ismael_pt Adaptronic installation (DIY harness) - Page 4 - Miata Turbo Forum - Boost cars, acquire cats.

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Old 05-25-2009, 11:27 AM   #61
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Rafa, it's a parallel installation. The alternator controlled by the stock ecu.

The AC does not work either, and all of these functions are wired directly to the stock ecu. I have a hypothesis of what is going on: CKP and CAS wires are disconnected from the stock ecu, only the adaptronic is reading the CKP and CAS signals, the tachometer in the dash don't work, probably because it's not receiving signal from CKP or CAS. Maybe the problem is that the stock ecu don't interact with the alternator until it sees a minimal amount of rpm.

Could someone with more knowledge than me confirm that?
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Old 05-25-2009, 04:49 PM   #62
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According to the workshopmanual the alternator is controled bij CKP sensor.
CKP = CranK Position

The ecu gives the alternator a voltage based on the engine rpms to keep the output voltage of the alternator above the 12,5V
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Old 05-25-2009, 05:17 PM   #63
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Thank you martijn, this will solve the problem.

The biggest problem now are 3 holes in my custom exhaust manifold, problems are never going to finish
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Old 05-28-2009, 09:59 AM   #64
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I have just repaired my exhaust manifold and expect it won't crack again.

Still can't share CKP and CAS signal between the two ecus I tried with and without diodes, re-do the connections, re-check the connections, I play with triggers setup... but nothing works.

Any ideas?
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Old 05-28-2009, 04:22 PM   #65
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Use BAT54S for your diode.
Its an double zenerdiode.

Basically the sensors are not strong enough to give a signal to both ecu's
By using a zenerdiode the signal is topped down with the result that there is less power assumption.
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Old 05-28-2009, 04:30 PM   #66
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Someone has the answers! A zener diode huh? Seems these permit back current easier then a standard diode. Could you explain this a little more?
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Old 05-28-2009, 04:42 PM   #67
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1 I have the drawing of my loom.
2 I'm an electronics guy, so reading the drawing is easy for me.

For power ==> voltage x current = power.
Think in a sinus shipe. Using a zenerdiode has the result that the diode let trough the sinusshape but with a slightly longer zero time. result is that the shape of the signal is modified. the signal is smaller. a smaller signal is a smaller voltage. Look to the formula above ==> with a smaller voltage there is less power usage.
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Old 05-28-2009, 04:52 PM   #68
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I purchased and installed BAT85 (the same that y8s is using) and now the two ecus have signal.

The car runs, with the throttle open, I need to set the idle parameters. With the default map the min DC for the idle valve is 60, but if I lift the throttle the car dies.
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Old 05-28-2009, 04:54 PM   #69
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I see thats interesting! Thanks for shedding some light on those diodes.
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Old 05-28-2009, 05:05 PM   #70
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Ismael:
You have idle fuel.
You dont have working idle valve, or complete wrong settings.

What is your min and max idle value?
and is your aux out set to PWM with frequency 1kHz?
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Old 05-28-2009, 06:21 PM   #71
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ismael_pt View Post
I purchased and installed BAT85 (the same that y8s is using) and now the two ecus have signal.

The car runs, with the throttle open, I need to set the idle parameters. With the default map the min DC for the idle valve is 60, but if I lift the throttle the car dies.
y8s wins again!

check idle Air/fuel ratio too. start in the high 13s for stability. your idle settings should have max authority set from 10-15 to about 85-90.
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Old 05-28-2009, 06:42 PM   #72
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Quote:
Originally Posted by y8s View Post
y8s wins again!

check idle Air/fuel ratio too. start in the high 13s for stability. your idle settings should have max authority set from 10-15 to about 85-90.
I tried all kind of configurations and the idle valve doesn't seem to change. It does the same at whatever value is changed.

The Adaptronic is connected to the idle valve in this way:

2Q to J4-1 (Aux. out 1 in the adaptronic)

2P directly to the stock ecu

Should they be wired that way, right?
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Old 05-28-2009, 06:52 PM   #73
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ismael_pt View Post
I tried all kind of configurations and the idle valve doesn't seem to change. It does the same at whatever value is changed.

The Adaptronic is connected to the idle valve in this way:

2Q to J4-1 (Aux. out 1 in the adaptronic)

2P directly to the stock ecu

Should they be wired that way, right?
2Q to J2-1 might work MUCH MUCH better..... check the diagram again. you're using the ign3/tacho output J4-1.
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Old 05-28-2009, 07:00 PM   #74
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Quote:
Originally Posted by y8s View Post
2Q to J2-1 might work MUCH MUCH better..... check the diagram again. you're using the ign3/tacho output J4-1.
It's in J2-1, the NBB diagram names it as J4

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Old 05-28-2009, 10:04 PM   #75
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oh
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Old 05-29-2009, 03:13 AM   #76
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Connect 2P to J3-1 (PWR)
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Old 05-29-2009, 12:38 PM   #77
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update (and request of help):

Today the idle valve has started to work, but only in 100hz or lower values and making the annoying noise. Any higher value don't hold the idle speed and the car dies.

Also the CLT signal is noisy, something similar to this https://www.miataturbo.net/forum/t33414/

Somebody knows where is the ground wire of the CLT located in the 01+?

The IAT sensor (GM) is reading 3300+- ADC for a ambient temperature of 25º C, I think this is not normal. Maybe is related to the CLT noise problem.

The car start after a few attempts and only if I press the throttle while cranking. Could you guys take a look at my cranking fuel numbers?
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Old 05-29-2009, 05:01 PM   #78
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idle problem solved: min. 68 max. 100 DC @ 500hz, don't make noise and reach the target idle speed of 1000 rpm.

I also located and disconnected the chassis ground wire for the CLT, but it's still fluctuating.

Remaining problems: IAT calibration, CLT signal and cranking fuel (stock 1.8 01+ injectors)
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Old 05-29-2009, 07:45 PM   #79
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ismael_pt View Post
idle problem solved: min. 68 max. 100 DC @ 500hz, don't make noise and reach the target idle speed of 1000 rpm.

I also located and disconnected the chassis ground wire for the CLT, but it's still fluctuating.

Remaining problems: IAT calibration, CLT signal and cranking fuel (stock 1.8 01+ injectors)
I'm glad to see some progress Ismael.

I still don't understand why you didn't take this opportunity to put in the 440cc injectors. Habría sido un solo coñazo.
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