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Old 05-28-2008, 11:47 AM   #21
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Originally Posted by elesjuan View Post
Take that sucker off and... Did that to a cracked E6 Ford 2.3 turbo manifold almost ten years ago, still rock solid to this day.
I wish I had the tools and the skills to do that, but thanks for the directions. This thread has been extremely helpful, so thanks again to everyone.
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Old 05-28-2008, 11:52 AM   #22
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Who's that?
Mazcare quoted me $300-350 to replace the manifold if I found a replacement AVO piece.
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Old 05-28-2008, 11:59 AM   #23
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weld it!
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Old 05-28-2008, 02:09 PM   #24
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Originally Posted by JasonC SBB View Post
I ended up getting a BEGI manifold and downpipe, but lost spoolup. I then got an ETD shorty tubey mani and a custom downpipe, which is now waiting to be installed.
Man, I want to hear how that turns out. When mine recracks, I'm sure in a month or two, I'll be getting another mani. I'm looking at FM's right now (never got a quote from BEGI for a half system), but the ETD looks pretty good.

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Originally Posted by elesjuan View Post
Take that sucker off and drill out the ends of the cracks, stop it in its tracks. Use a good cutting wheel on a grinder and V out the crack all the way into the manifold, but don't make it huge. Bake it at 450 degrees for around 30 minutes then use a nickel welding filler and close it up. Do it clean but quick, don't clean the weld.. Drop it into a bucket of powdered Lime and leave it overnight.

Did that to a cracked E6 Ford 2.3 turbo manifold almost ten years ago, still rock solid to this day.
Nicely written! I almost think *I* could do it after having read that. Too bad I suck sweaty donkey ***** when it comes to welding.
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Old 05-28-2008, 08:00 PM   #25
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Nicely written! I almost think *I* could do it after having read that. Too bad I suck sweaty donkey ***** when it comes to welding.

Everything I know about metalwork I learned from my brother who was a machinist/fabricator for around 17 years. I end up looking at a project and thinking, 'this sucks... I can't do this!' He comes over and is like, "you see... what you do is..." and it all makes sense.

Welding is defiantly an acquired skill, but its not too hard to master. I can stick weld something and it'll never come apart, but I'm still trying ot get my feel of wire feed. I'd LOVE to get into TIG, but can't afford a 3000$ unit right now.
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Old 05-30-2008, 09:13 PM   #26
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The problem with the OP's crack is that it goes all the way to the end of the flange. There isn't a point to drill a hole to stop the crack.

My E36 M3 is up on stands awaiting a quicker steering rack. When that's done, I can start on the ETD Mani.
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Old 06-01-2008, 09:28 PM   #27
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Originally Posted by SchoonerPaul View Post
I had my Greddy manifold welded recently. It had the usual cracks as the prev owner did not make enough relief cuts. I'll let you know how mine works out over time.

To repair it I took it to an exhaust shop and asked the guy if he could fix it. He seemed confident he could. At least that was what he said. When I got it back it was painted black. Presumably because he filled in the crack with a golden colored substance. The paint was to hide the repair. I'm not a welding expert so I can't tell you what it was he used to fill it. Cost was $70. He did mention that since it was cast he would need to braise (sp?) the new metal in to fix it.
I bet he brazed it with copper or brass or something.

BTW, my HKS just cracked and I cut relief cuts in the flange twice before!
YES TWICE. After the first time, they closed up!

I will be TIG welding my stainless mani with a JGS kit next week.

elesjuan, I picked up a Lincoln ac/dc 185 amp for 700$
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Old 06-01-2008, 11:56 PM   #28
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**** baking it. Put that ************ on a grill for a half hour and it'll be nice and toasty. Bury it in charcoal if you want it to glow.
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Old 06-02-2008, 02:13 PM   #29
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I think there's something to be said for it being evenly heated... Though maybe the best heat would be to have it on a dyno at full tilt for 6 hours. :-)

Not going to the end isn't such a big deal.

Hmmm, my reliefe cuts are closed too. You just bandsaw it? Maybe I should pull it off and reslit it.
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Old 06-02-2008, 02:20 PM   #30
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Originally Posted by AbeFM View Post
I think there's something to be said for it being evenly heated... Though maybe the best heat would be to have it on a dyno at full tilt for 6 hours. :-)

Not going to the end isn't such a big deal.

Hmmm, my reliefe cuts are closed too. You just bandsaw it? Maybe I should pull it off and reslit it.
i'm not really sure if cutting it a second time is a good thing. it didnt work well for me, mine cracked.

it doesnt matter what kind of heat you put into it pre-welding. it's the post welding cooling that, I hear, is critical. hence the bucket of lime or sand.
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