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Old 03-25-2013, 10:01 PM   #16441
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As much as multi-link designs bother me (why so many moo-ving parts), and as much as it pains me to say something nice about Audi, I do kind of like the design that 2GR posted.

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Old 03-25-2013, 10:11 PM   #16442
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errybody so jelly of mah rear suspensions:

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Old 03-25-2013, 11:11 PM   #16443
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Pt 1:




Pt 2:

Here is a typical rear suspension from a common pickup truck:



One of the shock absorbers is mounted (at the bottom) to the rear of the axle tube, and the other is mounted to the front of the axle tube.

Can someone please explain to me why this is? It bothers me every time I see this on the road.
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Old 03-26-2013, 12:41 AM   #16444
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I believe that's a 3-link setup, and they're used to help keep it from rotating, something a 4-link does a better job of. I could be completely wrong though.

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Old 03-26-2013, 12:45 AM   #16445
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Axle wrap would be my guess.

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Old 03-26-2013, 01:06 AM   #16446
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Axle wrap. Makes perfect sense.

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Old 03-26-2013, 05:41 AM   #16447
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Quote:
Originally Posted by curly View Post
I believe that's a 3-link setup, and they're used to help keep it from rotating, something a 4-link does a better job of. I could be completely wrong though.
Thats a torsion bar setup. Biggest garbage system out there since you get a mile of bump steer. This is a 3 link. As you see the top link is solid, usually they are in a triangle like the bottom pic. In my opinion that is better than the 4 link setup.



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Old 03-26-2013, 07:28 AM   #16448
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Originally Posted by 2ndGearRubber View Post
Positive camber gain is inherent in the strut design. Personally, I don't think it can be designed out. However, based on the way the steering-angle inclination is designed, and the new lower mount attachment in relation to the knuckle, I would be swaying towards saying positive camber gain would be less than a traditional Mc-strut. Again, I have nothing to prove this, just my take on the new design.


Audi is using the below suspension now, multi-link front. Finding and replacing ball joints in that mess will be a pain in the ***.

You don't replace ball joints, you replace all control arms and inner and outer tierods at once. God help you if you don't do them all at once because that sonofabitch will start to clunk again in a month or so. Have fun with the pinch bolt, it's an adventure.


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Old 03-26-2013, 01:34 PM   #16449
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You don't replace ball joints, you replace all control arms and inner and outer tierods at once. God help you if you don't do them all at once because that sonofabitch will start to clunk again in a month or so. Have fun with the pinch bolt, it's an adventure.


Except most customers refuse to do that. Otherwise I'd be putting in a water pump with almost every timing belt. They fix what's broken, wait for the rest to fail. Timing belt snaps, they skip the WP, they come in 20k later bitching about a failed water pump nose bearing.

Although with the system having so many moving parts, I would no be surprised if one failure leads to subsequent failures in a domino effect. I'm sure slop in one ball joint will lead to wiping out everything else in short order.





I was more referring to the difficulty of determining which ball joint is bad, with both being located so close together. I'll probably just lift the the car up a 1/4 inch, stick a pry-bar under the tire, and do the wiggle test, just like on a pickup.


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Old 03-26-2013, 02:27 PM   #16450
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this is for joe:

http://www.smbc-comics.com/comics/20110423.gif
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Old 03-26-2013, 02:31 PM   #16451
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you got to be kidding me.



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Old 03-26-2013, 02:37 PM   #16452
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What is this, a comic strip for ants?!

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Old 03-26-2013, 03:12 PM   #16453
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Old 03-26-2013, 06:36 PM   #16454
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Quote:
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fixed, maybe? i dont even know the rulez
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Old 03-26-2013, 08:23 PM   #16455
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DR's, full body weight and still IRS. lol

Dat wheel lift. Perfect carry, good lord.

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Old 03-26-2013, 10:11 PM   #16456
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Old 03-26-2013, 10:27 PM   #16457
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Old 03-26-2013, 10:40 PM   #16458
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Old 03-26-2013, 10:49 PM   #16459
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I cried.

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Old 03-26-2013, 10:58 PM   #16460
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Got a new toy in the mail today:
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