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Old 08-16-2016, 02:49 PM   #1
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Default Car won't start with or without Megasquirt - Fried CAS?

Over the last few days, I've been messing around trying to get my car to start on my DIYPNP 1.5. The main problem I had been having is it would not receive an RPM signal. So I would give up, throw back in the stock ECU and start it up just fine and drive it. Yesterday, I finally got it working - all the inputs were working including the RPM signal, and the car even started up when I asked it to (though it did not run great). It was getting late, so I put it down, threw back in the stock ECU, and drove the car home. Then today, I put the megasquirt back in to tune it and it would not get the RPM signal, and therefore would not start. I was messing around with the settings, trying different maps, searching the forums for similar problems. I eventually gave up, threw back in the stock ECU, and when I tried to start it, it fired up for about half a second before quitting.

While it was running, the car was actually not getting an RPM signal at the gauge, and when I tried starting it up again, it would not fire up. I disconnected and reconnected the CAS, tried starting it up, and it did the same thing again - fired up briefly with no RPM display and quit. Did I f*** up my CAS? Is there anything I can do to fix it? Please help. My car is a 1990 miata.
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Old 08-16-2016, 03:17 PM   #2
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CASes dont just fry, and never so coincidentally inline with a MS install.

you can actually see your CAS activity on composite logs using tuner studio on the diagnostics tab.


sounds like what you actually did is fry your ignitor due to incorrect settings. those do coincidentally fry inline with a botched MS install.
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Old 08-16-2016, 03:50 PM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Braineack View Post
CASes dont just fry, and never so coincidentally inline with a MS install.

you can actually see your CAS activity on composite logs using tuner studio on the diagnostics tab.


sounds like what you actually did is fry your ignitor due to incorrect settings. those do coincidentally fry inline with a botched MS install.
Is there any way I can test to confirm that the ignitor is broken, and that it is the only thing broken? Then, should I replace it with the OEM one or is there any other option you recommend?
Thanks for taking the time to reply.
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Old 08-17-2016, 10:55 AM   #4
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On a DIYPNP, you can check if it is seeing a good RPM signal while cranking (if so, the CAS is good) and see if it will fire coils in output test mode (if so, your ignitor is fine).
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