bingo. alternately, install the filter on the pipe in the box and install those as a unit, putting the pipe on the compressor last.

 

yeah, that's what i meant filter on pipe, through hole....then drop in the box, then secure pipe to turbo.

 

I worked it out, thanks all. Tilting the box open and sliding the air filter in was the way to go. Now on to adding oil, coolant and doing all the fuel bits and off we go.

 

Car is running! Last night we finished the fuelling and started the car. Some paint/grease fumes but otherwise fine. Small coolant leak at the lower radiator hose due to a loose clamp (fixed).

After a warm up, FPR tuning and a test run and then a spirited run, we had some coolant sipping below the heater hose down the tranny. We parked the car for the night and just picked it up.

It may have been overfilled with coolant and/or one of my heater hoses is shot, or worse. Coolant level is good and clear (blue/green as new) and oil level is fine too. So

One of the heater hoses (with heat wrap) is touching the down pipe. Is that OK?

not a big leak. It may have been forced out by pressure after the hot run.

Any common coolant issues on this?

 

Oh, and other than that the boost is awesome!

 

It is not ok for coolant lines to touch the downpipe.
You need at least 1inch (preff more ) off room.

You cannot overfil the coolant system, the radiator capwill remove the excess off coolant to the overflow bottle.(if working correctly)

 

Ok, I will try to move the coolant line back. Since the end is metal, how do I do this? Just push it towards the firewall hard with a bar?

I will check, but it may be that one of those lines overheated and is now leaking under pressure.

 

Apart from coolant sipping through, I also hear this noise with light throttle application from 2000-3000rpm:



It is the sound of a flawed party whistle:


Any ideas?

 

it's your FMU.

 

Ah, it is the check valve isn't it? Damn ugly sound

 

Yep, move the cooland lines towards the block (remove dipstick, they break easily)
Dutch: Een breekijzer doet wonderen.
Bekijk de leiding goed.
Idd een raar geluid. Mijn (ouder type) maakte dat geluid echt niet...
Hoeveel benzinedruk heb je?
45psi stationair met het vacuum slangetje naar de standaart mazda drukregelaar los...
Daarna 6psi/psi opvoeren. Dus 8psi turbodruk: 8 x6 = 48 psi
45+48 =93psi...

 

Zo uit mijn hoofd 35psi idle en naar >80psi met de retour dicht, precies zoals BEGI voorschrijft. Ik ga een andere check valve zoeken...

 

Je zit niet hoog genoeg 35 idle (met vacuum los) deze gaat standaart naar 45psi (ongeveer). Vanaf daar (geen vacuum is volgas rijden zonder turbo) heb je 6 psi brandstofdruk nodig per psi turbodruk.

De 2025 moet je hebben:

http://www.bellengineering.net/templ...structions.pdf

8psi turbodruk =100psi...

Of rij je op 6psi??

 

well it's not supposed to make that sound.

 

In my manual it says:
Im around 5.5psi now. So my idle is ok..

BTW, found the coolant leak: where one of the heater hoses connects to the metal pipe that goes below the manifold.

 

Hmm engine died in a 2nd gear pull
No smoke or leaks, but some shaking and rattling during the pull. Then engine died and won't start. Turns over and shakes but doesn't start. I think compression is gone due to a cylinder going bad.

Looks like a sooner-than-planned rebuild is in order.
What do you all think?

 

Spooky, it can't be a bad cyl.. that would suck huge.

Did you do a compression check already?

 

Not yet... don't have the gear for that. What are my other options? Head and valves have recently been done so I'm expecting something down below. What are the other possibilities? I will try to shoot a video of my start attempt.

 

well..... since the fmu was whistling, which it's not supposed to, I'd say something's up with the fueling.

 

Check to make sure all turbo tubes are still on real good. If one has come loose, the car will not start.

BTW - the FMU is not supposed to whistle. Shoot me an e-mail and I will send you some replacement shims. The shims can get damaged from dirty fuel, the center screw being tightened too much, and /or a boost spike.
Stephanie