Adaptronic Install Instructions for an NB - Page 2 - Miata Turbo Forum - Boost cars, acquire cats.

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Old 03-21-2009, 12:30 PM   #21
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A couple of questions Stein:

1) Are you currently running the stock 99 injectors?

2) You don't use COP; right? I assume you're running wasted spark.

3) Do you have any plans to run injectors in sequential mode at any time?
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Old 03-21-2009, 04:12 PM   #22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Stein View Post
Here is the one I bought:

MegaSquirtPNP IAT Sensor Kit - Steel Bung DIYAutoTune.com

It is open element, came with enough wire to make the connection and the pins, plus a steel bung to weld into the charge pipe.

If you have aluminum pipes, you will need this one to get the aluminum bung to weld in:

MegaSquirtPNP IAT Sensor Kit - Aluminum Bung DIYAutoTune.com

It's cheaper than ordering parts separately.

Steel bung in steel pipes, aluminum bung in aluminum pipes.
Thanks - didn't see the kits before.
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Old 03-21-2009, 08:38 PM   #23
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Depending on your IC you can drill and tap a 3/8" NPT thread directly into the tank and screw the GM IAT sensor in there (on the exit side) and skip the bung entirely. You can see pictures of mine in the DIY IC link in my sig.
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Old 03-21-2009, 11:25 PM   #24
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rafa View Post
A couple of questions Stein:

1) Are you currently running the stock 99 injectors?

2) You don't use COP; right? I assume you're running wasted spark.

3) Do you have any plans to run injectors in sequential mode at any time?
1) Correct
2) Correct on both
3) Yes, they are ran sequentially.

Last edited by Stein; 03-22-2009 at 10:02 AM.
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Old 03-21-2009, 11:39 PM   #25
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Any known benefit to running the AEM WB via the serial output versus the 0-5v output that I normally use with megasquirt? (Not sure if you know this offhand.)
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Old 03-21-2009, 11:52 PM   #26
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cjernigan View Post
Any known benefit to running the AEM WB via the serial output versus the 0-5v output that I normally use with megasquirt? (Not sure if you know this offhand.)
From the installation manual:

The serial connection is preferable to an analogue connection because the ECU can determine if the sensor output is valid by other information in the serial packet (for example, sensor temperature), and default to the analogue input (or indicate an invalid reading) if no information is available. With an analogue input, there is not usually a way for the ECU to determine if the sensor is giving valid information or not.

Because of this I wired serially.
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Old 03-22-2009, 12:36 AM   #27
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That is reason enough for me to take my dash apart to run the wire. Thanks for the leg work holmes.
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Old 03-22-2009, 12:55 AM   #28
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it was enough for me to buy the upgrade for my super old techedge WBO2 to the proper serial comm scheme.
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Old 03-22-2009, 01:23 AM   #29
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Injectors are always ran in full sequential with the Adaptronic Rafa. Thats how they are wired from factory.
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Old 03-22-2009, 09:48 AM   #30
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TravisR View Post
Injectors are always ran in full sequential with the Adaptronic Rafa. Thats how they are wired from factory.
Thanks.

I'd like to reiterate my thanks to Stein for an outstanding writeup. I hope he won't mind assisting me and others when it comes time for us to make our own installs.
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Old 03-22-2009, 04:09 PM   #31
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I'm probably the last person you want to ask, but what I DO know I will gladly share. feel free to pm me any time
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Old 03-23-2009, 04:05 PM   #32
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I'm probably the last person you want to ask, but what I DO know I will gladly share. feel free to pm me any time
Don't say that... You guys are trailblazers. Anything the rest of us can learn from your collective experiences will only make it easier for the next install. As time goes by, I hope to see a repository of Miata specific information... You ran into some problems and may have mad some mistakes... So what! It's learning experience. I've been reading your threads just as intently as I've read Stein's threads. Just keep info coming guys. Once I get a window, I plan on getting mine installed and document it as best I can, but first I have to deal with some TPS/heat issues. And once the car stops throwing TPS codes, I'll get on with the install.
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Old 03-23-2009, 08:40 PM   #33
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Stein; 1 one quick question: I was rereading your install writeup and when you talk about the MAP sensor you don't specify whether you also bought it from Travis. I'd like to know if I will have to change the one I currently have (a 2 bar one from a Supra) or if I need to buy the 3 bar one.

If so; Travis: can I buy one from ebay? Which one?
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Old 03-23-2009, 10:55 PM   #34
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travis has good prices on the right MAP sensor. I got one with my kit.
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Old 03-24-2009, 09:18 AM   #35
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rafa View Post
Stein; 1 one quick question: I was rereading your install writeup and when you talk about the MAP sensor you don't specify whether you also bought it from Travis. I'd like to know if I will have to change the one I currently have (a 2 bar one from a Supra) or if I need to buy the 3 bar one.

If so; Travis: can I buy one from ebay? Which one?
Mine was from Travis. The only issue that I can think of using yours is getting the ADC settings right.

It is a GM 3 bar MAP sensor.
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Old 03-24-2009, 11:22 AM   #36
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rafa View Post
Stein; 1 one quick question: I was rereading your install writeup and when you talk about the MAP sensor you don't specify whether you also bought it from Travis. I'd like to know if I will have to change the one I currently have (a 2 bar one from a Supra) or if I need to buy the 3 bar one.

If so; Travis: can I buy one from ebay? Which one?
Any 5v map should work, but it needs to be linear. Its only a 2 point calibration in the Adaptronic software. The GM map is 99.8 percent linear I think I read somewhere which is why they use it.
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Old 03-25-2009, 08:02 PM   #37
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Ok guys... I'm not sure if this question should go here or in a new thread, but here it is. I see in the instructions that y'all are using a GM IAT sensor on your IC charge pipes. In my case (a supercharger) will I still need to use the GM unit or can/should I use the OEM unit that is mounted by the air filter (SC install). If I do need to use the GM unit, where should it be installed? After the SC in the cross over pipe to the intake?

I was also wondering if it wouldn't be easier to just get a 5/16" tee with a 1/4" coming off it so you would just have to run a 1/4" line to the GM MAP unit?
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Old 03-25-2009, 08:26 PM   #38
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I would definitely put the IAT after the SC in the cross over pipe. That way the temperature rise from the SC can be compensated for by the ECU.
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Old 03-26-2009, 12:42 AM   #39
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Quote:
Originally Posted by r2t2 View Post
Ok guys... I'm not sure if this question should go here or in a new thread, but here it is. I see in the instructions that y'all are using a GM IAT sensor on your IC charge pipes. In my case (a supercharger) will I still need to use the GM unit or can/should I use the OEM unit that is mounted by the air filter (SC install). If I do need to use the GM unit, where should it be installed? After the SC in the cross over pipe to the intake?

I was also wondering if it wouldn't be easier to just get a 5/16" tee with a 1/4" coming off it so you would just have to run a 1/4" line to the GM MAP unit?
What ZX-Tex said on the IAT. You will still build some heat with the SC.

The reason I went with a 5/16" x 3 tee is that I couldn't find one with two 5/16" and one 1/4" but I could find a 5/16" to 1/4" straight reducer so that's the way I went. If you can find a 5/16"x5/16"x1/4" go for it.
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Old 03-26-2009, 12:42 AM   #40
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Nevermind... See my next post...

Last edited by r2t2; 03-26-2009 at 12:50 AM. Reason: Hit submit when I should have hit preview.
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