SuperMiata Harmonic Damper?
 

Harmonic Balancer Miata

Tell me more (iI'm a bit thick at times). How does this compare to the ATI model? Is this needed on a 1.6 that won't rev past the OEM rev limiter? The car WILL be tracked and currently has an Unorthodox Racing pulley on it.


pic for those who haven't seen yet:

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1345345834

New Harmonic Balancer from SuperMiata - Miata Turbo Forum - Home to the Turbo Miata

BTW, I would never run an undamped pulley on our motors, especially a track car.

--Ferdi

Then you WILL blow up the oil pump. Underdrive pulleys and Miata motors do not mix.

The SuperMiata unit is cheaper than an ATI damper, lighter, and actually designed for the motor. It's the one you want.

thank you Mr. Kidd that's what I needed to hear :)

and it'll work on the 1.8 when I inevitably blow up the 1.6 motor.

Why is there still a provision for an AC/PS belt? If you're in need of this, you obviously have a serious track pig and AC and PS are the first to go. Looks like it could lose another 2 lbs. :)

^^^I was wondering this myself actually...the only reason I didn't cut mine off the UR pulley is to keep the resale value up. I have no AC or PS on my car so I'd be down for a pulley without it for sure :)

I assume it's to make it more marketable to the masses of people who aren't stupid like us and kept a/c. that would be nice on those 100+ degree days waiting in the pit to go on track...

not every high powered miata is a pure track slut. some are street cars for a few hours between rebuilds and bannings.

Yes. So please, someone tell me why this part is superior to an ATI Damper or Fluidampr.

Post 3.

Cheaper and lighter. I thought lighter and no rubber inside is bad. Anything else? Does it have rubber in it? Or just metal.

Is the main point of this to get rid of the bolts?

It has rubber - it's just aluminum and designed for more force than the OEM damper is designed for. Less weight and more damping.

Getting rid of the bolts is a big perk, but it will also knock down engine vibration better, which means you'll see less hardware come loose from the chassis on a regular basis. I know on our track cars, we have to re-tighten intake manifold nuts - hopefully that will cease with this part.

^I'd like less loose parts. If it does a good enough job I'll put the other delrin mount in place of the mazda motorsports one I have on the other side.

Now I just need to save up an additional $500 again after I buy this and the pulleys I need :)

I talk to 949 for a while the other day before I ordered this. I asked about the extra ribbing and if there would ever be a single belt version.He said it had been discussed, but the extra weight out there is actually needed. The physics is a bit over my head. had something to do with how far from the center of the shaft it is and the amount of metal there is minimal. Something I think was said that if the extra ribs were machined off weight would have to be put somewhere else. Negating the shaving of the ribs savings. I my head it makes sense. I can't put into words very well maybe. Something like having 2 different 10lb flywheels and one being far better than the other because of where the weight is placed is more important. More weight centrally will spin up faster than the one with all its weight on the outer ring. Sorta like spinning a pail of water at arms lenght vs spinning it around your wrist at the same rpm.

Still waiting for the real answer to--

Why is this better than the ATI and Fluidampr? Because it does the EXACT same thing JUST AS WELL for LESS MONEY?

Is that your claim?

ATI / Fluidampr are dynamic self-correcting dampers. As vibrations change with engine speed and pulse intensity, the ATI / Fluidampr adjust to smooth those vibrations.

Solid state dampers can be tuned to a specific frequency and intensity, but just like a fixed intake system, there are going to be areas where it is less efficient at what it does. This damper is better than the ATI in two ways --> It adds inexpensiveness and it adds lightness. The ATI is actually about 2 pounds *heavier* than stock.

Faefae, keep your ATI.

This must be pressed onto the crankshaft with special tool. What tools are required to remove this unit for timing belt changes or other maintenance? Do you attach a pulley puller to the aluminum outer ring? I'm a bit wary of that idea.

I will consider this for my car but wish to know what exactly I'm getting into.

Yeah, that's what I thought. I can deal with 2 extra pounds on my crank for better damping.

Sounds like this is good for those racing with moderate horsepower who don't need every trick in the book to keep their engines together.

That's not a good characterization at all. This damper is good for everyone, regardless of application. I'll be using one on Theseus and Rover, and those two applications are quite different indeed.

I won't say it's better than ATI or worse than ATI, but it is a lot lighter and a lot cheaper.

Am I the only one that never needed a puller/press to remove or reinstall a crank pulley. I have done timing belt installs on both my cars and didn't need one. Other crap fights me tooth and nail, but never had issues with the crank pulley.

You using the stock pulley?

The stock pulley will slide right on/off by hand.

The performance pulleys are a different story.

I once had to remove a fly pulley from a Kawasaki 636, had a puller on it with breaker bars on the puller for leverage, and even then, I was putting everything I could muster into twisting that thing, when all of a sudden came a massively loud POP!! and everything in my hand just went loose. Scared the bejesus out of me. I was certain that I had broken something - either the pulley or the tool. The puller was sitting loose on the pulley, and I probably spent 10 seconds trying to find out what I had broke before I realized that the pulley had come nearly all the way off the crankshaft. Slid it the rest of the way off in quiet excitement. Has nothing to do with Miata pulleys, but it reminded me of that story.

