Why turbo your car and get only 160whp? You can get there NA anyway for 2k. - Page 3 - Miata Turbo Forum - Boost cars, acquire cats.

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Old 01-17-2008, 12:44 AM   #41
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Do you even OWN a ******* Miata? As moronic as NA mods are, it's pretty common knowledge that a good intake and a good header are #1 and #2 on the list of NA power items. I think you're a ******* idiot because you make ludicrous statements like that, even though you have absolutely no way to back it up.


Compared to the head (or even a cowl intake), the header isn't going to do very much. It's necessary either way. The OEM miata BP exhaust manifold isn't terribly restrictive though.

Oh yeah, a 130dB Miata is totally driveable on the street. :gay:

Yeah you'll be at WOT 7000rpm on the street

1. I refuse to consider a used valvetrain as an even REMOTELY viable used buy. There are certain parts you do not buy used; clutches, spark plugs, and valvetrains are on that list.

That's your own ******* problem, and is one reason why you don't believe it's possible

To do what with, retard? You don't have high-compression pistons, and not even the most aggressive spark map in the world will take advantage of race gas at 9:1 compression.

You can advance the timing past where pump gas is safe, I'm at the limit of pump gas on my BP right now at 18 degrees

You're a new guy in this world, and you are flamboyantly throwing around statements that go against the experiences of DOZENS of people who have been doing this a LOT longer than you have. Find some humility and do a little research before you go tossing around moronic statements like that.

That's just ignorant to say
.
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Old 01-17-2008, 12:46 AM   #42
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Vtec dosn't change the timing of the engine. It changes the lift and duration of the camshafts. Do your research. I-Vtec or something like that changes valve timing, as well as lift and duration.
Variable Valve Timing and Lift Electronic Control
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Old 01-17-2008, 12:46 AM   #43
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Your going to have to have a good engine management system to meet your goals. A MS I kit and wideband would do fine, and are affordable. You also going to know how to tune a car well.
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Old 01-17-2008, 12:46 AM   #44
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Variable Valve Timing and Lift Electronic Control
Semantics aside, it's just a tool to use for street cars and that's all.
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Old 01-17-2008, 12:47 AM   #45
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But it doesn't change the valve timing, right?
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Old 01-17-2008, 12:49 AM   #46
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this thread could get very good
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Old 01-17-2008, 12:49 AM   #47
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Savington you've lost this argument. What it comes down to is YOU not being able to do it. It's possible to do.
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Old 01-17-2008, 12:50 AM   #48
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Anything's possible, baby!~
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Old 01-17-2008, 12:50 AM   #49
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Variable Valve Timing and Lift Electronic Control
Vtec can only switch between two select profiles. I can not adjust cam timming, such as reducing overlap for improved idle, increased overlap at high RPM's, etc. That's what I-vtec does, is adjust the cams timming.
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Old 01-17-2008, 12:51 AM   #50
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Does VTEC do variable valve timing?
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Old 01-17-2008, 12:52 AM   #51
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Anything's possible, baby!~
Someone in the grassroots motorsports $2007 challenge built a c4 corvette with twin turbos and a sucker fan. Resourcefulness goes a LONG way

Which is why if you can't build a 160hp NA BP for under 2 grand you just didn't try hard enough.
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Old 01-17-2008, 12:52 AM   #52
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What? By your logic, a 7:1 motor only makes 12% less power than a 10:1 motor. Where did you come up with the 4%?
Yeap, 12%, and that's the max. What do you mean, you don't know? How could you tell somebody to change there compression if you don't know what effect it will have?
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Old 01-17-2008, 12:52 AM   #53
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Savington you've lost this argument. What it comes down to is YOU not being able to do it. It's possible to do.
A stock BP makes 105whp. You're a retard if you think headwork is going to increase the power of that motor by over 40%.
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Old 01-17-2008, 12:53 AM   #54
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Someone in the grassroots motorsports $2007 challenge built a c4 corvette with twin turbos and a sucker fan. Resourcefulness goes a LONG way
And it broke down after 2 runs, too. I can make a Briggs and Stratton lawn-mower engine produce 50hp on a dyno for about 20 seconds. Doesn't mean it will do it every day.
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Old 01-17-2008, 12:54 AM   #55
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A stock BP makes 105whp. You're a retard if you think headwork is going to increase the power of that motor by over 40%.
It's not just headwork. When the head flows more it makes every other engine modification more effective. All the motor does move air around, the more air you move the more power it makes. It's not complicated.
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Old 01-17-2008, 12:55 AM   #56
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Yeap, 12%, and that's the max. What do you mean, you don't know? How could you tell somebody to change there compression if you don't know what effect it will have?
You didn't answer my question. Where did you get the 4% number?
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Old 01-17-2008, 12:55 AM   #57
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And it broke down after 2 runs, too. I can make a Briggs and Stratton lawn-mower engine produce 50hp on a dyno for about 20 seconds. Doesn't mean it will do it every day.
I never guaranteed the longevity of said 160hp BP, although if it was tuned well I don't see why it wouldn't hold up.
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Old 01-17-2008, 12:58 AM   #58
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What the **** ever, you tool. Go have fun making 270whp with a fuel pressure regulator and a distributor in your front-wheel-drive shitbox.
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Old 01-17-2008, 01:00 AM   #59
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A stock BP makes 105whp. You're a retard if you think headwork is going to increase the power of that motor by over 40%.
Oh realy? How so? Let's say he has a welder. He could raise the angle of the runners, giving the air a straighter path to flow. he could get a junk head for say 40 bucks, and grind the tops of all the runners until he finds all his waterjackets, oil jackets, etc. Then, he welds the floors of the runners up, and grinds them all to the shape and area desired. Do this for both intake and exhaust. Then, he can fabricate a new intake manifold that will be made to bolt onto the new raised runners. That alone would give him a 15-20% increase in power everywhere, and substantially increase VE at higer RPM's, as a more equal amount of air can pass through any given point of the seat. Heavily unshrouding the valves will also help the motor breath better. Bowl work will be the most important spot on the head, so it must be done well. I often see heads that say they have head the bowls blended, but indeed, they are not done properly.
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Old 01-17-2008, 01:02 AM   #60
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What the **** ever, you tool. Go have fun making 270whp with a fuel pressure regulator and a distributor in your front-wheel-drive shitbox.
Sir, your being quite unkind and inconsiderate, and you've made several wrong statements yourself. You don't know as much as you think you know.

Edit: about that 4% rule, that's just common knowledge I've aquired. It's in my book on scientific design of exhaust and intake systems, as well as Corky's book Supercharged, and in my How to Build, modify and powertune cylinder heads book. I'm surprised you've never heard it. Seems like someone who so eagerly will tell others what does and dosn't work would know these fundamentals.
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