Originally Posted by flounder
My question is don't I have to maintain 60psi for the car to run properly? With the NA fpr I'll only be seeing 45psi correct?
If you got the injectors its no worry, you'll just have to add little bit to your fuel map. Are you using VE?

If so all you have to do is lower the injector size and it should automatically fix it for you.

So say you have 600cc injectors, calculate it from 60psi to 45psi and you'll be down to 520cc. Changing that in the ve settings and you should be good to go.

Fuel Injector Calculator from WitchHunter Performance
triple88a is offline  
Old 08-17-2013, 05:38 PM
  #58  
Elite Member
Thread Starter
 
flounder's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: Detroit
Posts: 1,524
Total Cats: 31
Default

Cool, that's good to hear. I just ordered a 97 rail w/fpr off of eBay for 32 bucks shipped. Now I'm trying to find a good deal on the afpr.

Having a lower base pressure will probably make it easier to run the yellow rx8 injectors with my EMB anyway, since the only way to pull fuel with it is to mess with the injector correction factor table. Maybe I can leave that alone and see what afrs I see @43lbs with the 425cc.

Im definitely looking forward to starting this project, since I haven't seen any good write-ups on it, maybe I'll take a lot of pics and try to write a how-to?
flounder is offline  
Old 08-17-2013, 06:02 PM
  #59  
Senior Member
iTrader: (10)
 
RyanRaduechel's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: Oakdale, CA
Posts: 1,394
Total Cats: 123
Default

First time I went to the track I did a 12.60 and 119 trap. You just need to turn up the boostz. Stock fuel rail, fpr, and fuel lines ftw. But this was at 23 or so psi on a clutch that doesn't slip.
RyanRaduechel is offline  
Old 08-17-2013, 06:10 PM
  #60  
Elite Member
Thread Starter
 
flounder's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: Detroit
Posts: 1,524
Total Cats: 31
Default

What turbo at 23 lbs? Im about maxing out the rx8's at 14lbs and do to my boost addiction and crappy emu I think an afpr is the best option right now. Once the clutch is in and the fuel system is upgraded, it will be on!
flounder is offline  
Related Topics
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
Full_Tilt_Boogie
Build Threads
84
04-12-2021 04:21 PM
Corky Bell
Prefabbed Turbo Kits
18
11-22-2016 09:01 PM
shooterschmidty
Engine Performance
8
09-30-2015 10:28 PM
ihiryu
General Miata Chat
9
09-28-2015 10:22 AM



Quick Reply: headed to the strip tonight



All times are GMT -4. The time now is 12:57 AM.