Comment on my alignment DD/Autox/Street Tires
#1
Comment on my alignment DD/Autox/Street Tires
The car is daily driven with some autox. I'm on RT-615 tires right now but going over to Ecsta XS next season 205/50/15 on a 7.5" or 8" wide wheel. I'm getting my car corner balanced and aligned soon, and I wanted to hear some input on what I'm planning. The car is on Stance coilovers 8k/6k, with stock sways, the engine is stock. I might take off the rear and/or add a bigger front bar later on.
Front
Ride Height: 12"
Camber: -2.0°
Toe: 0
Caster: 4°
Rear
Ride Height: 12.5"
Camber: -1.7°
Toe: 1/16 inch toe in total
I don't have any front toe out, but I plan on just turning the tie rods one full turn before autox to give 1/4 inch of toe out, and set it back to normal afterwards to save the tires.
So what do you guys think? Is the caster good? Do I need the the rear toe in? Ride heights good?
Thanks,
Mike
Front
Ride Height: 12"
Camber: -2.0°
Toe: 0
Caster: 4°
Rear
Ride Height: 12.5"
Camber: -1.7°
Toe: 1/16 inch toe in total
I don't have any front toe out, but I plan on just turning the tie rods one full turn before autox to give 1/4 inch of toe out, and set it back to normal afterwards to save the tires.
So what do you guys think? Is the caster good? Do I need the the rear toe in? Ride heights good?
Thanks,
Mike
#6
Boost Czar
iTrader: (62)
Join Date: May 2005
Location: Chantilly, VA
Posts: 79,501
Total Cats: 4,080
the alignment I plan on getting will be:
F
-2.5 camber
3.5-4° caster
1/16" toe out
R
-1.8 to -2.0 camber
1/16" toe in
I'm currently running 550/300 springs, no rear bar, a 7/8" front bar, and XSes. I have -1.7F and -1.9R, it would be great it I was a non-modded N/A.
#10
I am soon getting an FCM setup with 550/350s, and will be putting on a torsen over the winter. I will not be running a rear bar, just tuning my rear roll and overall balance by switching out rear springs.
#12
I took off the rear bar reluctantly, after a huge amount of reading/input from many many people smarted than me. Even with my open diff and upping the boost to probably make ~220 at the rears, I can lay on very heavy power coming out of tight autocross and road course turns. That rear bar contributes to lifting the inside rear, and whether you have an open OR torsen, your corner exit will be ruined.
I am soon getting an FCM setup with 550/350s, and will be putting on a torsen over the winter. I will not be running a rear bar, just tuning my rear roll and overall balance by switching out rear springs.
I am soon getting an FCM setup with 550/350s, and will be putting on a torsen over the winter. I will not be running a rear bar, just tuning my rear roll and overall balance by switching out rear springs.
#16
I assume you are trying to say that you don't think you are doing it wrong, right? I don't, either, and it's close to what I run. I was commenting on pitcrewguy's 'zero toe.' Zero toe to spec miata guys means zero toe all around for less rolling resistance. A little toe in at the rear for stability. Zero to toe out in the front for turn-in. I got rid of toe out in the front because I was sick of driving off the road while receiving oral sex.
The rear bias camber settings will be hotly debated for eternity. FWIW, many fast guys run more front camber. I will rock what I have until next year, at which point I will TEST to find my correct camber settings. Then I will rape, and let all you ******* know what I am rocking. I will belittle those that don't copy it.
The rear bias camber settings will be hotly debated for eternity. FWIW, many fast guys run more front camber. I will rock what I have until next year, at which point I will TEST to find my correct camber settings. Then I will rape, and let all you ******* know what I am rocking. I will belittle those that don't copy it.