Req: 2nd opinion during BEGI-S install (INSERT HELP) - Page 3 - Miata Turbo Forum - Boost cars, acquire cats.

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Old 08-04-2008, 01:42 PM   #41
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Braineack View Post
rotate the intake so it almost inside the box, angled downward. You'll have to install the filter on the tube then lower the box in place as one big unit. This shoudl give you more room to push the charge pipes down...
bingo. alternately, install the filter on the pipe in the box and install those as a unit, putting the pipe on the compressor last.
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Old 08-04-2008, 01:45 PM   #42
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yeah, that's what i meant filter on pipe, through hole....then drop in the box, then secure pipe to turbo.
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Old 08-04-2008, 03:47 PM   #43
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I worked it out, thanks all. Tilting the box open and sliding the air filter in was the way to go. Now on to adding oil, coolant and doing all the fuel bits and off we go.
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Old 08-05-2008, 05:59 AM   #44
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Car is running! Last night we finished the fuelling and started the car. Some paint/grease fumes but otherwise fine. Small coolant leak at the lower radiator hose due to a loose clamp (fixed).

After a warm up, FPR tuning and a test run and then a spirited run, we had some coolant sipping below the heater hose down the tranny. We parked the car for the night and just picked it up.

It may have been overfilled with coolant and/or one of my heater hoses is shot, or worse. Coolant level is good and clear (blue/green as new) and oil level is fine too. So

One of the heater hoses (with heat wrap) is touching the down pipe. Is that OK?

not a big leak. It may have been forced out by pressure after the hot run.

Any common coolant issues on this?
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Old 08-05-2008, 06:00 AM   #45
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Oh, and other than that the boost is awesome!
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Old 08-05-2008, 06:57 AM   #46
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It is not ok for coolant lines to touch the downpipe.
You need at least 1inch (preff more ) off room.

You cannot overfil the coolant system, the radiator capwill remove the excess off coolant to the overflow bottle.(if working correctly)
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Old 08-05-2008, 07:09 AM   #47
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Ok, I will try to move the coolant line back. Since the end is metal, how do I do this? Just push it towards the firewall hard with a bar?

I will check, but it may be that one of those lines overheated and is now leaking under pressure.
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Old 08-05-2008, 09:12 AM   #48
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Apart from coolant sipping through, I also hear this noise with light throttle application from 2000-3000rpm:



It is the sound of a flawed party whistle:


Any ideas?
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Old 08-05-2008, 09:47 AM   #49
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it's your FMU.
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Old 08-05-2008, 09:56 AM   #50
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Ah, it is the check valve isn't it? Damn ugly sound
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Old 08-05-2008, 11:47 AM   #51
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Yep, move the cooland lines towards the block (remove dipstick, they break easily)
Dutch: Een breekijzer doet wonderen.
Bekijk de leiding goed.
Idd een raar geluid. Mijn (ouder type) maakte dat geluid echt niet...
Hoeveel benzinedruk heb je?
45psi stationair met het vacuum slangetje naar de standaart mazda drukregelaar los...
Daarna 6psi/psi opvoeren. Dus 8psi turbodruk: 8 x6 = 48 psi
45+48 =93psi...
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Old 08-05-2008, 11:49 AM   #52
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Zo uit mijn hoofd 35psi idle en naar >80psi met de retour dicht, precies zoals BEGI voorschrijft. Ik ga een andere check valve zoeken...
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Old 08-05-2008, 12:23 PM   #53
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Je zit niet hoog genoeg 35 idle (met vacuum los) deze gaat standaart naar 45psi (ongeveer). Vanaf daar (geen vacuum is volgas rijden zonder turbo) heb je 6 psi brandstofdruk nodig per psi turbodruk.

De 2025 moet je hebben:

http://www.bellengineering.net/templ...structions.pdf

8psi turbodruk =100psi...

Of rij je op 6psi??
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Old 08-05-2008, 12:25 PM   #54
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Spookyfish View Post
Ah, it is the check valve isn't it? Damn ugly sound

well it's not supposed to make that sound.
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Old 08-05-2008, 12:47 PM   #55
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In my manual it says:
Quote:
Check the “atmo” fuel pressure: With the fuel pressure gauge installed in the fuel line leading to the fuel rail,
observe the fuel pressure at idle. It should be between 35 and 38 psi. Blip the throttle a bit and the fuel pressure
should rise and fall a couple psi.
Im around 5.5psi now. So my idle is ok..

BTW, found the coolant leak: where one of the heater hoses connects to the metal pipe that goes below the manifold.
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Old 08-05-2008, 03:20 PM   #56
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Angry

Hmm engine died in a 2nd gear pull
No smoke or leaks, but some shaking and rattling during the pull. Then engine died and won't start. Turns over and shakes but doesn't start. I think compression is gone due to a cylinder going bad.

Looks like a sooner-than-planned rebuild is in order.
What do you all think?
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Old 08-05-2008, 03:30 PM   #57
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Default No way!!!!

Spooky, it can't be a bad cyl.. that would suck huge.

Did you do a compression check already?
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Old 08-05-2008, 03:33 PM   #58
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Not yet... don't have the gear for that. What are my other options? Head and valves have recently been done so I'm expecting something down below. What are the other possibilities? I will try to shoot a video of my start attempt.
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Old 08-05-2008, 04:07 PM   #59
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well..... since the fmu was whistling, which it's not supposed to, I'd say something's up with the fueling.
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Old 08-05-2008, 04:16 PM   #60
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Check to make sure all turbo tubes are still on real good. If one has come loose, the car will not start.

BTW - the FMU is not supposed to whistle. Shoot me an e-mail and I will send you some replacement shims. The shims can get damaged from dirty fuel, the center screw being tightened too much, and /or a boost spike.
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