Cracked manifold
05-28-2008, 01:09 PM
#24
Take that sucker off and drill out the ends of the cracks, stop it in its tracks. Use a good cutting wheel on a grinder and V out the crack all the way into the manifold, but don't make it huge. Bake it at 450 degrees for around 30 minutes then use a nickel welding filler and close it up. Do it clean but quick, don't clean the weld.. Drop it into a bucket of powdered Lime and leave it overnight.
Did that to a cracked E6 Ford 2.3 turbo manifold almost ten years ago, still rock solid to this day.
Did that to a cracked E6 Ford 2.3 turbo manifold almost ten years ago, still rock solid to this day.
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05-28-2008, 07:00 PM
#25
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Everything I know about metalwork I learned from my brother who was a machinist/fabricator for around 17 years. I end up looking at a project and thinking, 'this sucks... I can't do this!' He comes over and is like, "you see... what you do is..." and it all makes sense. 
Welding is defiantly an acquired skill, but its not too hard to master. I can stick weld something and it'll never come apart, but I'm still trying ot get my feel of wire feed. I'd LOVE to get into TIG, but can't afford a 3000$ unit right now.
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05-30-2008, 08:13 PM
#26
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The problem with the OP's crack is that it goes all the way to the end of the flange. There isn't a point to drill a hole to stop the crack.
My E36 M3 is up on stands awaiting a quicker steering rack. When that's done, I can start on the ETD Mani.
My E36 M3 is up on stands awaiting a quicker steering rack. When that's done, I can start on the ETD Mani.
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06-01-2008, 08:28 PM
#27
I had my Greddy manifold welded recently. It had the usual cracks as the prev owner did not make enough relief cuts. I'll let you know how mine works out over time.
To repair it I took it to an exhaust shop and asked the guy if he could fix it. He seemed confident he could. At least that was what he said. When I got it back it was painted black. Presumably because he filled in the crack with a golden colored substance. The paint was to hide the repair. I'm not a welding expert so I can't tell you what it was he used to fill it. Cost was $70. He did mention that since it was cast he would need to braise (sp?) the new metal in to fix it.
To repair it I took it to an exhaust shop and asked the guy if he could fix it. He seemed confident he could. At least that was what he said. When I got it back it was painted black. Presumably because he filled in the crack with a golden colored substance. The paint was to hide the repair. I'm not a welding expert so I can't tell you what it was he used to fill it. Cost was $70. He did mention that since it was cast he would need to braise (sp?) the new metal in to fix it.
BTW, my HKS just cracked and I cut relief cuts in the flange twice before!
YES TWICE. After the first time, they closed up!
I will be TIG welding my stainless mani with a JGS kit next week.
elesjuan, I picked up a Lincoln ac/dc 185 amp for 700$
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06-02-2008, 01:13 PM
#29
I think there's something to be said for it being evenly heated... Though maybe the best heat would be to have it on a dyno at full tilt for 6 hours. :-)
Not going to the end isn't such a big deal.
Hmmm, my reliefe cuts are closed too. You just bandsaw it? Maybe I should pull it off and reslit it.
Not going to the end isn't such a big deal.
Hmmm, my reliefe cuts are closed too. You just bandsaw it? Maybe I should pull it off and reslit it.
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06-02-2008, 01:20 PM
#30
I think there's something to be said for it being evenly heated... Though maybe the best heat would be to have it on a dyno at full tilt for 6 hours. :-)
Not going to the end isn't such a big deal.
Hmmm, my reliefe cuts are closed too. You just bandsaw it? Maybe I should pull it off and reslit it.
Not going to the end isn't such a big deal.
Hmmm, my reliefe cuts are closed too. You just bandsaw it? Maybe I should pull it off and reslit it.
it doesnt matter what kind of heat you put into it pre-welding. it's the post welding cooling that, I hear, is critical. hence the bucket of lime or sand.
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