1.8L build, aiming for ~275whp
#82
I don't know if this will work, but here is a search for 'clutch' in the suspension and drivetrain section. It has all the answers you need.
https://www.miataturbo.net/search.php?searchid=2565660
https://www.miataturbo.net/search.php?searchid=2565660
#83
Well I went with FM level 2.
Also when I picked up some extra things from the shop today, I noticed the vin plate on my oil pan doesn't match the vin of my actual car. I looked and the VIN of the car for the pan and it was done in March. My VIN rolled off the line mid-April. Is it common for these numbers to be mismatched? I bought the car stock with 35,000 miles, dunno if maybe someone had an issue before I bought the car but there was no damage to the underside to suggest that a pan would have been broken and swapped.
Also when I picked up some extra things from the shop today, I noticed the vin plate on my oil pan doesn't match the vin of my actual car. I looked and the VIN of the car for the pan and it was done in March. My VIN rolled off the line mid-April. Is it common for these numbers to be mismatched? I bought the car stock with 35,000 miles, dunno if maybe someone had an issue before I bought the car but there was no damage to the underside to suggest that a pan would have been broken and swapped.
#84
Also, what's the correct procedure to fully eliminate A/C. Is there a new belt involved? What should be removed all-together? Compressor and lines? Condenser?
I hear the real proper way to go manual steering is to replace with a manual rack. I also hear it can be done by looping some line? Anyone care to explain one vs the other?
I hear the real proper way to go manual steering is to replace with a manual rack. I also hear it can be done by looping some line? Anyone care to explain one vs the other?
#90
Pretty set on everything aside from rods, pistons, and clutch.
Pistons (wiseco or supertech) (8.6:1 compression either way)
Rods (Eagle, K1, Manley)
Clutch (Comp, ACT, etc.)
Is Boundary Engineering oil pump really necessary?
Give me some input on which rod and piston combo you'd choose of the ones I've listed and why. All are priced similarly.
Pistons (wiseco or supertech) (8.6:1 compression either way)
Rods (Eagle, K1, Manley)
Clutch (Comp, ACT, etc.)
Is Boundary Engineering oil pump really necessary?
Give me some input on which rod and piston combo you'd choose of the ones I've listed and why. All are priced similarly.
#92
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The ATI damper is more expensive than the Boundary oil pump, and there's no guarantee that the ATI damper will solve the issue. There is, however, a relative amount of certainty that a BE pump will not fail due to standard crank flex at 300+whp. Those of us that race all have Boundary pumps, so take that as you will.
#99
Just wanted to thank everyone who participated and helped me through this. Engine is complete and I'm getting it friday morning.
I also came across a bit of extra money so I pulled the trigger on a SuperMiata 4T wheel damper. Figure it can only help solidify this new motor.
Also got some other things to prep for more power, again, thanks to a lot of the info given to me here
Finally, through all of this, I found a vin plate on my oilpan. It didn't match the VIN of the car, so I ran a report. Wonder what happened to the original engine too
I also came across a bit of extra money so I pulled the trigger on a SuperMiata 4T wheel damper. Figure it can only help solidify this new motor.
Also got some other things to prep for more power, again, thanks to a lot of the info given to me here
Finally, through all of this, I found a vin plate on my oilpan. It didn't match the VIN of the car, so I ran a report. Wonder what happened to the original engine too