94 DIYPNP Build with pictures and questions
05-03-2010, 03:24 PM
#21
Junior Member
Thread Starter
iTrader: (7)
Join Date: May 2007
Location: Socal
Posts: 332
Total Cats: 0
The tps calibrates now. I fixed it via resoldering the tps and vref.
The 65k issue fixed itself when I reloaded the basemap. Note to self: CALIBRATE YOUR SENSORS BEFORE STARTING UP. I forgot to do that when I reloaded the basemap, and I was wondering why the car catches but doesn't start.
The car idles perfect. Just like stock. The next issue here is my car's rpm gauge reads about 1k rpm too high. What's the issue here?
Secondly, the coolant temp is running high (250 degrees!) while idling. My fans aren't kicking on. What should I be checking?
Thanks guys!
PS: I love learning this stuff!
Reply
0
0
05-03-2010, 04:04 PM
#22
Or you may need to flash you EasyTherm values to calibrate the CLT and MAT temp sensors.
Fans are controlled by MS? They should have come on. Make sure the output you are using for them is set properly.
--Alex
Reply
0
0
05-03-2010, 04:12 PM
#23
Junior Member
Thread Starter
iTrader: (7)
Join Date: May 2007
Location: Socal
Posts: 332
Total Cats: 0
Wow! 250º! That is way too hot. I hope you shut it down! How was it running before? Anything else happen that could make it run hot? How long was it running like that?
Or you may need to flash you EasyTherm values to calibrate the CLT and MAT temp sensors.
Fans are controlled by MS? They should have come on. Make sure the output you are using for them is set properly.
--Alex
Or you may need to flash you EasyTherm values to calibrate the CLT and MAT temp sensors.
Fans are controlled by MS? They should have come on. Make sure the output you are using for them is set properly.
--Alex
This is what I soldered:
Relay 1 Mainboard PA0 ConnectorBoard 1L Radiator Fan
I don't have to make any software changes for the fans to come on automatically, right? I hope it's just a solder problem.
What temp is the radiator fan supposed to kick on?
Reply
0
0
05-04-2010, 03:26 PM
#25
Junior Member
Thread Starter
iTrader: (7)
Join Date: May 2007
Location: Socal
Posts: 332
Total Cats: 0
So for noobs out there, this is the instructions for the build according to DIY:
"You can configure the fan activation in TunerStudio from the 'Extended > Output Ports Settings' Menu."
You HAVE to configure it. By default, the PA0 is off. Enable it. Set output channel to coolant. Next field over set to >. Threshold is the temp when you want your fans to turn on. I have it at 200 now. Hystersis is the value minus the activation temp in which the fans will turn off. In which case, I set mine to "10" so the fans will turn off at 190 degrees.
I talked to Matt, and he said my stock tach on the car is reading wrong and it's not due to the diypnp because the 94's tach isn't controlled by the ecu.
Reply
0
0
05-04-2010, 11:17 PM
#26
Junior Member
Thread Starter
iTrader: (7)
Join Date: May 2007
Location: Socal
Posts: 332
Total Cats: 0
And.... I drove the car around for the a bit. I noticed that the tach reads correctly (matching the TS rpm) when I am on the throttle. In high vacuum, the tach reads 1k rpm high again. I don't know how the stock tach works, so I don't know why it would read correctly only when I am on the throttle. My instinct is telling me it must have something to do with the manifold pressure and the vacuum tee to the map sensor on the diypnp.
Reply
0
0
05-06-2010, 10:27 AM
#30
Junior Member
Thread Starter
iTrader: (7)
Join Date: May 2007
Location: Socal
Posts: 332
Total Cats: 0
Been looking up an easy way to connect the wideband to the diypnp. Any suggestions?
From the looks of it, I'll have to jumper the 02 sensor to the db15 instead of 4N from DIY instructions.
From the looks of it, I'll have to jumper the 02 sensor to the db15 instead of 4N from DIY instructions.
Reply
0
0
05-06-2010, 11:07 AM
#33
Boost Czar
iTrader: (62)
Join Date: May 2005
Location: Chantilly, VA
Posts: 79,509
Total Cats: 4,080
I haven't built one db15 the same yet.
for Turotufus's I gave him a sensor ground and 12v source to power his LC-1 and the input, and I just ran the jumper back to the o2 jumper hole.
something like this:
the o2 hole is blank, i wired it after the picture.
for Turotufus's I gave him a sensor ground and 12v source to power his LC-1 and the input, and I just ran the jumper back to the o2 jumper hole.
something like this:
the o2 hole is blank, i wired it after the picture.
Reply
0
0
05-06-2010, 11:40 AM
#34
Junior Member
Thread Starter
iTrader: (7)
Join Date: May 2007
Location: Socal
Posts: 332
Total Cats: 0
This is how I am going to wire it:
-The two red 12v and pink 12v will be wired to the same 12v power supply from the dash (probably from the radio harness)
-Two black wires grounded on the same ground in the dash
-White will get connect to db15, which will connect to O2 signal on the mainboard
-brown will go to db15, which will connect to ground on the mainboard.
- grey will go in the dimmer
For those wondering, this is an AEM analog UEGO WB.
-The two red 12v and pink 12v will be wired to the same 12v power supply from the dash (probably from the radio harness)
-Two black wires grounded on the same ground in the dash
-White will get connect to db15, which will connect to O2 signal on the mainboard
-brown will go to db15, which will connect to ground on the mainboard.
- grey will go in the dimmer
For those wondering, this is an AEM analog UEGO WB.
Reply
0
0
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
bigmackloud
Miata parts for sale/trade
19
01-08-2021 11:24 AM