Why must these be "press-on" rather than bolt on? That's the one thing keeping me from buying this...and the house I want to buy.

Because the bolts break. Why would you want to keep a failure point? Aren't you all about eliminating failure points?

Pressing the thing on and off sucks. That's a big deal to me.

If I can do it you can too. And yes it sucks

Haha I've done that sort of thing a few times. Scary as hell. Yes I have the factory pullies. So that solves that delima. I guess I'll need to ten the press tool when I get this in. Maybe a stupid question. Is this press/puller like one I can get from vatozone or Oreallys?

If I break a timing belt now, I can swap it in 15-minutes at the track, maybe less if the car is cool. If I break a timing belt with a damper like this, I need a tow truck and get to pay a massive bill to get the car home.

I guess I mis understood how the stock pulley/damper is setup. I understood it as, the inner race of the damper had the keyway, slid on the crank and was held to the crank with the big bolt. then the pulley bolted to the damper with the 3 small bolts. I could not separate they pulley from the damper after undoing the 3 small bolts when I did the timing belt on my car. It was easier just to undo the big bolt and pull off the whole shebang.

Buyin the press tool might be a worthwhile investment. The tool might be heaped than a tow home depending on distance. Pain in the ass, but from what I can see the new pulley would be a better pulley for a stressed engine. Do you break timing belts often? I'm not a track guy.....yet..... But is there something I should prepare for? I assume frequent inspection and proper change interval would eliminate 95% of most peoples failures. Never known someone who broke one that actually paid attention to their cars. Usually it's the stereotypical chick that has 150,000 + on the stock belt.

I broke a new belt right after I put my car together four years ago on the highway, with like 3000 miles on it. I only buy the blue ones now, but it's still a concern. I'm not sure how long the blue ones are good for.

I had an OE belt come apart on me. Never had a problem with the kevlar belts.

Just keep the tools to press it on/off in the track spares box. With the right tools, it's not a big deal.

The price difference between the regular belt and the blue is a no brainer. Even in my really broke moments after seperating I go the blue one. Well had the employee discount, that helped I admit. Oddly I know this probably doesn't matter, but I've had both belts new in myhands and the blue just feels better. Placebo effect?

What are the chances I can find a puller that doesn't require me to pull the radiator?

The blue belts are kevlar? Sweet. How many hours do you put on them for a track car vs. how many street miles? I've already thrown away two since I replace them every season.

So damper puller grabs the aluminum part of the pulley and doesn't scar it up? I'd like details on that.

So what about this $16 solution?
https://www.flyinmiata.com/index.php...umber=36-10408

I didn't pay attention to the length (16mm) when I bought those. Way too short for an NB. However, I'm sure you can find the same ARP bolts in the correct length.

As for fixing the problem? No idea, I don't go fast enough.

can someone tell me what tool I need to buy to remove and install this? Or will the hammer the bastard on with an impact work?

if i buy the damper now and want to add the trigger wheel down the road can i?

This. I want to pre order now for bro-pricing but am still undecided on trigger wheel setup. Can I do that come October?

from the pm they sent me they said it can be added later. I have the money to buy one but i need to pay my fabricator grrrr.

Ordered one anyway :)

I had 3 of the 4 bolts shear off the OE damper but at only 170whp and with a rev limit of only 7500. I guess this is the sure fix?

Cheers

I got the last one, woohoo!

Any updates?

https://www.miataturbo.net/engine-pe...ermiata-67838/

Harmonic Balancer Miata

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...1&d=1348613819

I'm going to take a wild guess here, but I believe they begin shipping the first week of October... :giggle:

Yes, they ship the first week of October, 2013

The machined bits have been done for a few weeks. BHJ had an unexpected delay from a supplier needed for our dampers. Funny, he estimated they'd be ready first week of September so I added a month just to be safe. Now I look smart (that's rare). We should meet the published deadline.

did they ship yet?

Email/phones, dude. :)

Second production run
 

More dampers available!

We sold out the first batch much sooner than anticipated. Orders placed before today (October 5) should ship towards the end of next week.

New orders placed after today will ship around the first of November.

I hope to get one of these before I blow-up my current engine.

Take mine if you want. I'm still undecided on trigger wheels and have a motor in a million pieces. Mine should be in the early batch.

did they ship yet? my fabricator is wanting to know how much of my frame rail to remove lol.

bump for updates?

I want a picture of it installed and first-hand experience with installation.
I'll be getting one, just want to know on a 1-10 scale how much of a pain in the ass it is.

They will ship tomorrow

I want to see it running for 6 months at 9000RPM on a motor with a crank that hasn't been balanced.

Wait.. wait ... wait... so i paid the machinist $300 bucks to balance my rotating assembly for nothing?!?!?!? i could have just run this damper :::face palm :::












i

^Don't stress the balancing. (I paid less :giggle:, but not by much) I figure it will just make awesome more awesomer. I actually sorta hope with a balanced motor and the whammy damper I can run soft AWR motor mounts and screw changing rubber ones again. If funds allow I'll try both after I get it all running.

Show me a balancing job that affects torsional vibrations (which is the job for the damper)...

General vibration due to unbalanced rotating things is something else (radial forces, not torsional/torque).
That can be tested while free revving, torsional vibrations would be very minimal in that test case.

anyone got this yet? Cant wait!