The Great Radiator Debate- What is really needed?
#41
You will want to do the draining a few times. I was still pulling mineral deposit **** out of my engine after flushing about 9-11 gallons of distilled water, over two sessions.
#43
There is two threads I have read about the coolant reroute vs. 2001 stuff.
http://forum.miata.net/vb/showthread.php?t=350182
http://forum.miata.net/vb/showthread.php?t=185985
I think the conclusion that came out is a 2001+ w/ the reroute and 99/mazdaspeed HG is probably the best. with the 99 w/ the reroute coming in 2nd.
but for sure if you are on the 2001+ HG, you should not run the reroute.
http://forum.miata.net/vb/showthread.php?t=350182
http://forum.miata.net/vb/showthread.php?t=185985
I think the conclusion that came out is a 2001+ w/ the reroute and 99/mazdaspeed HG is probably the best. with the 99 w/ the reroute coming in 2nd.
but for sure if you are on the 2001+ HG, you should not run the reroute.
#45
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Dammit, I have to put the rad. purchase on hold until I know how I am going to fund my next semester. I'm supposed to have some of my loan from last semester left over, but I can't find where that money is sitting...so I might need to break out the CC that I was going to use to order a new rad. Argh FML.
Is anyone here running the 37mm KOYO?
Is anyone here running the 37mm KOYO?
#46
I am running a 37mm koyo, ducted, with one stock fan. My fan ducting is two pieces of weatherstripping. My radiator ducting involved the removal of the air straightener, some aluminum and weather stripping. I have had no problems in 100*F heat here or on track. Keep in mind I am not turbo charged.
#47
FWIW my 01 head with reroute and modded (added 4 holes) 99 gasket, runs about 4*C cooler in similar hot-weather situations, than my 99 head with stock 99 gasket with the same reroute. 01 head has more holes which I took advantage of by adding said holes to 99 gasket. Deets in m.net thread.
#48
Yup! I've got a Koyo 37. It's pretty decent. Decent being the key word. It works well enough to drive my happy *** back and forth to work in 110*F New Mexico heat and keep coolant temps at 94*C and below. I'm running the stock fans, a reroute, and minimal ducting. I really need to redo the ducting. It's awful.
The thing is, my setup is marginal. It works in the hottest temps, but it doesn't have much overhead. I can't turn on my a/c without getting into high coolant temps. Last time I did it, I hit 104*C and turned it off. Temps slowly backed down for the rest of the drive home. And I didn't take that car on the hot days after that. I do like my a/c...
I ordered a set of FM's fans and shrouds, but haven't yet installed them. They got here in September when things were cooling down. I plan to put them in next spring. I also plan to really seal up the nose. Then, I'll wait for the summer heat again. If cooling is still marginal, I'll go in search of a larger rad.
The Koyo 37 is a fine radiator. 2 weeks after I bought it, FM put out their crossflow design. I started kicking myself. Then the TSE rad came out. The kicking continued.
It's a fine radiator. But I wish I'd bought something bigger.
The thing is, my setup is marginal. It works in the hottest temps, but it doesn't have much overhead. I can't turn on my a/c without getting into high coolant temps. Last time I did it, I hit 104*C and turned it off. Temps slowly backed down for the rest of the drive home. And I didn't take that car on the hot days after that. I do like my a/c...
I ordered a set of FM's fans and shrouds, but haven't yet installed them. They got here in September when things were cooling down. I plan to put them in next spring. I also plan to really seal up the nose. Then, I'll wait for the summer heat again. If cooling is still marginal, I'll go in search of a larger rad.
The Koyo 37 is a fine radiator. 2 weeks after I bought it, FM put out their crossflow design. I started kicking myself. Then the TSE rad came out. The kicking continued.
It's a fine radiator. But I wish I'd bought something bigger.
#55
I will throw in my .02 on this. The stock plastic-tanked rad in my '93 broke at around 100k. I replaced it with an all-metal auto-trans unit. Then I boosted to 200whp for about 50k miles on 2 different engines. Both fans wired together, stock front-shroud removed, and under-engine cover removed. I never had a single heat problem over the course of 2 Virginia summers.
This was on the stock thermostat, no reroute, and Prestone regular.
On a street car, do you really need more than a DIY reroute and to replace the stock plastic-tanked rad with an aftermarket all-metal unit from RockAuto?
This was on the stock thermostat, no reroute, and Prestone regular.
On a street car, do you really need more than a DIY reroute and to replace the stock plastic-tanked rad with an aftermarket all-metal unit from RockAuto?
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