Megasquirt PNP Pro repair
#22
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Looking back into the pinout here MegaSquirtPNP by DIYAutoTune.com I can see that connector 2 has pin 2I (alternator field) and pin 2K(alternator voltage ref), which are for controling the alternator I assume. I did not wire these up to anything
#23
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Looking back into the pinout here MegaSquirtPNP by DIYAutoTune.com I can see that connector 2 has pin 2I (alternator field) and pin 2K(alternator voltage ref), which are for controling the alternator I assume. I did not wire these up to anything
If you just want to get up and running, swap on your older 1.8 NA alternator and run the MS2. It will control the engine fine. VVT just will not be enabled. Then once you get your MSPro back then you can work on getting VVT working.
#24
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You are assuming correctly I would bet.
If you just want to get up and running, swap on your older 1.8 NA alternator and run the MS2. It will control the engine fine. VVT just will not be enabled. Then once you get your MSPro back then you can work on getting VVT working.
If you just want to get up and running, swap on your older 1.8 NA alternator and run the MS2. It will control the engine fine. VVT just will not be enabled. Then once you get your MSPro back then you can work on getting VVT working.
#25
Thanks for the Cat!
I am running two VVT swaps with DIYPNP and VVTuner's in my cars at the moment. A '90 with a VVT motor in my Racecar and a VVT motor in my '99 daily. On the NA, I am running a NA8 (1.8) alternator. On the the '99 I am running a stock '99+ alternator, but I have the voltage regulator circuit built into the DIYPNP. You can use the MS2, and leave the VVT soleniod unplugged as stated. It stays at fully retarded, which only really affects the mid-range.
I am running two VVT swaps with DIYPNP and VVTuner's in my cars at the moment. A '90 with a VVT motor in my Racecar and a VVT motor in my '99 daily. On the NA, I am running a NA8 (1.8) alternator. On the the '99 I am running a stock '99+ alternator, but I have the voltage regulator circuit built into the DIYPNP. You can use the MS2, and leave the VVT soleniod unplugged as stated. It stays at fully retarded, which only really affects the mid-range.
#27
I'm in the same boat - internally dead MS2 built by Reverant. Can't get in touch with Peter so far and nobody else is able/willing to repair.. Matt at DYI has been great with quick email replies, but they wouldn't touch Reverant-built stuff. Dimitris is not responding.
This is so frustrating. What to do? Buy a PnP and try to move the tune over? The problem should be fixable, the unit randomly reporting 18V and shuts down, while the actual input voltage is stead 12V (well, 13V or so) via voltmeter. R3 and R6 had been checked, R3 replaced just in case - no difference.
This is so frustrating. What to do? Buy a PnP and try to move the tune over? The problem should be fixable, the unit randomly reporting 18V and shuts down, while the actual input voltage is stead 12V (well, 13V or so) via voltmeter. R3 and R6 had been checked, R3 replaced just in case - no difference.
#28
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I'm in the same boat - internally dead MS2 built by Reverant. Can't get in touch with Peter so far and nobody else is able/willing to repair.. Matt at DYI has been great with quick email replies, but they wouldn't touch Reverant-built stuff. Dimitris is not responding.
This is so frustrating. What to do? Buy a PnP and try to move the tune over? The problem should be fixable, the unit randomly reporting 18V and shuts down, while the actual input voltage is stead 12V (well, 13V or so) via voltmeter. R3 and R6 had been checked, R3 replaced just in case - no difference.
This is so frustrating. What to do? Buy a PnP and try to move the tune over? The problem should be fixable, the unit randomly reporting 18V and shuts down, while the actual input voltage is stead 12V (well, 13V or so) via voltmeter. R3 and R6 had been checked, R3 replaced just in case - no difference.
#31
You really should be using hardware alternator control. Every time you have a voltage spike you're a step closer to damaging your MS. As injector dead time is directly related to battery voltage, your AFR will change with battery voltage (unless set your dead time to voltage 100% correctly - but how do you find out?). IOW, switching on your headlights, A/C or even winding up your windows can cause voltage swings with a corresponding AFR swing.
#33
I'm in the same boat - internally dead MS2 built by Reverant. Can't get in touch with Peter so far and nobody else is able/willing to repair.. Matt at DYI has been great with quick email replies, but they wouldn't touch Reverant-built stuff. Dimitris is not responding.
This is so frustrating. What to do? Buy a PnP and try to move the tune over? The problem should be fixable, the unit randomly reporting 18V and shuts down, while the actual input voltage is stead 12V (well, 13V or so) via voltmeter. R3 and R6 had been checked, R3 replaced just in case - no difference.
This is so frustrating. What to do? Buy a PnP and try to move the tune over? The problem should be fixable, the unit randomly reporting 18V and shuts down, while the actual input voltage is stead 12V (well, 13V or so) via voltmeter. R3 and R6 had been checked, R3 replaced just in case - no difference.
#34
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Yesterday afternoon I swapped over to a NA 94-97 alternator, I also replaced my front headlights and all 4 turn signal bulbs. I plugged in my MSPNP2, and updated to the most current firmware. I am still not using a CAS on the exhaust cam or whatever the older way of running these engines was, should I have to since VVT will stay disconnected for now? The wiring stayed the same for the most part expect a few things. The signal wire for my crank sensor is now connected to 2E(white) on the main ECU harness and cam signal is connected to 2G(yellow/blue) on the same harness. I also connected INJ 1/3 to 2U(yellow) on the main ECU harness and INJ 2/4 to 2V(yellow/black) on the same harness, so now they should be wired in batchfire. It looks like my MTX-L wideband got fried when the ECU went, so I have another one on the way, should be here soon. I believe I have everything wired up correctly, can someone confirm this? Also is there a basemap that I can use to start the VVT engine? There is one for the MSPNP Pro, but I did not see one for the MSPNP2. Can I use the base map for a 99-00 or does someone here have a map I can use to compare and hopefully get me atleast started?
#36
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What should my ignition settings look like? on the MSPNP pro I had Miata 99-05 as spark mode, but the MSPNP2 only has miata 99-00 . Should I use 99-00 or 4G63 which I think I used to use on my 1.6 when I had a CAS. Ignition input capture is falling edge. spark output is going high. and it is set as wasted spark for batch fire.
#38
GND and 12V for the NB sensors did not change only wired the SIG wire to the trigger wires at the main ECU harness. I had a spare battery that I am using. Didn't even bother with my old one, pretty sure it's messed up.
What should my ignition settings look like? on the MSPNP pro I had Miata 99-05 as spark mode, but the MSPNP2 only has miata 99-00 . Should I use 99-00 or 4G63 which I think I used to use on my 1.6 when I had a CAS. Ignition input capture is falling edge. spark output is going high. and it is set as wasted spark for batch fire.
What should my ignition settings look like? on the MSPNP pro I had Miata 99-05 as spark mode, but the MSPNP2 only has miata 99-00 . Should I use 99-00 or 4G63 which I think I used to use on my 1.6 when I had a CAS. Ignition input capture is falling edge. spark output is going high. and it is set as wasted spark for batch fire.
Your ECU came back and is on our solder tech's desk now.
#39
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I was able to get it to start and idle roughly on the MSPNP2 last Friday, but I didn't do much else since my MTX-L wideband also got fried and I did not want to tune blindly. I am receiving a replacement today and will try to get a good idle. I'm still trying to make it to MRLS this weekend.
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