Hi all - again, thanks SO MUCH for all the advice and input in this thread.
Jefe - I'm going to leave the MAF in there anyway, unless someone comes up with a way to mimic its signal; I want to keep OBD2 from freaking out. I have smog techs in my pocket, but there's no way to fool the OBD2 connector. Good call on the injectors. Probably getting ahead of myself, but how large an injector do you suppose the OEM ECU can manage at OEM pressure? And how much headroom would I have for boost on OEM 1.8L injectors at OEM pressure?
UrbanSoot - I'm familiar with the belt woes, but I'm under the impression that's taken care of with the FFS coldside.
Sav - I wouldn't use the PCpro/Ecool under any circumstances. If I can't tune for it with MS, I can go WI off the bat. Bandaids kill engines, no doubt.
Torkel & Bryce - well aware of the cooling issue. One of the things that's so wonderful about tracking the car stock is not worrying about temps. Through a major weekend track flog, running basically nonstop for three hours at a stretch, the temp never got to 12 o'clock, and oil temps maxed out at 220.
I suppose I should see what a BegiS + upgraded lines + upgraded DP + EbayIC + homemade exhaust costs versus a FFS. Either way, WI is a sure thing, as is MS and WB.
FFS coldside bare=$3000
MS/WB/WI is another $600 on top of either, though it could be postponed with the turbo+IC, and another $300(?) for radiator and reroute, plus $200(?) for a clutch. That's another $900-1100.
So it looks like I could have a turbo done right, minus WI, for $3000+/-. The FFS would be $4000+/-. So it costs $1000 more, less dicking, less power and tuning potential, marginally better drivability, easier de-boosting. Still thinking I won't run much or any boost on track, FFS makes it on/off, turbo makes it variable 5-10psi. So much to think about.
something like this acceptable? Interesting to see it's so cheap. Err... inexpensive?
Think I could get by without an oil cooler? We run Thunderhill in july/aug when it's 100F+