Anybody running a newer FMII kit? Thoughts on the manifold?
#21
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$395 FM mani
http://www.bellengineering.net/produ...products_id=33
$433 BEGI mani
http://www.absurdflow.com/begireplacement.html
My direct replacement for the above 2 is $600 (egr extra)
But yeah, my mani & downpipe together, to bolt onto a factory type exhaust would be $450-500 more than FM's mani/downpipe combo.
http://www.flyinmiata.com/index.php?...0%20%201990-93
FM's mani & downpipe, $750
My real motivation in starting this thread was to find out if anyone had any real analysis of the current FM design. Perhaps I made it too personal. I was kind of hoping somebody had a good pic of the inside of one of those units, or some real data on them.
I don't see anything personal about your posts.
#22
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http://www.flyinmiata.com/index.php?...21020%20%20DUC
$395 FM mani
http://www.bellengineering.net/produ...products_id=33
$433 BEGI mani
http://www.absurdflow.com/begireplacement.html
My direct replacement for the above 2 is $600 (egr extra)
But yeah, my mani & downpipe together, to bolt onto a factory type exhaust would be $450-500 more than FM's mani/downpipe combo.
http://www.flyinmiata.com/index.php?...0%20%201990-93
FM's mani & downpipe, $750
I would like to know what the inside of the FM mani looks like as well. Perhaps Keith will chime in with a photo. A quick email to them usually results in what you're looking for.
I don't see anything personal about your posts.
$395 FM mani
http://www.bellengineering.net/produ...products_id=33
$433 BEGI mani
http://www.absurdflow.com/begireplacement.html
My direct replacement for the above 2 is $600 (egr extra)
But yeah, my mani & downpipe together, to bolt onto a factory type exhaust would be $450-500 more than FM's mani/downpipe combo.
http://www.flyinmiata.com/index.php?...0%20%201990-93
FM's mani & downpipe, $750
I would like to know what the inside of the FM mani looks like as well. Perhaps Keith will chime in with a photo. A quick email to them usually results in what you're looking for.
I don't see anything personal about your posts.
I got that figure from kit and partial kit prices that were quoted to me. It's the difference in a full FM kit with 3" exhaust and the same kit minus mani and replacing with yours. Individually, you're only like $200 different. When I was looking at those numbers, it was an easy choice to send you a check. :-)
#24
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You can check the spool data in the spool data thread, you might get some insight into how well the manifolds flow. Not sure if there is any absurdflow stuff in there or not, but I just posted up my data with the FM Manifold. I'm sure there is more to it than that, but maybe just a piece of the puzzle.
#25
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I'd like to see the first post in this thread placed on the turbo section of miata.net, and see their responses. FM looks at that site a lot more I think.
Besides what's sitting in my garage at the moment, there's only 1 AF replacement mani out there ("version 1"). I don't know what the current owner has done with it if anything. I do know his signature is "absurdflow log manifold" which it AIN'T. I dynoed it on my car and got good results compared to an equivalent BEGI setup on the same dyno, but that's about it. No FM stuff around this area it seems.
Besides what's sitting in my garage at the moment, there's only 1 AF replacement mani out there ("version 1"). I don't know what the current owner has done with it if anything. I do know his signature is "absurdflow log manifold" which it AIN'T. I dynoed it on my car and got good results compared to an equivalent BEGI setup on the same dyno, but that's about it. No FM stuff around this area it seems.
#29
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I mean obviously the exhaust will just flow into the turbine...I was just being funnz. But it's no joke that a good collector makes a world of difference...it's been seen here time and time again.
#32
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Since the cylinders don't fire at the same time, is it really a big deal?
#33
It is a 'big deal', but not because exhaust pulses collide (they don't because only one cyl fires at a time).
The big deal is that logs dissipate pulse energy and encourage cylinder cross-talk. When you have a proper collector, it is much harder for an exhaust pulse to reverse direction up another cylinder's exhaust runner. In turn you get more pulse energy directed to the turbine and less of it trying to contaminate other cylinders.
Collectors are good mkay?
The big deal is that logs dissipate pulse energy and encourage cylinder cross-talk. When you have a proper collector, it is much harder for an exhaust pulse to reverse direction up another cylinder's exhaust runner. In turn you get more pulse energy directed to the turbine and less of it trying to contaminate other cylinders.
Collectors are good mkay?
#34
I am running a newer FM cast tubi. No problems from me. Then again, I am not Mr. Ever Last HP...I'm running 13psi on it with a 2560R and can say I am happy with it..doing daily driving autoX and some track days. I had an older FM/BEGI design one and I can feel/see a difference between the square design that BEGi is still using and the new FM design.
Sorry, no pics of the inside.
Sorry, no pics of the inside.
#35
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I am running a newer FM cast tubi. No problems from me. Then again, I am not Mr. Ever Last HP...I'm running 13psi on it with a 2560R and can say I am happy with it..doing daily driving autoX and some track days. I had an older FM/BEGI design one and I can feel/see a difference between the square design that BEGi is still using and the new FM design.
Sorry, no pics of the inside.
Sorry, no pics of the inside.
#36
I cracked a BEGi/FM square one, broke a newish FM tubi....but the latest FM one is holding up just fine (they switched foundries). I have a few ideas as to why the first cast tubi failed, but I don't want to go into it...but I will say if I thought it was bad quality, I wouldn't have put another one back on.
Fm has had two versions of the cast tubi. The older version had a boarder around the FM logo, the newer cast ones do not. The newer ones are also improved when it comes to bolting it up to the head, FM made sure to make the studs/bolts easy to access/tighten. I wanted to kill the other two manifolds when it came to a couple of the nuts...but when I put this last one on it was much easier to do it becuse of some minor design changes.
Fm has had two versions of the cast tubi. The older version had a boarder around the FM logo, the newer cast ones do not. The newer ones are also improved when it comes to bolting it up to the head, FM made sure to make the studs/bolts easy to access/tighten. I wanted to kill the other two manifolds when it came to a couple of the nuts...but when I put this last one on it was much easier to do it becuse of some minor design changes.
#38
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I'd like to see the first post in this thread placed on the turbo section of miata.net, and see their responses. FM looks at that site a lot more I think.
Besides what's sitting in my garage at the moment, there's only 1 AF replacement mani out there ("version 1"). I don't know what the current owner has done with it if anything. I do know his signature is "absurdflow log manifold" which it AIN'T. I dynoed it on my car and got good results compared to an equivalent BEGI setup on the same dyno, but that's about it. No FM stuff around this area it seems.
Besides what's sitting in my garage at the moment, there's only 1 AF replacement mani out there ("version 1"). I don't know what the current owner has done with it if anything. I do know his signature is "absurdflow log manifold" which it AIN'T. I dynoed it on my car and got good results compared to an equivalent BEGI setup on the same dyno, but that's about it. No FM stuff around this area it seems.
#39
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I didn't realize I had the only one, and sorry about the mis-labeling in my sig, Tim. I haven't dynoed my car, I am running the stock wastegate actuator on my T25 (which I couldn't run with the previous FM manifold) at the stock 8psi or so level. I have no complaints at all about it, I love it. It is easier to install than the FM mani, weighs significantly less, and allowed the stock clocking of the turbo so I could get rid of my crappy hacked bracket and ebay actuator. Fit is perfect as well, my FM downpipe bolted right up with no leaks and I didn't have to adjust anything downstream in the exhaust. I wouldn't hesitate to recommend it to anyone.
EDIT: Did you notice any spool difference with my manifold, or "seat of the pants" difference in power at the same boost setting?