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Redline Time Attack/Super Lap Battle rebuild thread

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Old 11-18-2009, 02:52 AM
  #461  
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Originally Posted by magnamx-5
Also i believe that only the 1.6's where optical trigger on the cas, the 1.8's where magnetic or maybe its the other way around, anyway both of them swap pretty much at will with no issues so that might be something to consider if you feel you are loosing resolution, or simply accuracy at the higher end of things.
All year Miata sensors are logic level ones (generating a square wave). Swapping between the optical and the hall effect one won't give you anything ...
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Old 11-18-2009, 04:11 AM
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Originally Posted by JayL
Have you thought about sending your injectors out to get them flow tested to eliminate that as a cause?
I dropped them off today only to find out the place that used to do it locally no longer does it. I'm going to send them off to Witchhunter or some place similar this wee.
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Old 11-18-2009, 08:57 AM
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I'd love to get a proper trigger wheel too. I'm down for a group-buy format so the machinist only has to set up the tooling once.
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Old 11-18-2009, 09:21 AM
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I've run the OEM CAS on my AEM EMS because I'm lazy, knowing there's a lot of spark skatter with the OEM setup just by design, but I don't push my car to the "edge" IMHO. If there were an easy solution for an crank trigger that's work with the AEM I'd go for it as well.

Spark skatter causing #3 cyl to be significantly worse than the others? I doubt it but it definitely doesn't help. Perhaps something catastrophic with that injector.

AEM EMS can trim individual (or all) injectors per EGT(s), or any 5v input(s) (i.e. potentiometer for trimming).

EDIT: and with regards to the knock sensor, when it hears knock (over a user-set threshold based on rpm) I think it knows which cylinder fired and trims timing and/or fuel on that cylinder instead of all of them. I also have it flash my check engine light whenever it senses knock (led bulb helps here)

Last edited by TurboTim; 11-18-2009 at 09:49 AM.
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Old 11-18-2009, 09:37 AM
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I guess its time to sell everything off and buy an M820 and stick it in my daily-driver miata.

WTT: green turbo miata for a $9000 computer.
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Old 11-18-2009, 10:03 AM
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I was just surfin the interwebz and look what I found and who made it onto the speedhunters blog, EVENT>>SUPER LAP CONCLUSION - Speedhunters
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Old 11-18-2009, 06:26 PM
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Originally Posted by j_man
The AMS Performance EVO X (the one which finished first in AWD and second overall at the Redline Finale) is running AEM EMS as far as I know.
Martin (AMS) sez they're running a Motec M800 til the AEM is capable of controlling both cam phasers and the DBW throttle.

But yeah, agreed that not all knock control algos are created equal.
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Old 11-18-2009, 06:51 PM
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Originally Posted by Savington
I dropped them off today only to find out the place that used to do it locally no longer does it. I'm going to send them off to Witchhunter or some place similar this wee.
just send them to rc engineering: RC Fuel Injection

i wish i would have done that. i took mine to a local place and they cleaned them, and looked at the spray pattern. but rc would have sent a flow sheet with them instead of eyeballing it, and i would have felt better about it. cost the same and only saved a day or 2 timewise.

hustler wtf are you talking about? why would you want to get a trigger wheel setup? your gonna leave it at 230whp, and track the **** out of it and that's that. no need for it with what your doing, besides your done with it every other day, you don't need anymore complexity. just stop!
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Old 11-18-2009, 11:58 PM
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Originally Posted by j_man
The AEM EMS can't deal with more than 12 tooth wheel so 60-2 is overkill and to make it work you'll be setting the software to skip the majority of the teeth.
The optimal is to make a 12 tooth wheel out of an OEM one since it will be an OEM like fit. I am still trying to find a machine shop which can cut those 12 teeth in an OEM blank
I didn't know that. Even a 12 tooth crank trigger should be a substantial improvement over any CAS. Draw the plate and I'll get them made.
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Old 11-19-2009, 09:06 AM
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I think there's a good potential market for a bolt on trigger wheel and sensor bracket (w/sensor) setup.
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Old 11-19-2009, 11:33 AM
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Originally Posted by Braineack
I think there's a good potential market for a bolt on trigger wheel and sensor bracket (w/sensor) setup.
No need for a bracket when the wheel is at the OEM position (1.8L engines). Just use the stock '99+ sensor. (That's what I have in my '94 - '99 boss, wheel and sensor - it looks OEM)
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Old 11-19-2009, 11:35 AM
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Originally Posted by emilio700
Draw the plate and I'll get them made.
You mean made from scratch so you'll need something like a model in SolidWorks?
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Old 11-19-2009, 11:54 AM
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Originally Posted by j_man
No need for a bracket when the wheel is at the OEM position (1.8L engines). Just use the stock '99+ sensor. (That's what I have in my '94 - '99 boss, wheel and sensor - it looks OEM)
there are still us 1.6L folks floating around...
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Old 11-19-2009, 03:29 PM
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Originally Posted by j_man
No need for a bracket when the wheel is at the OEM position (1.8L engines). Just use the stock '99+ sensor. (That's what I have in my '94 - '99 boss, wheel and sensor - it looks OEM)
Are you using the entire stock '99 setup (trigger wheel and sensor) or are you using the stock sensor with an aftermarket wheel? Crank triggering is something I'm suddenly extremely interested in.
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Old 11-19-2009, 06:02 PM
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Originally Posted by j_man
You mean made from scratch so you'll need something like a model in SolidWorks?
Yah. Iges or .sldprt. Be sure to call out tolerances. What process to get them accurate? Wire EDM?
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Old 11-19-2009, 06:11 PM
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You guys should have asked to borrow my Vishnu unit sometime over the 2 years I had it before installing it.

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Originally Posted by concealer404
Buy an MSPNP Pro, you'll feel better.
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Old 11-19-2009, 06:11 PM
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Originally Posted by j_man
No need for a bracket when the wheel is at the OEM position (1.8L engines). Just use the stock '99+ sensor. (That's what I have in my '94 - '99 boss, wheel and sensor - it looks OEM)
what about a replacement wheel and sensor that fits inside the stock CAS? i realise that crank triggered is always better than cam triggered, but damn that would make it a piece of cake...
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Old 11-19-2009, 06:15 PM
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additional tooth count does little to increase resolution, compared to the major source of error, which is the timing belt.
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Originally Posted by concealer404
Buy an MSPNP Pro, you'll feel better.
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Old 11-19-2009, 06:17 PM
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And twisting camshafts.
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Old 11-19-2009, 06:18 PM
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absolutely.
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