onefastmx5

Hello all, just picked up a 2002 Miata with this ECU in it. The car has a turbo kit and appears to be using an Adaptronic Select Mazda Miata NBB non-turbo ECU. I'm unfamiliar with this ECU and have spent about an hour googling and reading basic information on it. What specific software do I need to download? Car is running 10.5-11.5 at idle which is too rich IMO, also stalls out coming to a complete stop. Is there a good base map I can start with? Any advice and help would be appreciated.

timk

You need to download the software package from http://www.adaptronic.com.au/ which will include the docs and the tuning software called WARI.

triple88a

iTrader: (2)

Seeing that ur car is idling at 11ish afr i dont expect the rest of the tune to be any better, stay off the gas until you fix it. Where does it say "non turbo ecu"? The only difference between the 2 should be the map sensor.

onefastmx5

Does anyone have a decent turbo map .ecu file I can look over to compare to my current tune?

triple88a

iTrader: (2)

https://www.miataturbo.net/adaptroni...e2/#post824775

Please disregard any settings that has to do with idle valve control as i'm running on the stock ecu idle control

onefastmx5

Thanks, I'm trying to compare files and see changes that can help me get this car dialed in better. Stalling issue is fixed, but my idle AFR is still rich and if I pull fuel from the table in that zone, drive ability suffers. The MAP prediction table is different, I'll try those settings and see if my response improves. Also, my Asynch Gain is only 61% so that might need tweaking as well.

triple88a

iTrader: (2)

You shouldnt have issues with drivability everywhere else when u pull fuel only from the idle cells. What are you doing pulling the master fuel trim or what?

onefastmx5

I don't have issues in boost, AFRs are low 11s. I have a 'buck and surge' issue when using the throttle from 2-10% with the car warmed up, AFRs are leaner than 16.0. The value I'm changing for idle is at -21hg/1000rpm... when the car is fully warmed up it will run 11 AFR, but if I lower that fueling value by half, it will idle at 14.7 but my throttle response suffers horribly. Car has 600cc injectors.

triple88a

iTrader: (2)

You should be changing both, the 500 and the 1000 value for the idle loads in the tunning tab. You should not be changing anything but those 2-4 cells.

The easiest way to get it done is by slipping the clutch to get the engine to the correct load/correct rpm and then fix the afr. Changing the value at 1k will not influence your afr anywhere else on the map. I dont know what you're doing wrong but it makes no sense why by changing the fuel at 1k influences your drivability elsewhere on the map.

I'm trying to understand your issue here. Seeing that the engine idles at 800ish rpm, you should be changing both, the 1000 cell and the 500 cell, if your 500 cell is too rich, you can lean out the 1000 cell enough to where you're good at 800 rpm however then when the rpm goes to 1000 it will lean out again.

onefastmx5

I tried adjusting the adjacent cells and it was making a slight difference in idle AFR, but free rev response was suffering. Basically, if I lean out the 500s enough to get into the high 13 AFRs, when i rev the engine in neutral, the decel rpms dip reeeally bad on return to idle, like 400 rpm, then it bounces back up. Didn't try it in gear, I'll do that next. Thanks for your help!

triple88a

iTrader: (2)

When you are tunning make sure you're in the middle of the cell...within 50rpm and 2kpa load. Dont tune while you're in between the cells.

onefastmx5

I had a chance to compare our maps and there are a couple major differences that I'm curious about. My tune is set to 'open loop', yours is 'closed loop'. Would it benefit me to change that? Maybe it will use my target AFRs to fix my rich idle?

Also, my setup is similar to your signature block, except I have 600cc inj. In your tune you have it set to 240 in the Tuning Mode table, mine is 600... is that hurting me?

triple88a

iTrader: (2)

In that tune i believe i was still running the stock 240 injectors. You need to set the correct injector dead times, the engine cc and the injectors you have. Closed loop vs open loop. Closed loop is good for up to 99 or so kpa, just bellow atmo. What closed loop does is it uses the wideband data to adjust your afr to hit the target afrs. Reality is you'll never have perfect afr all the time while in cruise at all temps and this is where the closed loop will fix the minor change. ensure you check your settings so you're not running closed loop above 100kpa (0psi) Go to set closed loop parameters and set the minimum kpa to 25 and the max to 99. The max rpm to 5k and teh minimum water temp to 70c. Most people use metric when talking about adaptronic so all my values are using the metric scales (kpa, degrees C, etc)

FAB

iTrader: (4)

There are also some decent write ups done by BE. You can also scale your table to give you higher or lower resolution in the areas you need it most.

triple88a

iTrader: (2)

In areas where you need it most? No, the same everywhere. Meaning you cannot increase the resolution just at idle and keep a 500 rpm resolution everywhere else.