Saml01

iTrader: (9)

Question, why is it advantageous or less complicated to have the factory ecu control something and the MS control something else? Maybe I missed it but what is each ECU's responsability?

Question on your harness. Did you wire the DB37 in parallel as it goes to the ecu or did you cut the wires that the DB37 is routed to? hard to see, thats why I ask.

Splitime

iTrader: (24)

I have q6 and q8 in.... and I wasn't getting spark with the DIY setup. I switched to the format Neo sent me... which is the same as yours Brains.... and I get spark.

I did happen to start killing my ignitor though... the maps I've used are 4.5 dwell. I lost tach... car runs, just no tach.

Braineack

iTrader: (62)

The ecu is only now responsible for the Fans and the Idle valve. It's just the way it was done for a while, and it's works. But it's easy enough to give all the control to the MS.

There are a few leads cut that the ECU doesnt see...like the spark output, the rest are still shared.

weird, when i poke around with the multimeter it gets the signal, so it should work, havent tried it yet, but i trust it should.

r29 and r26 bring it to the middle post of q8 and q6, which bring it to resistors that your put to the LEDs.

Pulling the resistors and running it where it is gets the signal before all the reisistors and the transistors basically.

Are you running non-inverted or inverted spark? I was running inverted this whole with the output like you curenntly have. had no trouble for a few months before i decided to go kill my car.

Splitime

iTrader: (24)

I'm unsure if I am inverted or not. I believe it is Non... its default from the maps I've tried. AL's and Akayreyre's. 4.5 dwell in both for crank/idle and I believe Inverted is OFF.

I wonder if their maps don't get along with the DIY mods... then I went the other board mods and it works.... but it's frying my ignitor.

Braineack

iTrader: (62)

mines always cold to the touch after driving, so i dunno. I modded mine back to DIYs way to run non-inverted, since I know that's how they reccomend doing it with their mod. always running 5.0ms dwell startup and 4ms running.

grippgoat

iTrader: (1)

Are you running piggyback, or full standalone? And did the tach ever work with the megasquirt?

On the 94, the wire from the coil goes to the tach, but it also goes into the ECU, where something happens (resistor to ground I think). But in any case, with my megasquirt on standalone, the tach did not work until we put (I believe) a 1K resistor across the tach and ground pins in the diagnostic port. Later I fried my coils (at some point the megasquirts settings got fubar'd so my dwell was way wrong). I've since turned to just running 2000 coils (since I had a set), and I drive the tach with the tacho output mod described in the MSnSE page.

-Mike

Matt Cramer

They're a fairly normal NPN transistor rated at 200 mA, nothing fancy. You can probably find something that fits the bill at Radio Shack.

Splitime

iTrader: (24)

I had a tach for a bit with MS running. RPM still is working within MS also.

reddroptop

iTrader: (4)

Thanks Mike, I needed this info. Will try later tonight.

grippgoat

iTrader: (1)

I'd suggest building the tacho output circuit. You can get the stuff at radio shack, and it works like a charm. Then you don't have a ghetto resistor in your diagnostic port, and you can run any coils from 94-2000. Tach is pin 2i on the 94 harness, Black with White stripe.

http://megasquirt.sourceforge.net/extra/tachopin.html

-Mike

akaryrye

iTrader: (5)

tach works fine for me, i have been running full standalone for awhile now too. the 1.6 coil directly drives the tach on the dashboard.