MX_Eva

Anyone else out there had to change their 15+ year old brake rotors. Mine won't come off...i've sprayed them with PB the hammer is coming out.

If anyone has any tips or tricks...that would be good.

kotomile

iTrader: (24)

Just smack 'em with the hammer.

Make sure the little clips are off too..

Braineack

iTrader: (62)

either try to screw trick, using the little hole and pushing the rotor off the hub, or the BFH.

ScottFW

iTrader: (4)

Here's a thread from a couple weeks ago, same problem:
https://www.miataturbo.net/forum/showthread.php?t=20926

PB Blaster, BFH, and/or thread a M8x1.25 bolt through the appropriate hole in the rotor to "pry" it off. First hit it with a good bit of PB Blaster and leave it for a while to soak in. Then try the bolt method. Sometimes it works, sometimes it just strips the threads. If that doesn't work, then get medieval on its *** with your BFH.

rleete

iTrader: (21)

I run into this question on several of the car forums I visit. Everyone says BFH, but it's not sinking in. You really have to whack it. Right at the edge of the top hat, between the studs. Hit it twice as hard as you think you need to, and it will pop right off.

Don't hit the back of the rotor surface, you might bust it off without removing the hub, or crack it, rendering it useless.

One advantage of restoring old, rusty cars; you learn when brute force is necessary, and also the best point of impact to do the most good with the least damage.

wes65

iTrader: (7)

yeah, as far as the threaded hole in the rotor, you can use the thing that holds the spare tire down. The one that holds the jack down works too.

scottv

iTrader: (3)

Thanks! This is good to know if the BFH doesn't work.

Mach929

iTrader: (3)

i've had rotors stuck so bad they come off in pieces, but some say you need to worry about the wheel bearings hitting them so hard

mike_671

iTrader: (4)

I took a big *** hammer and hit the rotor while spinning it. After about ten times around, it didn't come off and i was gonna quit, but then i decided to go for round two and it took only two more hits and the rotor came off. Repeated on all 4 and they all came off.

mike_671

iTrader: (4)

Thats ridiculous. haha

MX_Eva

BFH did the trick. I had prepped it with PB. I assumed the BFH was the answer but the threaded hole I hadn't thought of...and pretty much why I consulted.

New rear brakes are in, the pedal feels better, the brakes actually grab and lock. Though....dunno if that was the back locking, I suppose I could ebrake test.

I might continue with brake work and get some stainless steal lines. Anyone know somewhere that sells them pre-wrapped? not that shrink wrapping is hard...but well, why do it when someone else can? I might just end up going with the cheapest kit i can find, all the hardware works the same.

cjernigan

iTrader: (13)

Pretty sure goodwin racing, forum sponsor sells plastic coated SS lines.

ScottFW

iTrader: (4)

Advanced Autosports had the least expensive SS lines when I was looking, and they do come sheathed. The quality of the kit is very good, which is to say, probably no better or worse than all the other stainless steel brake line kits out there in the Miata aftermarket. I've been happy with them, although I've only had them on the car a few weeks.

FWIW, SS lines are a distant third behind good pads and fresh fluid if your goal is increased braking performance. Just sayin.

MX_Eva

Oh I know lines don't help THAT much. I figure that when I get lines on I'll need new fluid anyway. so that'll be hit up as well. some high temp good stuff. and I'll splurge on new beefier pads when it becomes a serious limitation. Which should be "soon" with turbo on way.

samnavy

iTrader: (7)

Yup... they sell a ****-ton of stuff to SpecMiata guys... good enough for me.

TonyV

iTrader: (17)

+1 for advanced auto ss lines...
FYI the RED sheathed one's were on backorder as of couple weeks ago, took them over a week to tell me so save yourself some aggrivation and ask in advance..