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So I got a msm block from a friend and it seems like one of the wrist pin came out and scored the cylinder really badly. Ill upload some pictures tomorrow but the grooves are really deep. Maybe like half a cm deep. Is it worth it to get it sleeved or should I toss the block.
Depends, I wouldn't if I was building an 8k screamer race engine. I wouldn't if I wanted to maintain a matching numbers MSM. I wouldn't if I had access to another sound block cheaper/similar price. Otherwise, have at it.
Only use-case that I am uncertain about is a high-boost engine, and I am assuming Six's comment oks that.
Many engines built for high specific outputs sleeve all the cylinders before even beginning the rest of the engine build because it makes the cylinder wall thicknesses even and therefore the cooling is even. No thin spots, no hot spots. A sleeved cylinder will typically be much better than it's unsleeved counterparts. I would not hesitate to do it. It is an inexpensive and common process.
Are they wet sleeves or dry (or both) that you are talking about Six?
As I understand dry sleeves, they sit inside the bore, so the wall thickness is still variable, whereas wet sleeves replace the bore and as a result can have sealing problems, perhaps also location issues? Or am I just out of touch with modern sleeving processes/materials?
Here’s the photos. But I do have an another built short block that’s undamaged but was sitting for a few years. I searched I can use the msm pan on it. Correct me if I’m wrong. Also turns out these pistons aren’t the stock ones. The part number on em is 6553m84. Google tells me they are wiseco pistons -4cc. What compression ratio does that translate to? Also the other block has 10.5 cr pistons. Should I lower the cr or run it. I’m also planning on putting a vvt head on it.
It depends on the value of the block. If it cost $200-300 to sleeve the cylinder and a block cost the same I would not repair it. Sleeving is not desirable. LA sleeve makes a sleeve that will work.