Brakes suck
#4
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Here's a thread from a couple weeks ago, same problem:
https://www.miataturbo.net/forum/showthread.php?t=20926
PB Blaster, BFH, and/or thread a M8x1.25 bolt through the appropriate hole in the rotor to "pry" it off. First hit it with a good bit of PB Blaster and leave it for a while to soak in. Then try the bolt method. Sometimes it works, sometimes it just strips the threads. If that doesn't work, then get medieval on its *** with your BFH.
https://www.miataturbo.net/forum/showthread.php?t=20926
PB Blaster, BFH, and/or thread a M8x1.25 bolt through the appropriate hole in the rotor to "pry" it off. First hit it with a good bit of PB Blaster and leave it for a while to soak in. Then try the bolt method. Sometimes it works, sometimes it just strips the threads. If that doesn't work, then get medieval on its *** with your BFH.
#5
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I run into this question on several of the car forums I visit. Everyone says BFH, but it's not sinking in. You really have to whack it. Right at the edge of the top hat, between the studs. Hit it twice as hard as you think you need to, and it will pop right off.
Don't hit the back of the rotor surface, you might bust it off without removing the hub, or crack it, rendering it useless.
One advantage of restoring old, rusty cars; you learn when brute force is necessary, and also the best point of impact to do the most good with the least damage.
Don't hit the back of the rotor surface, you might bust it off without removing the hub, or crack it, rendering it useless.
One advantage of restoring old, rusty cars; you learn when brute force is necessary, and also the best point of impact to do the most good with the least damage.
#11
BFH did the trick. I had prepped it with PB. I assumed the BFH was the answer but the threaded hole I hadn't thought of...and pretty much why I consulted.
New rear brakes are in, the pedal feels better, the brakes actually grab and lock. Though....dunno if that was the back locking, I suppose I could ebrake test.
I might continue with brake work and get some stainless steal lines. Anyone know somewhere that sells them pre-wrapped? not that shrink wrapping is hard...but well, why do it when someone else can? I might just end up going with the cheapest kit i can find, all the hardware works the same.
New rear brakes are in, the pedal feels better, the brakes actually grab and lock. Though....dunno if that was the back locking, I suppose I could ebrake test.
I might continue with brake work and get some stainless steal lines. Anyone know somewhere that sells them pre-wrapped? not that shrink wrapping is hard...but well, why do it when someone else can? I might just end up going with the cheapest kit i can find, all the hardware works the same.
#13
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Advanced Autosports had the least expensive SS lines when I was looking, and they do come sheathed. The quality of the kit is very good, which is to say, probably no better or worse than all the other stainless steel brake line kits out there in the Miata aftermarket. I've been happy with them, although I've only had them on the car a few weeks.
FWIW, SS lines are a distant third behind good pads and fresh fluid if your goal is increased braking performance. Just sayin.
FWIW, SS lines are a distant third behind good pads and fresh fluid if your goal is increased braking performance. Just sayin.
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