All year Miata sensors are logic level ones (generating a square wave). Swapping between the optical and the hall effect one won't give you anything ...

 

I dropped them off today only to find out the place that used to do it locally no longer does it. I'm going to send them off to Witchhunter or some place similar this wee.

 

I'd love to get a proper trigger wheel too. I'm down for a group-buy format so the machinist only has to set up the tooling once.

 

I've run the OEM CAS on my AEM EMS because I'm lazy, knowing there's a lot of spark skatter with the OEM setup just by design, but I don't push my car to the "edge" IMHO. If there were an easy solution for an crank trigger that's work with the AEM I'd go for it as well.

Spark skatter causing #3 cyl to be significantly worse than the others? I doubt it but it definitely doesn't help. Perhaps something catastrophic with that injector.

AEM EMS can trim individual (or all) injectors per EGT(s), or any 5v input(s) (i.e. potentiometer for trimming).

EDIT: and with regards to the knock sensor, when it hears knock (over a user-set threshold based on rpm) I think it knows which cylinder fired and trims timing and/or fuel on that cylinder instead of all of them. I also have it flash my check engine light whenever it senses knock (led bulb helps here)

 

I guess its time to sell everything off and buy an M820 and stick it in my daily-driver miata.

WTT: green turbo miata for a $9000 computer.

 

I was just surfin the interwebz and look what I found and who made it onto the speedhunters blog, EVENT>>SUPER LAP CONCLUSION - Speedhunters

 

Martin (AMS) sez they're running a Motec M800 til the AEM is capable of controlling both cam phasers and the DBW throttle.

But yeah, agreed that not all knock control algos are created equal.

 

just send them to rc engineering: RC Fuel Injection

i wish i would have done that. i took mine to a local place and they cleaned them, and looked at the spray pattern. but rc would have sent a flow sheet with them instead of eyeballing it, and i would have felt better about it. cost the same and only saved a day or 2 timewise.

hustler wtf are you talking about? why would you want to get a trigger wheel setup? your gonna leave it at 230whp, and track the **** out of it and that's that. no need for it with what your doing, besides your done with it every other day, you don't need anymore complexity. just stop!

 

I didn't know that. Even a 12 tooth crank trigger should be a substantial improvement over any CAS. Draw the plate and I'll get them made.

 

I think there's a good potential market for a bolt on trigger wheel and sensor bracket (w/sensor) setup.

 

No need for a bracket when the wheel is at the OEM position (1.8L engines). Just use the stock '99+ sensor. (That's what I have in my '94 - '99 boss, wheel and sensor - it looks OEM)

 

You mean made from scratch so you'll need something like a model in SolidWorks?

 

there are still us 1.6L folks floating around...

 

Are you using the entire stock '99 setup (trigger wheel and sensor) or are you using the stock sensor with an aftermarket wheel? Crank triggering is something I'm suddenly extremely interested in.

 

Yah. Iges or .sldprt. Be sure to call out tolerances. What process to get them accurate? Wire EDM?

 

You guys should have asked to borrow my Vishnu unit sometime over the 2 years I had it before installing it.

 

what about a replacement wheel and sensor that fits inside the stock CAS? i realise that crank triggered is always better than cam triggered, but damn that would make it a piece of cake...

 

additional tooth count does little to increase resolution, compared to the major source of error, which is the timing belt.

 

And twisting camshafts.

 

absolutely.