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I'm laughing because the original questions asked in this thread were asked again by me a couple months ago almost verbatim. I will have to re-read this thread now.
Btw, I THINK I have modified my MSpnpPro to get operational VCTS, Clutch/launch, Charcoal cannister purge, etc. If I don't see the answers in this thread when I am done catching up I will post the instructions. If not, it's in my build thread.
I'm in the process of tuning my DIY Autotune MSM PnP-Pro and would like to point out an error with the default MAP provided by DIY Autotune - this thread seems like a good place to consolidate this type of info.
The PWM Idle Control Valve frequency was set to 383Hz which I believe is the NA value for the valve - the NB uses a different valve.
On Adaptronic ECUs, this needs to be set to 500Hz on NBs and researching on the net indicates that for NBs using a Megasquirt it should be set to 511Hz.
Is this a big issue and has anyone found any other errors with the default MAP?
My current tune on my MSM is running PWM Idle Control Valve Frequency of 383Hz. What would changing this to 511Hz do to this tune?
Changing the idle valve frequency will just potentially change the duty cycle values you need for certain idle RPMs. You might need to retune all idles, open and closed loop.
511hz is faster than 383hz, so the valve might require less duty cycle to pass the same airflow or something like that. Or it might need more, the valve does have mass and resists movement a bit.
Really, if it is working for you already don't change it. If you run a frequency too far out of spec for the valve it might not have a big enough linear section of duty cycle to use CL idle right, in my 1.6NA idle valve experience. You might want to change it then.
NA also likes ~170hz or 153? or whatevers closest. It's also wrong for the NA basemap too.
I'm curious if anyone actually tested and/or knows the valve freq of the NB? Not a guess, not "this worked for me", but the real deal.
I believe we discussed this YEARS ago when setting up our very first production adaptronics, but totally forgot what we ended up with. I'll check my notes (if I still have them) when I'm bored. I know that at least one of the vendors (I believe Rev, or maybe even DIY) specifically states in their instructions NOT to ever touch the valve freq from what it's set to originally.
I'm curious if anyone actually tested and/or knows the valve freq of the NB? Not a guess, not "this worked for me", but the real deal.
I believe we discussed this YEARS ago when setting up our very first production adaptronics, but totally forgot what we ended up with. I'll check my notes (if I still have them) when I'm bored. I know that at least one of the vendors (I believe Rev, or maybe even DIY) specifically states in their instructions NOT to ever touch the valve freq from what it's set to originally.
I'm curious if anyone actually tested and/or knows the valve freq of the NB? Not a guess, not "this worked for me", but the real deal.
I believe we discussed this YEARS ago when setting up our very first production adaptronics, but totally forgot what we ended up with. I'll check my notes (if I still have them) when I'm bored. I know that at least one of the vendors (I believe Rev, or maybe even DIY) specifically states in their instructions NOT to ever touch the valve freq from what it's set to originally.
Rev, have you ever had issues with the idle valve buzzing pre-startup? I've been a bit reluctant to play around with the valve frequency because it affects idle etc, but mine is set to 511hz on an NB1 and it buzzes like crazy sometimes. Well, atleast brain and I think that's what is doing the buzzing. I can't locate it 100% but with the key in the 'on' position, I definitely localize it to the intake manifold side of the engine bay.
There is a setting to turn off the IAC valve until start in engaged. I have done so and have seen no downsides. By the time sync occurs and therefore ignition and fueling, the valve is at the starting position. Set this to OFF.
There is a setting to turn off the IAC valve until start in engaged. I have done so and have seen no downsides. By the time sync occurs and therefore ignition and fueling, the valve is at the starting position. Set this to OFF.
Thank you gents. I was under the impression at first that it was the fuel pump but was able to confirm with a friend that the fuel pump was priming and turning itself off.
DNM, I just set it to off on startup and hopefully it fixes ish!
Side note: Are those your settings? Which year has a 75hz idle valve freq?
Thank you gents. I was under the impression at first that it was the fuel pump but was able to confirm with a friend that the fuel pump was priming and turning itself off.
DNM, I just set it to off on startup and hopefully it fixes ish!
Side note: Are those your settings? Which year has a 75hz idle valve freq?
Not my settings. That was an illustrative example pulled straight from the MS-Lite Manual, just to show you where that setting can be found.
And I'm not saying it's broken. I'm only pointing out that you can turn it off if you wish, and that is what I have done with no discernible negatives.
Thank you both. I never heard that sound with the stock ECU. It's incredibly hard to miss when it's on. It's quite jarring. Made for a pretty painful experience when I was first setting things up and making changes to the MS with the key in the 'ON' position.
How is everyones idle on a heatsoaked restart? Good drive on car, park let set for awhile and then start back up to a surging idle until you get down the road some.
How is everyones idle on a heatsoaked restart? Good drive on car, park let set for awhile and then start back up to a surging idle until you get down the road some.
you disable MAT corrections for starters... then you cry about fuel heatsoak
mine was totally fine. you might need some more closed loop idle tuning as well as running the idle maps slightly fat and letting ego corr pull it up as needed.
08-20-2016, 01:03 PM
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