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Harbor Freight Win-or-Fail Thread

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Old 08-12-2013, 05:36 PM
  #301  
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Originally Posted by Braineack
I have dat feel that I'll need something like this to remove my strikers and latches...
The latch and striker weren't a problem on my car, it was the cup on the lower part of the door that lines up with the rubber "stop" on the body.
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Old 08-13-2013, 09:39 AM
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completely striped the latch screws. They all started to turn with great effort, then completely failed. I was even using the proper sized driver to fit perfectly. I just i drill them out? or try a vice grip? I dont even know.
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Old 08-13-2013, 10:09 AM
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Buy a new car, stick with subarus.
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Old 08-13-2013, 10:15 AM
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Originally Posted by TurboTim
Buy a new car, stick with subarus.
sounds like a plan. Is it sad I've considered selling the miata just to buy a camera body?
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Old 08-16-2013, 09:57 PM
  #305  
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Air Saw - 0/5 mega-fail




Even fitted with a modified saws-all blade, I doubt it could cut PVC pipe. Avoid at all costs. It's so bad, I almost feel guilty for taking it to the scrap recyclers.
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Old 08-17-2013, 12:26 AM
  #306  
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Agreed
Originally Posted by 2ndGearRubber
Air Saw - 0/5 mega-fail




Even fitted with a modified saws-all blade, I doubt it could cut PVC pipe. Avoid at all costs. It's so bad, I almost feel guilty for taking it to the scrap recyclers.
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Old 08-17-2013, 09:20 AM
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Originally Posted by Braineack
completely striped the latch screws. They all started to turn with great effort, then completely failed. I was even using the proper sized driver to fit perfectly. I just i drill them out? or try a vice grip? I dont even know.
I ended up having to cut off the heads with a dremel. then I could only remove one with a vice grip, the other two had to be drilled out.
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Old 08-17-2013, 10:09 AM
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Brain, I usually use the dremel and cut a slot for a large screw driver. If that doesn't work you can use a cold chisel in the groove and it is rare that I have to drill out a bolt.
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Old 08-17-2013, 11:38 AM
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i did that. i was able to get a few more turns out of them each, but they werent coming out. Looks like the threads had locktite or something on them and they did NOT want to unscrew. Even when I tried vicegirp after cutting off the heads, I was only able to turn one out, one snapped, and the other was destroying/warping my vicegrips.
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Old 08-18-2013, 06:36 PM
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Originally Posted by compaddict
Agreed
This body saw is actually great for cutting body sheet metal. It can cut aluminum intercooler piping in a pinch, but a cutoff wheel is better.

You can knock out the hole behind the headlight in about 60sec without damaging the paint.

I think people expect it to be a mini sawzall but it is only good for thin sheet metal.
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Old 08-18-2013, 07:47 PM
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Im sure someone has mentioned it in here somewhere, but this computer is incredibly slow, so im not going to make it commit suicide by TRYING to go through the pages,
But, i have an awesome Channel Lock tool set, and i accidentally Arced and welded the gear on my 3/8 drive ratchet while dissasembling a battery tie down. Went to Harbor Freight, because i NEEDED a 3/8 for what i was doing... well... i always use one... anyways, picked up a Pittsburgh Tools Ratchet, and its almost IDENTICAL to the Channellock that i fried, it ratchets smoothly, never slips teeth, AND fits PERFECTLY into the spot the old one was in, in the Travel box. Idk... no big deal i spose, but its my FIRST pittsburgh tool, and it is pretty badass. Ill still be using the warranty on my fried ratchet, but im not in AS MUCH of a hurry to replace it now

Long story short.... Pittsburgh Hand tools are badass.
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Old 08-18-2013, 08:30 PM
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Originally Posted by 3rdCarMX5
This body saw is actually great for cutting body sheet metal. It can cut aluminum intercooler piping in a pinch, but a cutoff wheel is better.

You can knock out the hole behind the headlight in about 60sec without damaging the paint.

I think people expect it to be a mini sawzall but it is only good for thin sheet metal.


Except basically the same thing (as far as looks, weight, noise-level) is sold by matco/snap-on, and it IS a mini-sawzall.

They may be $300, but those ******* can cut through plate steel.
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Old 09-24-2013, 12:45 PM
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A simple one but a goodie - WIN
I thought someone had covered these but I could not find it.



Portable Worklight & Flashlight - 27 LED Light Flashlight

I bought a couple of these to try them out and will be buying more. The magnet on the back makes it handy. Well worth the $3.50 they charge for them.
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Old 09-24-2013, 12:47 PM
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not bright enough for me.
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Old 09-24-2013, 12:54 PM
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Sometimes you get them for free.
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Old 09-24-2013, 01:14 PM
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Originally Posted by Leafy
Sometimes you get them for free.
+1
I got 2 for free with a coupon last week
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Old 09-26-2013, 12:01 AM
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Originally Posted by Braineack
not bright enough for me.
You are allowed by law to use more than just one. Did I mention they are cheap? I think someone else mentioned they are sometimes free. So obtaining more than one is well within the realm of possibility. I have two.
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Old 09-26-2013, 10:24 AM
  #318  
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next brain will say he doesn't know their color temperature.
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Old 09-26-2013, 10:46 AM
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Originally Posted by y8s
next brain will say he doesn't know their color temperature.
they appear to be in the ~5000K range.
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Old 09-26-2013, 11:08 AM
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Anyone here using a US General tool chest and care to give a quick review?

I'm looking into one vs an equivalent craftsman one. They're about the same price but the quality of the craftsman ones have really dropped over the past few years
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