Fireindc

iTrader: (13)

Hey!, im new to the forums and im looking at a greddy kit for my 1.6.

I have a 1990 Mariner blue miata with a short nose crank. The engine was rebuilt about 9k miles ago, and the crankshaft was replaced with a new one. Anyone have any opinions on FI and the short nose crank?

I personally think most of the short nose cranks break because of over-torquing when timing belt replacement is done, not that its an epidemic and they break for no reason. I think this because my father has been a mechanic for 30+ years and has heard all about it.

What do you guys think?!

Thanks!!

Nate.

olderguy

iTrader: (19)

No reason the shortnose crank should be any different for FI than the long nose.

Whether over-torquing or just incorrect assembly is the problem, as long as you check a correctly assembled crank bolt every 30k or so, there should be no problem.

I am of the opinion that every failure was after being disassembled the first time. I haven't heard of one that failed on its' own before 60k and the timing belt change recommendation. I could be wrong, but I'm just sayin'

getsidewaysd1

Welcome To The Thunder Dome Bitch!

samnavy

iTrader: (7)

What olderguy said... any more questions?

BrokeEnthusiast

iTrader: (1)

Ive got one for sale if your looking to buy

iluvtruenos

The short nose does not affect power, just the looseness of the bolt, right?

olderguy

iTrader: (19)

Same engine, just upgraded in the middle of 1991 because of weakness at the front of the crank where it mates to the timing belt cog and pulley.

iluvtruenos

Ok, good. So technically a short nose can make the same figures as a big nose, right?

boostinsteve

Yes, just when you go to do the timing belt, be a little more careful with the woodruff key when seating the belt cog, and ensure that you use a torque wrench to tighten the bolt for the crank pulley. If you haven't done it yet, this is a good idea prior to putting a turbo on the car. Turbo=more heat and more load on the cooling system.