Ben

iTrader: (33)

microsquirt based DIYPNP running MS2 3.0.3i with sequential piggy card

Unit ran fine in standalone with 2.1.1b. I built a boomslang harness to run the MS parallel with the stock computer, upgraded the firmware, and installed the sequential card. I removed the opto and vr pulldown resistors as part of the parallel build. My boomslang harness tones out perfect.

The stock computer will still start the car, pig rich, and run it for a few seconds before the car stalls.

The stock computer with MS in parallel will not start the car. I have no rpm reading in tunerstudio and have no activity on the tooth logger. All other readings look correct. Tried both rising and falling edge.

On the 3-wire CAS pigtail, I have 5V, 12V, and ground like I'm supposed to.

Kind of stumped here, and a little frustrated. Car hasn't run in a month and I'm punchy because it's a gorgeous day today...

Suggestions?

Marc D

iTrader: (7)

since its in running in parallel, on your cam/crank circuit, did you pull out the "pull-up"?

I just remember reading that on the circuit, the stock ECU already does a 5V pullup.

Ben

iTrader: (33)

I removed the opto and vr pulldown resistors as part of the parallel build.

Ben

iTrader: (33)

I am considering reinstalling the pulldowns and trying standalone again. It should work, but I'd have no idle valve control (no big deal) and no cooling fan control (no big deal if not run long).

Only problem is my stock harness' connector clips are becoming very unhappy with all this in and out.

Oh, I won't have alternator regulation either. I pulled that circuit out of the MS.

Braineack

iTrader: (62)

Not sure how the DIYPNP acutally differs, but when i build a standalone or piggyback, the only difference in the board in the idle mod and AIT and CLT bias resistors. Everything else lies in the harness.

Ben

iTrader: (33)

I burned off the CLT resistor.

You're saying you leave on the ignition pulldowns?

Marc D

iTrader: (7)

I thought they were supposed to be pulled out when running in parallel.

Well, that sucks you cant get it to run in parallel. That would be awesome if it would work properly. I had nothing but problems on MSI when I was running parallel.

Ben

iTrader: (33)

Yes, you're supposed to leave off the pulldowns in parallel.

I will go to a trigger wheel that overlays the crank if this is not successful. I wanted to make it work though, so other people could copy.

Braineack

iTrader: (62)

All I do is cut the signal back to the oem ECU so it can't do anything with it.

So lets say I have spark A and B on pin 24 & 25 on the db37, I'll run them out the harness to the yellow connector on the boomslang to where they need to go, but I wont have a wire from the yellow connector back to the gray plug to plug back into the oem ecu...

I do it for the injectors as well.

Ben

iTrader: (33)

Ok, well my install differs because I need the computer to read the signals to not throw codes.

Speaking of which. I reinstalled the pulldowns for opto and vr. Car will start and run for a few seconds. When it's running, it runs very well. I want to note that it has never started as easily as it does now. I don't know why it shuts off exactly, but I assume that it has to do with the stock computer not turning the fuel pump on after prime because...

I get codes
P1345 Cylinder Discrimination Signal from CMP Sensor
P0335 Crankshaft Position Sensor A Circuit
And the tach doesn't work.

So I assume the stock computer gets no signal from the motor, doesn't run the fuel pump, and doesn't run the tach.

So either I need to find different value pulldowns or I just need to give up using the stock sensors and install a trigger wheel.

I really want it to work off stock sensors, just to prove it can do so, but it might be smart to abandon it. Hmm.

Braineack

iTrader: (62)

Ask y8s how he got his Hydra running parallel.

Jfornachon

iTrader: (23)

I am somewhat retarted when it comes to electronics, but can't both use the same signals? Esnetially running it in parallel not series. Thsi is why I would pay to have someome build me a board.

Have a great day,
Jared

Ben

iTrader: (33)

It should work, but that doesn't mean it does.

I think I'll just use the trigger wheel. I'd be grateful to anyone who knows how to hook it up to the microsquirt and what changes to make in my .msq. It's a 2 wire sensor.

Zaphod

Hi Ben,

maybe you should ask Abe, how he has designed his circuit for the MS2 (pull-up values), because I am running this circuit in parallel with the stock ECU with no probs. I know it is different to Microsquirt, but as the stock ECU still sees the sensors - the pull-up values should be good.

Greets

Ben

iTrader: (33)

The 60-2 wheel and pickup are installed. I believe it is a VR sensor, and it looks like I hook up the 2 wires to VR+ and VR- and don't use any pulldowns, use "toothed wheel" as my ignition set up and then enter the wheel's info in "trigger wheel settings".

I'll give that a shot.

Ben

iTrader: (33)

It's installed. I can see the teeth on the logger. Car acts like it wants to start, but it doesn't. Have fuel and spark.

Uggh.

Side note. Spark from the LS2 truck coils = OMG

Ben

iTrader: (33)

Here's what it looks like now. You'll note that empty 100' spool of wire. That's on top of the wire that came with the kit + I've opened a second spool of 100' wire to run some extra leads from the motor to under the dash (extra grounds, triggers for individual coils, 2 wires for the new crank sensor)



New crank sensor

AbeFM

iTrader: (3)

Huh. I didn't know you were running in parallel! :-) Do you have the pull-up on yours, too? I would think I'd have told you to leave it off, had you asked. :-)