Why must these be "press-on" rather than bolt on? That's the one thing keeping me from buying this...and the house I want to buy.
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Originally Posted by hustler
(Post 917665)
Why must these be "press-on" rather than bolt on? That's the one thing keeping me from buying this...and the house I want to buy.
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Originally Posted by Savington
(Post 917668)
Because the bolts break. Why would you want to keep a failure point? Aren't you all about eliminating failure points?
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Originally Posted by hustler
(Post 917683)
Pressing the thing on and off sucks. That's a big deal to me.
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Originally Posted by fooger03
(Post 917661)
You using the stock pulley?
The stock pulley will slide right on/off by hand. The performance pulleys are a different story. I once had to remove a fly pulley from a Kawasaki 636, had a puller on it with breaker bars on the puller for leverage, and even then, I was putting everything I could muster into twisting that thing, when all of a sudden came a massively loud POP!! and everything in my hand just went loose. Scared the bejesus out of me. I was certain that I had broken something - either the pulley or the tool. The puller was sitting loose on the pulley, and I probably spent 10 seconds trying to find out what I had broke before I realized that the pulley had come nearly all the way off the crankshaft. Slid it the rest of the way off in quiet excitement. Has nothing to do with Miata pulleys, but it reminded me of that story. Haha I've done that sort of thing a few times. Scary as hell. Yes I have the factory pullies. So that solves that delima. I guess I'll need to ten the press tool when I get this in. Maybe a stupid question. Is this press/puller like one I can get from vatozone or Oreallys? |
Originally Posted by Faeflora
(Post 917686)
If I can do it you can too. And yes it sucks
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I guess I mis understood how the stock pulley/damper is setup. I understood it as, the inner race of the damper had the keyway, slid on the crank and was held to the crank with the big bolt. then the pulley bolted to the damper with the 3 small bolts. I could not separate they pulley from the damper after undoing the 3 small bolts when I did the timing belt on my car. It was easier just to undo the big bolt and pull off the whole shebang.
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Buyin the press tool might be a worthwhile investment. The tool might be heaped than a tow home depending on distance. Pain in the ass, but from what I can see the new pulley would be a better pulley for a stressed engine. Do you break timing belts often? I'm not a track guy.....yet..... But is there something I should prepare for? I assume frequent inspection and proper change interval would eliminate 95% of most peoples failures. Never known someone who broke one that actually paid attention to their cars. Usually it's the stereotypical chick that has 150,000 + on the stock belt.
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Originally Posted by TorqueZombie
(Post 917699)
Buyin the press tool might be a worthwhile investment. The tool might be heaped than a tow home depending on distance. Pain in the ass, but from what I can see the new pulley would be a better pulley for a stressed engine. Do you break timing belts often? I'm not a track guy.....yet..... But is there something I should prepare for? I assume frequent inspection and proper change interval would eliminate 95% of most peoples failures. Never known someone who broke one that actually paid attention to their cars. Usually it's the stereotypical chick that has 150,000 + on the stock belt.
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I had an OE belt come apart on me. Never had a problem with the kevlar belts.
Just keep the tools to press it on/off in the track spares box. With the right tools, it's not a big deal. |
The price difference between the regular belt and the blue is a no brainer. Even in my really broke moments after seperating I go the blue one. Well had the employee discount, that helped I admit. Oddly I know this probably doesn't matter, but I've had both belts new in myhands and the blue just feels better. Placebo effect?
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Originally Posted by Savington
(Post 917702)
I had an OE belt come apart on me. Never had a problem with the kevlar belts.
Just keep the tools to press it on/off in the track spares box. With the right tools, it's not a big deal. The blue belts are kevlar? Sweet. How many hours do you put on them for a track car vs. how many street miles? I've already thrown away two since I replace them every season. |
So damper puller grabs the aluminum part of the pulley and doesn't scar it up? I'd like details on that.
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So what about this $16 solution?
https://www.flyinmiata.com/index.php...umber=36-10408 |
Originally Posted by soviet
(Post 917816)
So what about this $16 solution?
https://www.flyinmiata.com/index.php...umber=36-10408 As for fixing the problem? No idea, I don't go fast enough. |
can someone tell me what tool I need to buy to remove and install this? Or will the hammer the bastard on with an impact work?
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if i buy the damper now and want to add the trigger wheel down the road can i?
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Originally Posted by Hot_Wheels
(Post 921917)
if i buy the damper now and want to add the trigger wheel down the road can i?
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from the pm they sent me they said it can be added later. I have the money to buy one but i need to pay my fabricator grrrr.
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Ordered one anyway :)
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