Rafa

iTrader: (22)

Ismael; are the ignitors in your car different than the ones in mine?

I ask because I have an extra set I bought for my car but never used here. If they fit your car, I could send those to you.

No te olvides que este fin de semana es "Memorial Day" en USA. No se cuanta gente pueda ayudarte hasta el martes que viene.

ismael_pt

iTrader: (1)

They are completely different, I'm sure. Muchas gracias igualmente, Rafa.

I'm going to run the car with the stock ecu in order to check the ignitors.

Se notará que este fin de semana va a estar esto vacio, pero seguire haciendo pruebas, creo que estoy cerca de lograr arrancar.

Rafa

iTrader: (22)

Eso sería un éxito!

BTW, I like your idea about starting the car with the stock ECU. We'll know for sure if the ignitors work or not.

ismael_pt

iTrader: (1)

Good news, the ignitors are ok. The car is running now with the stock ecu... start at first try.

I noticed a difference, with the stock ecu I can hear the fuel pump when I turn the key on, but with the adaptronic plugged i can't hear this sound.

Rafa

iTrader: (22)

Good to hear!

I guess you're first order of business is to look for the fuel pump connection in the Adaptronic.

Vamos, que quiero oir que funciona e impresiones de como se sienten esos caballos extras!

ismael_pt

iTrader: (1)

After running the car with the stock ecu during 3-4 minutes, I plugged back the adaptronic: The car started, make a horrible sound and died again. This is the log:




Then my MAP reading started to fail. Only shows values of 98-104 kPa when cranking.

Could be related to a bad calibration? In the log, the car dies when the reading of MAP reach the lower value in the calibration (20 kPa, it's a MPX4250)

Also the immobilizer light in the dashboard is blinking after a cranking attempt.

TurboRoach

iTrader: (3)

I'm using the same sensor with:
15 kPa - 103 ADC
250 kPa - 3475 ADC

Your's should be similar. My car idles ~30kPa and hits ~98-100kPa at WOT.

15ms seems like a lot of fuel during cranking. Can you smell gas? My cranking fuel is closer to 9ms and I can still smell a little fuel. (1.6 injectors) Are you still using the stock injectors?

Rafa

iTrader: (22)

Roach, thanks for the help. I think he's running 440cc injectors.

y8s

iTrader: (8)

~100kpa while cranking is normal. it's atmospheric pressure because the engine isn't running.

TurboRoach

iTrader: (3)

If thats the case the cranking fuel should be about half that.

ismael_pt

iTrader: (1)

Thank you guys for the help.

I'm running stock injectors for now. My cranking fuel values are the the default in the NBB basemap, the 15ms corresponds to the peak rpm value reached in the log.

I switched fuel pump control to the Adaptronic and now i can hear the fuel pump but the car still don't start.

Could someone using GM open IAT post his calibration? I think my calibration sucks.

Could be something related to the immobilizer the reason my car doesn't start? The light in the dash blinks after cranking.

TravisR

iTrader: (9)

I'm not sure what you have to do to defeat the immobilizer on the NB or NBB. I'm sure thats causing the start problem.

y8s

iTrader: (8)

i dont believe the immobilizer does anything more complicated than prevent cranking, spark, or fuel and those are all controlled by the adaptronic.

what size injectors are you running and what are your cranking fuel falues? do you smell fuel after cranking a while?

TravisR

iTrader: (9)

Erraahhhh, well there must be a seperate control box for it, and maybe a seperate interface with crank/fuel/spark as it is illuminating his dash. I am not fully aware of the anti-theft devices on the car though.

ismael_pt

iTrader: (1)

Thank you y8s and Travis, I replace connections for the immobilizer and the car started but make an annoying sound that I belive it come from the AC, I wired the control of the AC directly to the stock ecu, but if I turn it on, the air is not cold, maybe i need to wire the AC to the adaptronic? The only things that are not controled by the adaptronic right now are the AC, PSP and the fans.

TravisR

iTrader: (9)

Its more then likely the cycle rate on your IAC valve. Change it around to different frequencies until it goes away.

ismael_pt

iTrader: (1)

Travis, the noise come from the other side of the motor, btw i'll try to change the frequency. The noise is very very loud, and the ac don't work. Also the alternator is not charging the battery, all the possible problems are happening to me , but all is caused by my harness.

ismael_pt

iTrader: (1)

Incredible! the noise is gone changing the frequency.

Now I have to find the problem with the battery voltage: Is throwing 11,6-11,8 volts when the car is running and if I restart the car after a 5 minutes of running, the battery is discharged.

Should I see 14 volts when the car is running, true?

TravisR

iTrader: (9)

Yea you should see 14 volts. This is something the Adaptronic isn't really setup to do. It is a main reason why they wanted to do a parallel harness instead of a standalone harness. There are aftermarket boxes that will control the alternator floating around in the megasquirt threads, or you could swap in an early model alternator that doesn't require the "fancy" controls.

Rafa

iTrader: (22)

Travis, working on a holiday, eh? Very nice of you

Ismael: what Travis is saying has been discussed many times. If you try to go standalone you have to get an NA alternator to make it work. I don't think it's going to be simple for you to do so. I suggest you run it in parallel.