I should add the following, which gets emailed to people who ask about it:
The manifold and downpipe was originally made about 3 years ago when first used with two Garrett GT1544's. In Feb 2008 I changed the configuration to use two Garrett GT1548's (larger and water cooled); these are the turbos that are currently used with this setup. So there's less than 2 years on the turbos and about 3 years on the manifold & downpipe. There's just under 8000 miles on the new turbos. The end of the downpipe is a straight 3" pipe, no flange. It slides into my 3" metal core cat which is part of my exhaust. The downpipe is actually two pieces, an upper Y section (two 2.25" pipes into one 3" pipe) then a straight section of 3", to facilitate installation as I remove/install this setup often anytime I make a turbo kit for customers and need my car to build a downpipe on.
I would take $1800 shipped for it. It does require modification to various parts so you have to be good with wrenches and have a sawzall, etc. There's a tab on the transmission that needs to be removed, and the firewall "tray" needs trimming, at the least. I've had so many different turbo setups on my car I do not remember everything I've done in the past 10 years, but I know you'd need to do at least that stuff. And the heater core return hard line to the mixing manifold will need to be modified/bent/rerouted. I can modify yours if you cannot do it yourself.
This is not for someone who is not mechanically inclined. IT IS SOLD AS-IS BECAUSE IT IS A USED SETUP.
The turbos are all good, do not leak oil into the turbine/compressor, have as-new specs on axial and radial endplay, but if you destroy the turbos due to misuse or improper installation I will not refund any money. I will not refund any money for any reason. IT IS SOLD AS-IS BECAUSE IT IS A USED SETUP.
These are sleeve bearing turbos and need to be primed before installation (I squeeze new synthetic oil into each before attaching my pressure line, and start it up within a day or two). Synthetic oil needs to be run.
Dyno plots of when this setup made 287rwhp on my '94 1.8 are located here:
Index of /dynoruns/11-15-08
It is labeled as "Tim Fodor Miata tt". As you can see it does not have the spool/low end torque of the single turbo ABSURDflow/'99 head & intake setups.
You will need to source the oil feed line from the block to the #4AN Y fitting (I am keeping the lower half of my oil feed line for my single turbo setups). You will also need to create intercooler plumbing. The Y pipe from the turbos are included, but it points towards the fender where I have routed my intercooler pipes. You will need to redo this pipe or run your I/C plumbing thru your fender like I did, which is also difficult to do. You will need to put two #8AN oil drain fittings on your oil pan, I can provide pictures of mine for location reference.
I have uploaded more pictures here. NOT included is the little fitting for my EGT gauge; it will be replaced with a 1/8NPT pipe plug:
Low Mount with A/C & P/S
I have attached a .jpg of the last dyno day the car was run on, May 2 of this year. Also attached is the dyno graph from that dyno day with the 287rwhp plot. Car peaked at 15psi at 4400rpm, tapered to 14psi at peak hp. The difference between run 1 @ 274rwhp and run 3 @ 287rwhp was I was able to get the EBC to hold 14psi to redline, run 1 tapered to just under 13psi.
It looks to hit 14psi at 4250 on the dyno. It spools quicker on the street but that's really just hearsay. Single turbo absurdflow GT2560R setups spool much faster.
There's only one O2 bung on the downpipe.