http://forum.miata.net/vb/showpost.p...5&postcount=47

There's a lot of stupid **** you've said over there that I've just sort of ignored, but I really want to see you explain that. Exactly HOW do you build a 160whp NA BP for $2k?

 

you take it to fuji racings dyno andget IRTBSIP

 

Alright you ******* dick, I'm sick of you trying to "call me out"

Oh it takes at least 5k to turbo your car? RLY? I'll be making a lot more power than you are on my BP for about $1500

And yes you can build a 160hp NA BP. JUST a good head/cams and exhaust can get you to 150. Raising the rev limit and using more aggressive cams and possibly fuel management could very likely get you to 160hp, especially if you raise the compression ratio, and - or use race gas.

 

you lost my respect. What are u using a 18:1 compression raito with a rev limit of 10000? An exhaust will net you like 4 hp, and maybe 10 for cams and heads. that gets you at 110 115 ish...

 

For about 1500 miles, retard. My **** was expensive because I will be able to get into my car every day for the next 5 years and beat the **** out of it without a care in the world. You will be rewelding downpipes and manifolds and fiddling with subpar engine management until the cows come home. But hey, piggybacks like the PC-Pro are better than the MS anyway, right?

"possibly fuel management" to get to 150whp, eh? You are a reptilian kind of stupid.

 

10 for cam and heads? Um not quite. Even the gude head package gets you close to 150whp on a BP and that's on a totally stock bottom end with god knows what for timing and fuel. What I'm proposing is more serious than that.

 

You might need fuel management, *******, because when you change the ECU crystal it will lean out the car enough to need it especially with all of the other crap you're throwing on there.

Also I don't think I'll need to re-weld a JGS manifold and a good custom downpipe. Also my turbo is going on a FWD car which I have a turbo ECU for. Keep talking ****... Once again I'll be making a lot more power than you for a lot less money.

 

for 2 grand you are not makeing 160WHP. Even with a MS, full porting of the heads and a valve job and the such will cost you a grand and a half, MS is another $400, headers are $200, etc etc your alreasy way over 2 grand. What are u smokeing dude.

 

Give me a parts list for a $2000 160whp NA.

 

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/86-93...spagenameZWDVW




/blasphemy
//delicious, delicious blasphemy.

 

spending $200 on a header. This is why you guys don't think it's possible.

Also porting the head costs as much as a dremel and some bits, not $1000.

 

I was gonna say you could just buy a KL-ZE too

 

Cams, dremel, bits, some kind of exhaust system, RX-7 VAF, ECU crystal, FPR, a few gallons of 103 octane, dyno time with a wideband

If you're doing your own fabrication the sky is the limit. Throw on 4 motorcycle carbs if you want to...

 

yep, and replace it after grenading it from ONE mis-shift due to shitty retainer design.

 

Why would you need 103 octane gas if you don't intend on bumping the compression or controlling timing in any way?

 

inouting now huh? I'll be sure to post the dyno for my shitty $1500 setup with crappy engine management

 

And your going to do a awesome job port and polishing your head with a dremel? And you can do valve jobs youself? You must have some nice equipment and alot of experence.

 

Oh yeah I forgot you guys don't have a disty. It would obviously need timing advance.

 

What do you think machine shops use to port heads? Spinning bits. It's not rocket science.

I never said you can do a valve job on your own, but I don't know if it would be necessary.

 

fir 160 hp without ITBs, your going to have to do a hell of a porting job