Adaptronic Install Instructions for an NB - Page 3 - Miata Turbo Forum - Boost cars, acquire cats.

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Old 03-26-2009, 12:47 AM   #41
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I'm thinking of mounting the sensor on the crossover tube right at the SC. What do y'all think?

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Old 03-26-2009, 12:49 AM   #42
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Without an IC it won't matter much, but I'd still put it near the TB for best readings. If anything it will be away from the header to minimize heat soak when you are sitting still or in traffic. Moves it to the cold side of the engine bay.
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Old 03-26-2009, 12:56 AM   #43
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That's what I was kind of thinking. So then I wondering if the OEM IAT (which is mounted under the air filter) would suffice until I can spring for the IC.
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Old 03-26-2009, 01:10 AM   #44
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Originally Posted by r2t2 View Post
That's what I was kind of thinking. So then I wondering if the OEM IAT (which is mounted under the air filter) would suffice until I can spring for the IC.
When I said it wouldn't matter much, I meant the installation of the GM part in either your chosen location or mine. It think it is important to do it.
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Old 03-26-2009, 01:19 AM   #45
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That's what I was kind of thinking. So then I wondering if the OEM IAT (which is mounted under the air filter) would suffice until I can spring for the IC.
Superchargers have a large island that they are relatively equally efficient in. Your motor would just tune around this. Its a little different from turbo, because your supercharger pretty much produces the same amount of mass flow (heat which is density) at every single point. So while your temperature in one paticular load cell is 110*F and your ambient sensor is off in la la land at 70*F the Adaptronic will still tune the loaded cell for the correct AFR, and this will only change relative to ambient temperature conditions.

Short version, it will work semi ok.

What you can't do accurately is retard timing, or adjust fuel with temperature to make sure the engine is running safely. Then again, its less of an issue with a supercharger, its not exactly like your wastegate line could fail somehow and overboost... The supercharger is very predictable.
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Old 03-27-2009, 12:33 AM   #46
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Depending on your IC you can drill and tap a 3/8" NPT thread directly into the tank and screw the GM IAT sensor in there (on the exit side) and skip the bung entirely. You can see pictures of mine in the DIY IC link in my sig.
This worked really well. Hope it doesn't strip out when I fully seat it.

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Old 03-27-2009, 12:40 AM   #47
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Looks good. I need to weld on my bung and connect mine damnit....Working overtime this past week cant get **** done on the car
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Old 03-27-2009, 01:16 AM   #48
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This worked really well. Hope it doesn't strip out when I fully seat it.
It should be fine. Just use some sealant on it (O2 sensor safe) and do NOT crank it down really tight like one normally would with a NPT fitting. It will seal just fine. Besides, as long as the sensor does not blow out (mine has not) even a tiny little pinhole leak (if any) will not hurt anything. It is nothing compared to the total flow.
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Old 03-28-2009, 07:52 PM   #49
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How did you install your harness without putting a lot of stress on the wires? Doesn't seem like there's enough room.

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Old 03-28-2009, 11:39 PM   #50
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When I said it wouldn't matter much, I meant the installation of the GM part in either your chosen location or mine. It think it is important to do it.
OK... You made a believer of me. I installed the GM IAT on my crossover tube just forward of the intake manifold. Where Moss/JS had me mount the OEM IAT (under the air filter) I was getting "intake air" temps from the low 40's to the low 100's. With GM unit aft of the SC my true intake air temps range (at operating temps) from the 130's to upper 190's. I'd say that makes a good case for the TDR intercooler!


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How did you install your harness without putting a lot of stress on the wires? Doesn't seem like there's enough room.
Dude, I have a harness on the PC Proo/Timing Module that suffered the same issue. If you follow the ECU wiring harness for the large and (I'm pretty sure) the small plugs, you'll find that they are attached to a point further up under the dash with (orange in my case) electrical tape. Cut one or bothe of the pieces of tape and that will give you a bit more harness to work with. In my case it made a substantial difference.
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Old 03-29-2009, 03:38 PM   #51
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Originally Posted by r2t2 View Post
Dude, I have a harness on the PC Proo/Timing Module that suffered the same issue. If you follow the ECU wiring harness for the large and (I'm pretty sure) the small plugs, you'll find that they are attached to a point further up under the dash with (orange in my case) electrical tape. Cut one or bothe of the pieces of tape and that will give you a bit more harness to work with. In my case it made a substantial difference.
That helped some. I also remounted the oem ecu to gain some more room.

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Old 03-29-2009, 06:11 PM   #52
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^^^ I do not like the jumper board arrangement at all. It was a real PIA to make space, get it into position, and get the connectors plugged in. I have an extra set of stock stuff on the clutch pedal between the bracket and the stock ECU that leaves little room there. I would much prefer a boomslang style harness like the MS uses.

I got this one in and it works, but damn....
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Old 03-29-2009, 06:26 PM   #53
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I'm working on my own harnesses instead of the Adaptronic supplied versions. I don't know why they went with the circuit boards, but if you have extra equipment already there, the board is not going to quite fit without a fight. Also remember, these guys drive their cars on the wrong side of the road. So everything is in different positions that are evidently alot easier to get fit into.
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Old 03-29-2009, 06:33 PM   #54
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I'm working on my own harnesses instead of the Adaptronic supplied versions.
Are you? Will you have one for a 96?
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Old 03-29-2009, 06:49 PM   #55
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If you would be willing to wait, I'll do your year for your first. Probably take me a couple weeks to do. I'm not sure where your time line is.
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Old 03-29-2009, 07:12 PM   #56
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i'm making my own too. I think the circuit board simply makes it easier to break out the ECU harness connector leads.

The hydra uses a boomslang-like harness. I haven't decided which way i'm going. So far I just have 12" of wire hanging off the plugs. and another 18 inches hanging off the adaptronic connectors.

the passthru wiring is a no-brainer, as is the direct to adaptronic wires, but the ones I may want to switch around later may need some other solution. I want them so I can add and remove connections without shortening a wire each time. I could probably use terminal blocks but I'm not sure they're reliable enough.
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Old 03-29-2009, 07:19 PM   #57
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Where do you guys get all the stock ECU connectors, and the males?
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Old 03-29-2009, 07:21 PM   #58
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Hardware install's done. Just need to buy a cable for the laptop.

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Old 03-29-2009, 08:39 PM   #59
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Can you get me the measurements off that little bracket you made? I'll see if I can manufacture those
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Old 03-29-2009, 09:06 PM   #60
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If you would be willing to wait, I'll do your year for your first. Probably take me a couple weeks to do. I'm not sure where your time line is.
I'm still haggling with the AEM. I have to wait anyways so my time line is the one you say.

I don't think the folks from Adaptronic Australia have it already made either.
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