rotate the intake so it almost inside the box, angled downward. You'll have to install the filter on the tube then lower the box in place as one big unit. This shoudl give you more room to push the charge pipes down...
bingo. alternately, install the filter on the pipe in the box and install those as a unit, putting the pipe on the compressor last.
Yep, move the cooland lines towards the block (remove dipstick, they break easily)
Dutch: Een breekijzer doet wonderen.
Bekijk de leiding goed.
Idd een raar geluid. Mijn (ouder type) maakte dat geluid echt niet...
Hoeveel benzinedruk heb je?
45psi stationair met het vacuum slangetje naar de standaart mazda drukregelaar los...
Daarna 6psi/psi opvoeren. Dus 8psi turbodruk: 8 x6 = 48 psi
Check the “atmo” fuel pressure: With the fuel pressure gauge installed in the fuel line leading to the fuel rail,
observe the fuel pressure at idle. It should be between 35 and 38 psi. Blip the throttle a bit and the fuel pressure
should rise and fall a couple psi.
Im around 5.5psi now. So my idle is ok..
BTW, found the coolant leak: where one of the heater hoses connects to the metal pipe that goes below the manifold.
Hmm engine died in a 2nd gear pull
No smoke or leaks, but some shaking and rattling during the pull. Then engine died and won't start. Turns over and shakes but doesn't start. I think compression is gone due to a cylinder going bad.
Looks like a sooner-than-planned rebuild is in order.
What do you all think?
Not yet... don't have the gear for that. What are my other options? Head and valves have recently been done so I'm expecting something down below. What are the other possibilities? I will try to shoot a video of my start attempt.
Check to make sure all turbo tubes are still on real good. If one has come loose, the car will not start.
BTW - the FMU is not supposed to whistle. Shoot me an e-mail and I will send you some replacement shims. The shims can get damaged from dirty fuel, the center screw being tightened too much, and /or a boost spike.