Why turbo your car and get only 160whp? You can get there NA anyway for 2k.
#41
Do you even OWN a ******* Miata? As moronic as NA mods are, it's pretty common knowledge that a good intake and a good header are #1 and #2 on the list of NA power items. I think you're a ******* idiot because you make ludicrous statements like that, even though you have absolutely no way to back it up.
Compared to the head (or even a cowl intake), the header isn't going to do very much. It's necessary either way. The OEM miata BP exhaust manifold isn't terribly restrictive though.
Oh yeah, a 130dB Miata is totally driveable on the street. :gay:
Yeah you'll be at WOT 7000rpm on the street
1. I refuse to consider a used valvetrain as an even REMOTELY viable used buy. There are certain parts you do not buy used; clutches, spark plugs, and valvetrains are on that list.
That's your own ******* problem, and is one reason why you don't believe it's possible
To do what with, retard? You don't have high-compression pistons, and not even the most aggressive spark map in the world will take advantage of race gas at 9:1 compression.
You can advance the timing past where pump gas is safe, I'm at the limit of pump gas on my BP right now at 18 degrees
You're a new guy in this world, and you are flamboyantly throwing around statements that go against the experiences of DOZENS of people who have been doing this a LOT longer than you have. Find some humility and do a little research before you go tossing around moronic statements like that.
That's just ignorant to say
Compared to the head (or even a cowl intake), the header isn't going to do very much. It's necessary either way. The OEM miata BP exhaust manifold isn't terribly restrictive though.
Oh yeah, a 130dB Miata is totally driveable on the street. :gay:
Yeah you'll be at WOT 7000rpm on the street
1. I refuse to consider a used valvetrain as an even REMOTELY viable used buy. There are certain parts you do not buy used; clutches, spark plugs, and valvetrains are on that list.
That's your own ******* problem, and is one reason why you don't believe it's possible
To do what with, retard? You don't have high-compression pistons, and not even the most aggressive spark map in the world will take advantage of race gas at 9:1 compression.
You can advance the timing past where pump gas is safe, I'm at the limit of pump gas on my BP right now at 18 degrees
You're a new guy in this world, and you are flamboyantly throwing around statements that go against the experiences of DOZENS of people who have been doing this a LOT longer than you have. Find some humility and do a little research before you go tossing around moronic statements like that.
That's just ignorant to say
#59
Oh realy? How so? Let's say he has a welder. He could raise the angle of the runners, giving the air a straighter path to flow. he could get a junk head for say 40 bucks, and grind the tops of all the runners until he finds all his waterjackets, oil jackets, etc. Then, he welds the floors of the runners up, and grinds them all to the shape and area desired. Do this for both intake and exhaust. Then, he can fabricate a new intake manifold that will be made to bolt onto the new raised runners. That alone would give him a 15-20% increase in power everywhere, and substantially increase VE at higer RPM's, as a more equal amount of air can pass through any given point of the seat. Heavily unshrouding the valves will also help the motor breath better. Bowl work will be the most important spot on the head, so it must be done well. I often see heads that say they have head the bowls blended, but indeed, they are not done properly.
#60
Edit: about that 4% rule, that's just common knowledge I've aquired. It's in my book on scientific design of exhaust and intake systems, as well as Corky's book Supercharged, and in my How to Build, modify and powertune cylinder heads book. I'm surprised you've never heard it. Seems like someone who so eagerly will tell others what does and dosn't work would know these fundamentals.