Projectors in turn signals. A shitty DIY guide.
#101
Bicycle lights aren't exactly legal.
The problem with leds is the emitter is directly visible from the front, even if you are outside the spot angle.
It's excruciatingly bright. Torture test, sit in your dark garage then stare them puppies down. You'll be seeing spots from a few seconds exposure, especially if you let your eyes adjust to the dark.
Don't be that guy...
The problem with leds is the emitter is directly visible from the front, even if you are outside the spot angle.
It's excruciatingly bright. Torture test, sit in your dark garage then stare them puppies down. You'll be seeing spots from a few seconds exposure, especially if you let your eyes adjust to the dark.
Don't be that guy...
#103
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Last piece of the puzzle. Spacers to mount the lenses correctly in the bumper
Light output. Its awesome. If it doesn't looks awesome its because my camera sucks.
Light output. Its awesome. If it doesn't looks awesome its because my camera sucks.
#104
I ended up ordering the 60mm projectors. I had wanted to go with LED partly for the lower electrical load but the actual usable light per watt seems to be better with these.
Also, because I was curious, they are .8lb each (with mounting hardware):
What was the reason for ordering those relays? The stock low beams draw similar power and are already on one?
Also, because I was curious, they are .8lb each (with mounting hardware):
What was the reason for ordering those relays? The stock low beams draw similar power and are already on one?
#107
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I like relays. I had it wired for a relay already. Relays are cool. Relays are cheap. I bought 55w and 35w. I've never tried 55w and now that I have a projector housing I kind of want to try.
The other set will go on CL for more than i paid for it sadly.
The other set will go on CL for more than i paid for it sadly.
#110
Instead of delrin spacers I cut up the reflector housing and used the adhesive + tabs to hold them in place. Also, I ordered a 9005 to h4 conversion harness (9005 to H4 headlight adapter harness). The low beam ended up having a 1ohm resistor wired into it so I cut that out. In retrospect I should have ordered the high beam only and then de-pinned that connection and moved it to the low beam spot.
https://i.imgur.com/ddq6qdx.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/ddq6qdx.jpg
#111
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I just stuck a spade connector in there. HIDs came with the 9005 plug. Its just a standard AMP connector I believe.
Haha. I have a reflector housing I started cutting just like that, I might do that instead eventually.
Haha. I have a reflector housing I started cutting just like that, I might do that instead eventually.
#116
I wanted to follow up and post what I did for my install.
I installed my lights forward of the front crash beam (I copied this from OneTwo). The adjustment screw is pointing threads forward so there is no need for a nut and the projector ends up closer to the covers. The only thing I wish I had done better was keep the lights clocked level. My drivers side light is rotated a few degrees. I might try and oval the mounting hole and the fill the side in with some weld to get it back to perfectly straight.
I tried several styles of turn signals and have settled on these inexpensive LED strips attached to the upper edge of the headlight cover with clear RTV:
The little 3/4" led light pictured above wasn't bright enough and it was too recessed to see well from different angles.
The only downside with these is that the wiring so thin and cheap that it's difficult to make a crimp onto it with any common butt splices. You do get 4 of them in a pack for $5.
12v and ground supply for the projectors is here:
wiring for the turn signals. I don't have anything wired in for a marker lamp:
Lastly, Not including the weight of the Singular Motorsports headlight lid brackets or the steel cut out of the crash bar, the headlight retrofit saved 14.5lb. The light out of my 35w hids is better than stock both for visibility and lighting cutoff.
I installed my lights forward of the front crash beam (I copied this from OneTwo). The adjustment screw is pointing threads forward so there is no need for a nut and the projector ends up closer to the covers. The only thing I wish I had done better was keep the lights clocked level. My drivers side light is rotated a few degrees. I might try and oval the mounting hole and the fill the side in with some weld to get it back to perfectly straight.
I tried several styles of turn signals and have settled on these inexpensive LED strips attached to the upper edge of the headlight cover with clear RTV:
The little 3/4" led light pictured above wasn't bright enough and it was too recessed to see well from different angles.
The only downside with these is that the wiring so thin and cheap that it's difficult to make a crimp onto it with any common butt splices. You do get 4 of them in a pack for $5.
12v and ground supply for the projectors is here:
wiring for the turn signals. I don't have anything wired in for a marker lamp:
Lastly, Not including the weight of the Singular Motorsports headlight lid brackets or the steel cut out of the crash bar, the headlight retrofit saved 14.5lb. The light out of my 35w hids is better than stock both for visibility and lighting cutoff.
#119
Thanks for the quick answer. I have several turn signals I can sacrifice, I may experiment with adding Led strips into the main housing. I have awesome projectors in my moss low pro kit and don't want to loose those. Short term I can just pop them up and leave low beams on.. Or they may just fit with lo pros... Hmm