headed to the strip tonight - Page 3 - Miata Turbo Forum - Boost cars, acquire cats.

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Old 08-15-2013, 07:59 PM   #41
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Also, you don't want to "squat" to much as these cars camber out quite a bit with compression of the suspension.

ie. The Miata makes a bad drag car.
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Old 08-15-2013, 08:09 PM   #42
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I'd take a good weight transfer at the expense of some camber gain over a stiff *** that doesn't do you any favors any day.
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Old 08-15-2013, 09:46 PM   #43
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That's cause your car's Fail Wheel Drive.
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Old 08-15-2013, 11:15 PM   #44
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I'd imagine heaviest rear swaybar you can find?
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Old 08-16-2013, 12:56 AM   #45
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Quote:
Originally Posted by triple88a View Post
I'd imagine heaviest rear swaybar you can find?
I have no rear bar. I had cut off the endlink mounts when I repositioned the shock pockets, meant to weld them back on and forgot and took all the suspension components to sandblast and paint.
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Old 08-16-2013, 12:53 PM   #46
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Quote:
Originally Posted by thenuge26 View Post
That's cause your car's Fail Wheel Drive.
When drag racing a Fail Wheel Drive car, there's no such thing as "a good weight transfer."


I still stand by my statements for RWD. Gimme some squat.
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Old 08-16-2013, 03:36 PM   #47
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Are you seriously slipping the clutch in 1st?

I know I only have a few drag runs to my name, but I always assumed it was best to drop the clutch, and adjust your starting rpm and boost (good luck) off the line to compensate for too much bogging or wheel spin.

That way you're not putting as much heat through the clutch, lending it to slip later on in 4th.

I know if I burned my SPEC clutch a little too much, I wouldn't see slippage issues in 1st and 2nd, but for a few miles down the road it was useless in 4th and 5th, which is where clutches show their issues.
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Old 08-16-2013, 03:55 PM   #48
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Are you seriously slipping the clutch in 1st?
Get out of this thread, road-course boy.
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Old 08-16-2013, 04:01 PM   #49
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Zing, ya got me there!
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Old 08-16-2013, 04:05 PM   #50
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Launching is all clutch work, i don't know how you would modulate power quickly and accurately enough with the throttle alone to get a good launch.
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Old 08-16-2013, 04:07 PM   #51
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you could modulate with throttle but that's nowhere near as effective in our cars.
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Old 08-16-2013, 04:11 PM   #52
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you could modulate with throttle but that's nowhere near as effective in our cars.
Good point, thinking about it now it's definately a little of both. I usually rev it to 4k and modulate the clutch to put down the power. This technique changes drastically based on your power delivery, though.

I HAVE smoked my clutch doing this once. Just once though, then I figured it out. Clutch is still fine and holds plenty o powah.
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Old 08-16-2013, 05:08 PM   #53
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It's probably a confusion of terminology. In drag-racing, we would refer to modulating throttle and clutch on the launch as "slipping the clutch" [verb]. That'd be distinct from "dumping the clutch" or "riding the clutch" and not to be confused with "a slipping clutch" [noun].
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Old 08-16-2013, 06:14 PM   #54
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Turn on boost per mph adjustment.
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Old 08-16-2013, 07:38 PM   #55
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Turn on boost per mph adjustment.
Yeah, I'm sure my EMB has that feature.

I probably need to start another thread in a different section for this question but, anyone know anything about going return fuel on an nb?

I know I need to remove the in tank fpr and aim the fuel dump at the pump for cooling, then replace the pulsation dampener on the fuel rail with a stock 94-97 fpr, then run a return line into the afpr and back to the tank.

My question is don't I have to maintain 60psi for the car to run properly? With the NA fpr I'll only be seeing 45psi correct?
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Old 08-17-2013, 01:06 AM   #56
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Quote:
Originally Posted by flounder View Post

My question is don't I have to maintain 60psi for the car to run properly? With the NA fpr I'll only be seeing 45psi correct?
You should be able to compensate for the lower fuel pressure with additional injector open time in your fuel map, however you do that with EMB. Should be able to go with a set percentage across the entire map.
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Old 08-17-2013, 04:40 AM   #57
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Quote:
Originally Posted by flounder View Post
My question is don't I have to maintain 60psi for the car to run properly? With the NA fpr I'll only be seeing 45psi correct?
If you got the injectors its no worry, you'll just have to add little bit to your fuel map. Are you using VE?

If so all you have to do is lower the injector size and it should automatically fix it for you.

So say you have 600cc injectors, calculate it from 60psi to 45psi and you'll be down to 520cc. Changing that in the ve settings and you should be good to go.

Fuel Injector Calculator from WitchHunter Performance
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Old 08-17-2013, 06:38 PM   #58
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Cool, that's good to hear. I just ordered a 97 rail w/fpr off of eBay for 32 bucks shipped. Now I'm trying to find a good deal on the afpr.

Having a lower base pressure will probably make it easier to run the yellow rx8 injectors with my EMB anyway, since the only way to pull fuel with it is to mess with the injector correction factor table. Maybe I can leave that alone and see what afrs I see @43lbs with the 425cc.

Im definitely looking forward to starting this project, since I haven't seen any good write-ups on it, maybe I'll take a lot of pics and try to write a how-to?
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Old 08-17-2013, 07:02 PM   #59
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First time I went to the track I did a 12.60 and 119 trap. You just need to turn up the boostz. Stock fuel rail, fpr, and fuel lines ftw. But this was at 23 or so psi on a clutch that doesn't slip.
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Old 08-17-2013, 07:10 PM   #60
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What turbo at 23 lbs? Im about maxing out the rx8's at 14lbs and do to my boost addiction and crappy emu I think an afpr is the best option right now. Once the clutch is in and the fuel system is upgraded, it will be on!
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